What kind of grease in a semi auto

[Atrain1]

I got tired of spending 9 bucks on a tube of gun grease that gets used up every 3 times I go shooting. Has any one used wheel bearing grease that is what I am using now aside from the smell it seems to work great. I just wanted to know what types of grease other people use thanks.

[275RLTW]

Millcom TW-25B

[sneakerd]

I use GI Rifle Grease, made by the BG&O Co back in the 60's. It is expensive, you can get it in 1 lb cans. Same stuff that goes in the little pot in a Garand or M1A or AR buttstock kit. Lasts a long time, because you really don't need to use much. It can be found on ebay and sometimes on GB, but right now only in the little buttstock grease pots. You sometimes see it at gun shows. My can is dated 10/63. I keep it out on my workbench and have had this can for about 4-5 years, I have half left. It's an olive steel can- looks like a can of paint.

[ray1970]

I got tired of spending 9 bucks on a tube of gun grease that gets used up every 3 times I go shooting. Has any one used wheel bearing grease that is what I am using now aside from the smell it seems to work great. I just wanted to know what types of grease other people use thanks.

How much grease are you using? I have never needed more than a few small drops on any of my handguns and not much more than that on my rifles. A one ounce tube of Tetra gun grease usually lasts me quite a while and only costs about $5.

[mcantar18c]

I got tired of spending 9 bucks on a tube of gun grease that gets used up every 3 times I go shooting. Has any one used wheel bearing grease that is what I am using now aside from the smell it seems to work great. I just wanted to know what types of grease other people use thanks.

Holy chit we agree on something.
Semi auto or not... if it slides back and forth, both the part and what it slides in get a light coat, just enough to lubricate and not smother it, of wheel bearing grease (like the bolt on my lever action and the track in the receiver it slides in), and if it rotates then it gets oiled with ATF or 15W40 motor oil (bolt in a bolt action, trigger assemblies, etc.).
Works just fine.

ETA: Ok, re-read that quote.... why/how the hell are you going through a tube of any gun care product in 3 shoots?

[Scanker19]

I use GI Rifle Grease, made by the BG&O Co back in the 60's. It is expensive, you can get it in 1 lb cans. Same stuff that goes in the little pot in a Garand or M1A or AR buttstock kit. Lasts a long time, because you really don't need to use much. It can be found on ebay and sometimes on GB, but right now only in the little buttstock grease pots. You sometimes see it at gun shows. My can is dated 10/63. I keep it out on my workbench and have had this can for about 4-5 years, I have half left. It's an olive steel can- looks like a can of paint.

Word up! That's all that i use.

[Atrain1]

Holy chit we agree on something.
Semi auto or not... if it slides back and forth, both the part and what it slides in get a light coat, just enough to lubricate and not smother it, of wheel bearing grease (like the bolt on my lever action and the track in the receiver it slides in), and if it rotates then it gets oiled with ATF or 15W40 motor oil (bolt in a bolt action, trigger assemblies, etc.).
Works just fine.

ETA: Ok, re-read that quote.... why/how the hell are you going through a tube of any gun care product in 3 shoots? I will try the 15w40 I use 10w40 I dont use to much when I put the gun back together I dont have hardly any to wipe off, I just take out 7 to 8 guns at a time, that is why I use so much grease. Do you pick it up from part stores? I got the valvoline wheel bearing grease it smells like gear oil but seems to work great, I am just not sure if I should have got the synthetic thats what I was going to go with.

[Inconel710]

Another TW-25B user here. One little tube has been enough for two years of shooting and plenty left. I think you're using too much, cleaning too much, or shooting too much! [AR15]

[sneakerd]

I also use a lot of WD40 and plenty of regular household 3 in 1 oil on my guns. I use Hoppes #9 for solvent.

[Atrain1]

Another TW-25B user here. One little tube has been enough for two years of shooting and plenty left. I think you're using too much, cleaning too much, or shooting too much! [AR15] I shoot ALOT is there a such thing as shooting to much. The grease I was using came in a really small tube I just apply a light layer on the slide and frame and oil the parts I cant grease but like I said I just take out alot of guns and I clean them and reloob them even if I dont take them out. I try and take very good care of my guns, I heard alot of people use Harley grease, thats what gave me the idea for bearing grease. I put 2000 rounds through my first pt1911 and I traded it for a 1980 Trans Am the guy asked me if I was sure if I ever fired it, so I dont think I am doing anything wrong but at that time I was using this expisive grease, I forget what it is but the guy at the store and my friend who is a Kimber fanatic, named his kid Kimber, told me that is all he used so that was what I went with. Now I figure bearing grease will work just the same.

