1911 fired when slide released

[SouthPaw]

NO ONE WAS HURT IN THE INCIDENT AND THE FIREARM WAS POINTED IN A SAFE DIRECTION WHEN IT WENT OFF


I have recently been getting into the 1911 world and finally picked up two Springfield 1911-A1 Mil-Spec 's which were both used when I acquired them.

Today at the range my father dropped a live round from the top of the slide into the chamber. While the pistol was locked open using the slide stop he thankfully pointed it in a safe direction and used the slide stop to release the slide and BOOM it went off into the dirt. The gun had no magazine in it and kicked out the shell like it normally would.

Of course our immediate reaction was to check to see if everyone was ok (which everyone was because it was pointed in a safe direction). After fooling around with it we noticed that the pistol when used with the slide stop upon release about every 3rd time the hammer would fall forward into half cock position. Examining the shell that was accidentally fired the primer did not look like it was hit very hard or at least I didn't think so.

I took them home and was completely baffled by what had happened. Like I said before I am new to the 1911 world but having both pistols side by side only the one that fired with the slide drop would the hammer fall into half cock sometimes. It just made me really think of all the possiblities that could of happened. I really feel that it may do the same thing even if I loaded a round into the chamber using a magazine.

Tomorrow I am taking it to a friend of mines dad who is a licensed gun smith to have it examined. Hopefully it is an easy fix but it was defiantly an eye opener.

[Atrain1]

Be sure to post results I had a friend of mine take his apart and put it back together and when he took it out he pulled the trigger and it went full auto, At the time I was 19 he would not tell me what he did but it was a quick fix. It is probably a sear or the disconnector being worn or maybe just the leaf spring is out of place or not enough tension, If you have an overtravel screw it could be improperly adjusted if you want to try to adjust it turn it in until it will not drop the hammer when you pull the trigger then turn it out about an 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn you can also check it by holding the trigger and pulling down the hammer if you feel the half cock bump when pulling on the hammer adjust the screw out just until you can not feel the half cock, and if you have any snap caps or emty shells pull the hammer back and pull the trigger about 15 times to be sure if works if by any chance it does not work adjust the screw out just until the sear releases. I put a new trigger on my smith and I had not dropped the slide with the slide stop but I just did and had the same exact problem you have I just adjusted my overtravel screw and it works like a charm. I am new to working with 1911 pistols I have been at it for a few months I am still learning and could be way off base, so I would check with BP tactical I hear he is really good with 1911's.

[Graves]

Assuming the hammer isn't following the slide (take it to a smith if so) - I'd take a look at the fp bore, make sure it's free of debris, and swap out the FP spring (along with the rest). I'm sure if there was a full mag it woulda went full auto. [M2]

BTW, It's not a slide release, use the sling shot method in the future. And do not mess with the OT screw if you're not very familiar with these.

[ChadAmberg]

I've always seen recommended everywhere that you NEVER just drop a round into the chamber and close the slide. Now, that's so you don't need to go buy a new extractor before you shoot it next time, not because it's going to just go off, but still good advice.

[Circuits]

he thankfully pointed it in a safe direction and used the slide stop to release the slide and BOOM it went off into the dirt.

That is what is expected, and should be "of course" not "thankfully"

If his booger hook wasn't on the bang button, then you've got a defective trigger sear, which is why you should ALWAYS KEEP A GUN POINTED IN A SAFE DIRECTION.

[BPTactical]

Do not fire this weapon until it has been inspected and corrected!

What you experienced is known as "Hammer Follow" and as Circuits noted it is typically a sear issue. You mentioned the hammer drops occasionally- here is a test: with the pistol UNLOADED depress the trigger fully and rack the slide, letting it slam closed. Only do this a maximum of 5 times-you'll see why only 5 times further in the post. The hammer should stay on the full cock notch. If not DO NOT FIRE THE WEAPON.
My guess- your 1911 is the victim of a bubbafied trigger job. Sear nose incorrectly stoned/bad angles, hammer hooks not deep enough etc.
As Graves noted if you are not familiar with the overtravel screw on the trigger DON'T MESS with it! I really wish the term "adjustable trigger" on 1911's would disappear, they are not adjustable per se. Weak firing pin spring is a possibility but unlikely. They are cheap, just replace all the springs including mag springs while you are at it.
The only time you will get a 1911 to dump the mag (full auto) is when the disconnector is too short, again from a Bubba trigger job usually.