[mcantar18c]

I will try the 15w40 I use 10w40 I dont use to much when I put the gun back together I dont have hardly any to wipe off, I just take out 7 to 8 guns at a time, that is why I use so much grease. Do you pick it up from part stores? I got the valvoline wheel bearing grease it smells like gear oil but seems to work great, I am just not sure if I should have got the synthetic thats what I was going to go with.

Only reason I use 15W40 is cause I have 6+ gallons of it in my garage at any given time. It works pretty well. No preference between that and ATF, the one closest to my hand at the time is what gets used.
The grease I use is MAG-1 High-Temp Disc Brake Wheel Bearing Grease... according to the label. Also says "Great for Auto, Farm, or Industrial Use." I got it at Checker or Orielley or whatever you wanna call it. Was around $6 for a 1lb container. You don't need much to apply a good coating and it lasts a while before it gets very dirty... I've used maybe 1/10th of it in 9 months with lots of rounds down between lots of guns. It smells kinda funky but not like gear oil... not nearly as bad as gear oil.

[Atrain1]

Only reason I use 15W40 is cause I have 6+ gallons of it in my garage at any given time. It works pretty well. No preference between that and ATF, the one closest to my hand at the time is what gets used.
The grease I use is MAG-1 High-Temp Disc Brake Wheel Bearing Grease... according to the label. Also says "Great for Auto, Farm, or Industrial Use." I got it at Checker or Orielley or whatever you wanna call it. Was around $6 for a 1lb container. You don't need much to apply a good coating and it lasts a while before it gets very dirty... I've used maybe 1/10th of it in 9 months with lots of rounds down between lots of guns. It smells kinda funky but not like gear oil... not nearly as bad as gear oil. This is not as bad at all, like you said kind of funky it is like a faint smell of used gear oil, but not near as bad, if it was I think my safe would smell like it and it does not. I am not to worried about the smell as long as it does its job. Now some might call it to much but if I fire one shot I will field strip it and clean it, I know people that will fire up to 20 rounds before cleaning there gun. One other thing is I have cleaned and cleaned the bore of my 1911 and it still looks like a copper color on the rifiling, does anyone else have this problem, and it is only when you look at it a certin way.

[mcantar18c]

This is not as bad at all, like you said kind of funky it is like a faint smell of used gear oil, but not near as bad, if it was I think my safe would smell like it and it does not. I am not to worried about the smell as long as it does its job. Now some might call it to much but if I fire one shot I will field strip it and clean it, I know people that will fire up to 20 rounds before cleaning there gun. One other thing is I have cleaned and cleaned the bore of my 1911 and it still looks like a copper color on the rifiling, does anyone else have this problem, and it is only when you look at it a certin way.

You shouldn't clean it that much. A little bit of fouling in the barrel actually helps with the gas seal. Cleaning too much is just as bad as not cleaning enough... excess cleaning = excess wear.

[Bailey Guns]

Huh...

I just put a few drops of whatever oil I happen to have around. It's always seemed to work fine.

[Atrain1]

You shouldn't clean it that much. A little bit of fouling in the barrel actually helps with the gas seal. Cleaning too much is just as bad as not cleaning enough... excess cleaning = excess wear. I did not know that my uncle was an NRA fanatic and he was very anal about cleaning his guns, I spent alot of time with him as a kid he taught me alot about guns. I thought it was out of the norm for my friends to not clean there gun after 1 round much less 20. Also does any one know how to get light scratches out of a highly polished nickle 1911, it is my collector it has never been fired and I want to keep it that way. Also if any one has any helpful info on gun cleaning that would be great, like I said I had no idea you could clean them to much thanks.

[tactuppernut]

I sat behind behind ATRAIN in high school. He used to eat glue and erasers. I bet I know where the grease is REALLY going.
Seriously though, bearing grease is perfect! Synthetic is best, as it will retain proper viscosity through a much wider range of temperatures, including hi heat from friction. However, that is a non-issue with 1-20 rounds. As long as you stay away from range below 10 deg. F or over 130 deg. F in full sun, the petrol based works the same. My $9 syringe applicator is currently full of syn. Valvoline, after adding leftover dribble from used can of BG motor oil additive (MOA) and mixing on flat surface with a putty knife. As to cleaning firearms after minimal useage, I agree with you. I'm anal about it too. Stay away from brass brushes or anything abrasive when cleaning after minimal usage and your lans and grooves will last forever. I use oversized blue paper shop towel balls(less abrasive than most kitchen paper towels) with only synthetic oil (no solvent)and push through, re-folding to expose clean areas each time until bore is clean. I only use solvent with bore brush, and I only use bore brush after heavy usage.
Back in the 70's (when firearms were all steel), WD-40 was commonly used. Most P.D. armorers even recommended it. Soon they learned that penetrating oil did just that, right into the ammo (especially revolvers). Not a good idea. Viscosity is too low. Compare it to Hoppe's, which is also thin when compared to a modern synthetic gun oil. Motor oils (especially multi-weights 10w-30 and up) work well too. If you're a movie buff, the assassin sitting down the bar from you will think you smell like a mechanic as opposed to a gun toting threat. HA-HA! Still smells better than G96!