Never load a single round directly to the chamber! Always load from the mag (clip for the liberals out there).
Your extractor will thank you and here is why: when you load a round from the mag as the slide travels forward and starts to strip the round from the mag it slides upward as well. The rim of the cartridge slides up UNDER the hook on the extractor.
When you already have the round in the chamber the hook of the extractor is forced to jump OVER the rim of the cartridge. You just killed the tension on the extractor plus hook breakage will eventually occur.
NEVER let the slide slam closed on an EMPTY chamber. You will ruin a trigger job for sure. When the slide slams into battery on an empty chamber the inertia causes the sear nose to "bounce" against the hammer. You just killed those precisely honed sear primary angles. I have actually seen sear noses break from it.
Try not to release the slide with the slide stop. Its purpose is to lock the slide open when the mag follower pushes it up on an empty mag. That is why it is called a slide stop, not a slide release. The proper way to drop the slide after charging a fresh magazine is to pull back on the slide and release it from the stop position (with your finger out of the trigger guard of course). The notch on the slide will thank you, it will eventually get buggered up if you use the stop to release it.

Welcome to 1911 101!

Feel free to contact me if you have any questions.

[Atrain1]

As stated above I am still learning about the 1911 and how it works, (learning how to be a gunsmith) I purchased a trigger for my sw1911 and it dropped right in felt fine and had about a 3 1/2 pound pull but I dropped the slide for a function test and I had the hammer follow to the half cock position, so I turned the OT screw in until it would not drop the hammer and then turned it out just until I could not feel the half cock bump while holding down the trigger and pulling down the hammer, I can now drop the slide and the hammer will stay in place, but I did it once or twice on an emty chamber so now I am worried about the sear I do use recoil buffers and I dont use the slide stop to drop the slide except for on one gun and it has had a hard life anyway. So I guess my question is are the steps for adjusting my trigger ot screw correct and with no polished parts sear disconnector or trigger what kind of dammage should I expect?

[SouthPaw]

That is what is expected, and should be "of course" not "thankfully"

If his booger hook wasn't on the bang button, then you've got a defective trigger sear, which is why you should ALWAYS KEEP A GUN POINTED IN A SAFE DIRECTION.

Well to be more correct we always practice safe firearm use including always pointing in a safe direction or only pointing it at something you are intentionally shooting at. Sorry for any confusion.

Of course the gun will not be fired until it is inspected. All of your help is greatly appreciated.

[BPTactical]

As stated above I am still learning about the 1911 and how it works, (learning how to be a gunsmith) I purchased a trigger for my sw1911 and it dropped right in felt fine and had about a 3 1/2 pound pull but I dropped the slide for a function test and I had the hammer follow to the half cock position, so I turned the OT screw in until it would not drop the hammer and then turned it out just until I could not feel the half cock bump while holding down the trigger and pulling down the hammer, I can now drop the slide and the hammer will stay in place, but I did it once or twice on an emty chamber so now I am worried about the sear I do use recoil buffers and I dont use the slide stop to drop the slide except for on one gun and it has had a hard life anyway. So I guess my question is are the steps for adjusting my trigger ot screw correct and with no polished parts sear disconnector or trigger what kind of dammage should I expect?

Letting the slide slam on an empty chamber a couple of times is unfortunately a necessary evil when doing any fire control work on a 1911. It is about the only way you can check for hammer follow. Just don't as a regular habit.
I used to cringe when I worked in the shop and would hand a customer any semi auto with the action open. The very first thing they would do even after you told them not to do it was drop the slide.
Morons.
Your adjustment of the OT screw sounds about right-if anything err to the loose side a touch. A smidge of overtravel is far better than the sear nose getting hammered on the half cock notch.
Your recoil buffer will do nothing as far as slamming the slide into battery. It is to prevent the frame/dust cover from battering as the pistol reaches full recoil.

[SA Friday]

BP is absolutely correct. I immediately thought of a Bubba with a Dremel going to town on the sear, or the overtravel screw was over adjusted. It could be a weak mainspring too like BP said, nevertheless, get the gun checked out by a gunsmith and determine what it is before firing it anymore.

1911 triggers are amazing animals. They can be modified to just about any shooter's desires, but they can also wear out, faster when made really light or cheap parts are used. But, they are rebuild fairly easy too. So, don't sweat it too much. If it need rebuilt, use high quality parts and don't go super light on the trigger weight and it will last a very long time.

[SouthPaw]

BP is absolutely correct. I immediately thought of a Bubba with a Dremel going to town on the sear, or the overtravel screw was over adjusted. It could be a weak mainspring too like BP said, nevertheless, get the gun checked out by a gunsmith and determine what it is before firing it anymore.

1911 triggers are amazing animals. They can be modified to just about any shooter's desires, but they can also wear out, faster when made really light or cheap parts are used. But, they are rebuild fairly easy too. So, don't sweat it too much. If it need rebuilt, use high quality parts and don't go super light on the trigger weight and it will last a very long time.