[Atrain1]

I sat behind behind ATRAIN in high school. He used to eat glue and erasers. I bet I know where the grease is REALLY going.
Seriously though, bearing grease is perfect! Synthetic is best, as it will retain proper viscosity through a much wider range of temperatures, including hi heat from friction. However, that is a non-issue with 1-20 rounds. As long as you stay away from range below 10 deg. F or over 130 deg. F in full sun, the petrol based works the same. My $9 syringe applicator is currently full of syn. Valvoline, after adding leftover dribble from used can of BG motor oil additive (MOA) and mixing on flat surface with a putty knife. As to cleaning firearms after minimal useage, I agree with you. I'm anal about it too. Stay away from brass brushes or anything abrasive when cleaning after minimal usage and your lans and grooves will last forever. I use oversized blue paper shop towel balls(less abrasive than most kitchen paper towels) with only synthetic oil (no solvent)and push through, re-folding to expose clean areas each time until bore is clean. I only use solvent with bore brush, and I only use bore brush after heavy usage.
Back in the 70's (when firearms were all steel), WD-40 was commonly used. Most P.D. armorers even recommended it. Soon they learned that penetrating oil did just that, right into the ammo (especially revolvers). Not a good idea. Viscosity is too low. Compare it to Hoppe's, which is also thin when compared to a modern synthetic gun oil. Motor oils (especially multi-weights 10w-30 and up) work well too. If you're a movie buff, the assassin sitting down the bar from you will think you smell like a mechanic as opposed to a gun toting threat. HA-HA! Still smells better than G96!Hey thats not true the eracers tasted funny i just liked the glue lol. I only use rem oil to clean them I found it works very good and I cannot find anything other than brass, I really dont like using them were did you get your stuff you use?

[Zundfolge]

I dunno why folk agonize over this kinda stuff ... I've never had any problems with Hoppes #9 and Rem Oil.


Just keep in mind that too much lube can gum up the works and become a medium for abrasives to collect in.

[Great-Kazoo]

I got tired of spending 9 bucks on a tube of gun grease that gets used up every 3 times I go shooting. Has any one used wheel bearing grease that is what I am using now aside from the smell it seems to work great. I just wanted to know what types of grease other people use thanks.

wait until it is near freezing and see how a greased firearm performs. I am sure you are not over doing it, however grease has a tendency to become somewhat thicker as the temp drops. YMMV

i use synthetic motor oil, which is what a lot "firearm high tech" oil is compromised of.
been using it for years w/out any issues. the only time i used any kind of grease was on my Garands and M-1A's. Then it was Honda 90 Moly grease. If it works for you, rock n roll.

[SouthPaw]

Lubriplate motor assembly grease. Can be found at almost any auto parts store for about $7 a tube. Seems to work very well in my guns and holds up to temp very well.

[tactuppernut]

Just like Zundfolge said, no issues w/these "made for" products at all. I mainly use lower viscosity oils too. For the weapons I own currently, grease is used sparingly on AR bolt carrier guides, guides on pump action shotgun bolt, 10/22 bolt (summer only), and any older,all steel auto. pistols slide guide in summer before heading to range, to name several examples, but never poly. pistols(prefer a good metal polish and oil VERY sparingly). All lubricants perform their job. I usually use grease before heavy usage (except pumps & AR carrier,which are always greased).
As for the BG MOA (which I've used in every car for the last 20 years), it's hands down, the BEST oil additive on market, period. Remember, base petroleum oil stock has a viscosity similar to that of water. Every single lubricating product on market has additives, that's what gives each blend its' unique properties. MOA is just a BETTER additive, primarily due to zinc. Polished metal under a microscope is not smooth, looks more like triangular pointed barbed wire bunched together, with all those triangles pointing up. Zinc bends them over, decreasing friction incredibly well. Truth is, pissing into your engine's crankcase or tube of grease works just as well (zinc is in urine),except of course for moisture. BG makes other products too, my best examples would be the c-6 auto tranny in an old Bronco I own. 230,000 miles, 120,000 of them on 35"s and stock gears, never been re-built. 302 in a Lincoln Mrk.VII, 400,000 miles,never been re-built.
I blend MOA into a "made for" synthetic gun oil as well, about 2 parts MOA to 1 part oil, and store/use from a needlepoint applicator bottle, and it's not only used on firearms. It will make high friction areas last longer than without. As to where, I can only find at NAPA's, certain Honda & Toyota dealerships, and several independant service/repair shops. A can runs about $12. I buy it for my car and use leftover dribble to ad to gun oils, a little goes a long way. BG reps used to demonstrate effectiveness of product with a motorized flywheel spinning through reg. oil. On top was a fulcrum lever that put pressure onto clamped tapered bearing rubbing lubed flywheel. One would apply increasing pressure onto lever until smoke and sparks erupted, and hold that pressure. Then the BG man would put 1 drop of MOA into oil catch pan, and voila, no more smoke/sparks. I've used religiously since seeing (by the way, I was person on fulcrum lever that day).

[ChadAmberg]

The biggest problem with a lot of the grease applicators is the waste due to how the plunger works. It takes a very light touch.
When I apply grease I use about 3x what I should only because it won't stop coming out. I then take it off with a tooth pick and apply it to several other guns.

[tactuppernut]

To clarify my brass brush babble, I was attempting to point out that when ATRAIN only runs 1-20 rounds through, a brass brush down the bore shouldn't be necessary(except those friggin' scatterguns). Using brass brushes is fine when required. They are all that I can find as well. I was countering the suggestion to leave firearms dirty, due to excessive wear from excessive cleaning, as I assumed the suggestion was based upon wear caused by the brush(couldn't think of anything else that causes wear during cleaning).
To Chad, I initially had same problem w/new applicator. What worked for me was getting a thumb back under plunger to relieve pressure before reaching end of service area. This minor annoyance increased after re-filling, due to trapped air between plunger face & grease. Running narrow gauge wire through tip to plunger in order to create channel to bleed air from applicator worked. If you're dexterity challenged, try throwing tube in the freezer for 20 minutes before using.

ATRAIN1, get some more threads started man, this shits kinda' fun!

[Atrain1]

To clarify my brass brush babble, I was attempting to point out that when ATRAIN only runs 1-20 rounds through, a brass brush down the bore shouldn't be necessary(except those friggin' scatterguns). Using brass brushes is fine when required. They are all that I can find as well. I was countering the suggestion to leave firearms dirty, due to excessive wear from excessive cleaning, as I assumed the suggestion was based upon wear caused by the brush(couldn't think of anything else that causes wear during cleaning).
To Chad, I initially had same problem w/new applicator. What worked for me was getting a thumb back under plunger to relieve pressure before reaching end of service area. This minor annoyance increased after re-filling, due to trapped air between plunger face & grease. Running narrow gauge wire through tip to plunger in order to create channel to bleed air from applicator worked. If you're dexterity challenged, try throwing tube in the freezer for 20 minutes before using.

ATRAIN1, get some more threads started man, this shits kinda' fun! I only use brass if I fire a few hundred rounds through my gun, if only a couple I will use the brush that came with the firearm. The funny thing was some one said on the 45 vs 9mm that they did not see it going past half a page what is it up to now like 14, I quit posting them cause I every one takes it to seriously, some things I am serious about like the grease post I really wanted some info, I also wanted to ask how many rounds do you get out of using oil before having to clean or add more oil. When i go out I shoot about 300 to 550 rounds.

[tactuppernut]

I only use brass if I fire a few hundred rounds through my gun, if only a couple I will use the brush that came with the firearm. The funny thing was some one said on the 45 vs 9mm that they did not see it going past half a page what is it up to now like 14, I quit posting them cause I every one takes it to seriously, some things I am serious about like the grease post I really wanted some info, I also wanted to ask how many rounds do you get out of using oil before having to clean or add more oil. When i go out I shoot about 300 to 550 rounds.
Ya' know old saying about opinions and assholes?

[Atrain1]

Ya' know old saying about opinions and assholes? Yeah everybody has one I just dont understand why people are so serious on here I personally think it is kind of funny, but I have come across some pretty cool people to so I find it kind of interesting to see other peoples point of view.

[Guylee]

I only use brass if I fire a few hundred rounds through my gun, if only a couple I will use the brush that came with the firearm. The funny thing was some one said on the 45 vs 9mm that they did not see it going past half a page what is it up to now like 14, I quit posting them cause I every one takes it to seriously, some things I am serious about like the grease post I really wanted some info, I also wanted to ask how many rounds do you get out of using oil before having to clean or add more oil. When i go out I shoot about 300 to 550 rounds.

I remember that thread. Whoever said it was being completely sarcastic...45 vs. 9mm is like Ford vs. Chevy...

[Atrain1]

I remember that thread. Whoever said it was being completely sarcastic...45 vs. 9mm is like Ford vs. Chevy...Chevy all my life LOL I have a 79 Cutlass with a 388 stroker its my race/show car

[leatherneck448]

most of the time, the cleaning procedure I use is this...

Put Hoppes #9 on a toothbrush, use said toothbrush to scrub everything down good, then spray it all down with carb cleaner, blow excess off with compressed air, run a patch down the barrel (one wet, one dry), coat w/ rem oil, and wipe off excess. thats it.

for lube, It really depends on the gun, but lubriplate (the stuff that you find in the tiny jars with yellow lids in M1 stocks) and mil-comm TW25 work best for me. The little 1/2 oz tubes of mil comm are perfect for gun case or a range bag, and a few drops goes a LONG way.

hope this helped,
Kenny

[jwhittin]

And another TW-25B user here. Great stuff. A little dab will do. Just gotta put it in all the right places!

[kidicarus13]

This thread was almost dead for one full year before being brought back to life. AWESOME

[spyder]

In some of my guns I use Microlon, and Boeshield over the top of it. Never had any problems what so ever. On others, I use bug juice over the top of the other two. Bug juice is slick, nasty stuff... I doesn't come off your hands no matter how much you wipe and your fingers just stay slick, it's annoying. You have to use Dawn to get it off. [Beer] They make it at the third year facility here at the gunsmithing college. There are lots of different mixtures of it, but the most common is:

One bottle of original STP
One seven ounce jar of Hoppe's No. 9
One quart of ATF (brand didn't matter)
Two quarts synthetic motor oil (don't know what kind, or weight but it didn't matter from the sounds of it)

Mix the oil and ATF together well first, then add the other two parts and mix the crap well again.


Just saw that this was a dead thread..... Newbies.............

[henpecked]

lubriplate outboard motor grease found at any auto parts store

[HoneyBadger]

This thread was almost dead for one full year before being brought back to life. AWESOME

http://www.ibiza-voice.com/media/news/News/vvwillo/gene_wilder_peter_boyle_young_frank.gif

[CHA-LEE]

Brian Enos Slide Glide Grease is really good stuff. It stays where you put it and does not sling or bake off when shooting a bunch. I regularly go 5000 - 7000 rounds between cleans on my pistols when using the Brian Enos Slide Glide. Even after that much shooting the slide glide grease is still lubricating the parts very well.

[BPTactical]

http://www.ibiza-voice.com/media/news/News/vvwillo/gene_wilder_peter_boyle_young_frank.gif



Superslckumpucky!

[COeskimo]

and if it rotates then it gets oiled with ATF or 15W40 motor oil (bolt in a bolt action, trigger assemblies, etc.).
Works just fine.

[T-Giv]

HUGE +1 for Frog Lube. I have been blown away by how much better my M&P functions after using that and I clean my gun all the time.

[Alf Tanner]

HUGE +1 for Frog Lube. I have been blown away by how much better my M&P functions after using that and I clean my gun all the time.

I'm going to say frog lube is the best thing I've purchased in a long time. I cant believe how much of a difference it makes. It smells good too.

[paddywagon]

Being I used to be a marine mechanic for many years, I use Mercury Marine's 2-4-C w/Teflon.

[missionxo]

I also jumped on the Frog Lube bus.

[KS63]

Frog lube works great for me. Treated all my guns inside and out for ease of cleaning. I use Lucas full synthetic grease in the rails of my 1911's and HK P30. I also have used Royal Purple full synthetic 5w30 motor oil on hammer, sears and triggers. It's not cheap, but I trust Royal Purple after a really bad no oil pressure ordeal on my race car. Bearings were like new.

[rondog]

Weapon Shield oil and Mobil 1 synthetic grease here.

[DaBull]

I clean with Hoppe's Elite (odorless and not greasy like #9), then wipe on a light coat of oil. Before I take something out to shoot, I put Wilson Combat Ultima Gun Grease on the moving surfaces. It's really thick, cheap, and comes with a needle-nose dispenser.

[strm_trpr]

I clean with Hoppe's Elite (odorless and not greasy like #9), then wipe on a light coat of oil. Before I take something out to shoot, I put Wilson Combat Ultima Gun Grease on the moving surfaces. It's really thick, cheap, and comes with a needle-nose dispenser.

Cool, that is my exact procedure as well.

Oh and Ding 200 :)

[bravastar1]

Check out the Wilson Combat site. They have some of the best lube going. I use it on all my 1911's and they all run great.