Kind of reassuring if that is the problem. Hoping its not going to be to expensive to fix.

[SouthPaw]

Letting the slide slam on an empty chamber a couple of times is unfortunately a necessary evil when doing any fire control work on a 1911. It is about the only way you can check for hammer follow. Just don't as a regular habit.


Call me dumb and ignorant but I really had no idea that was actually damaging the firearm by doing this. It never crossed my mind but I am glad I know now and it won't happen again. Thanks for sharing the information.

[Atrain1]

Letting the slide slam on an empty chamber a couple of times is unfortunately a necessary evil when doing any fire control work on a 1911. It is about the only way you can check for hammer follow. Just don't as a regular habit.
I used to cringe when I worked in the shop and would hand a customer any semi auto with the action open. The very first thing they would do even after you told them not to do it was drop the slide.
Morons.
Your adjustment of the OT screw sounds about right-if anything err to the loose side a touch. A smidge of overtravel is far better than the sear nose getting hammered on the half cock notch.
Your recoil buffer will do nothing as far as slamming the slide into battery. It is to prevent the frame/dust cover from battering as the pistol reaches full recoil. Thank you for the info that is how I learned how to perform a function test on a 1911 and it has passed all the checks thumb safety grip safety slowly letting slide drop while pulling trigger and the horrible part of dropping the slide on a emty chamber, I thought it would be better to use a spent case but after doing it to 2 of my 1911's it hit me that I was doing the extractor harm so as soon as I can I would like to go get some snap caps.

[SouthPaw]

Pistol is off to Springfield now. I took it to my gunsmith and after looking it over he felt it would be safest to send it in. Springfield has great customer service and is paying for shipping both ways and insurance. Will keep you posted on the results.

[BPTactical]

Curious to know what Springfield will do, especially if the issue is due to a kitchen table "trigger job". If this was a new pistol that malfunctioned I would agree with letting the factory deal with it.

[SouthPaw]

Curious to know what Springfield will do, especially if the issue is due to a kitchen table "trigger job". If this was a new pistol that malfunctioned I would agree with letting the factory deal with it.

Well after having a gun smith look at it to the best of what he could see he said the pistol does not look like it has ever been completly torn down other than cleaned.

[Atrain1]

Letting the slide slam on an empty chamber a couple of times is unfortunately a necessary evil when doing any fire control work on a 1911. It is about the only way you can check for hammer follow. Just don't as a regular habit.
I used to cringe when I worked in the shop and would hand a customer any semi auto with the action open. The very first thing they would do even after you told them not to do it was drop the slide.
Morons.
Your adjustment of the OT screw sounds about right-if anything err to the loose side a touch. A smidge of overtravel is far better than the sear nose getting hammered on the half cock notch.
Your recoil buffer will do nothing as far as slamming the slide into battery. It is to prevent the frame/dust cover from battering as the pistol reaches full recoil. I know the buffer wont help when I drop the slide I just wanted to give you an idea how I take care of my guns, I also wanted to ask if a recoil buffer would help in a early Colt Delta Elite 10mm from my understanding they just took a 45 and turned it into a 10mm with a heavier recoil spring and few differences and I have been hearing they are only good for 5000 to 6000 rounds, and that the round is really hard on the 45 frame, I am talking real rounds like a strong home brew or Doubletap Thanks for your help.

[Atrain1]

Did you get the hammer follow problem fixed and if so what was it?

[SouthPaw]

Did you get the hammer follow problem fixed and if so what was it?

It is still at Springfield. They said it would be 10 days before I could even check the status of gun [Rant1]. Will keep you posted as soon as I hear results.

[BPTactical]

It is still at Springfield. They said it would be 10 days before I could even check the status of gun [Rant1]. Will keep you posted as soon as I hear results.

Woulda had it done 5 days ago[Muaha]

[SouthPaw]

Finally got a call today. The lady informed that the pistol was being sent back to me fixed. She did not have full details but told me she believed it had a broken sear and disconnector? Again I am new to the 1911 world so I may have heard her wrong but she told me I could call tomorrow to get the full "report." I did not have to pay a dime.

[Atrain1]

Finally got a call today. The lady informed that the pistol was being sent back to me fixed. She did not have full details but told me she believed it had a broken sear and disconnector? Again I am new to the 1911 world so I may have heard her wrong but she told me I could call tomorrow to get the full "report." I did not have to pay a dime. The sear and disconnector will deff cause that problem.

[BPTactical]

The sear and disconnector will deff cause that problem.


Whodathunkit?[Tooth]

[spyder]

Woulda had it done 5 days ago[Muaha]


...she believed it had a broken sear and disconnector?...
I think BP would have had it done in 5 minutes. [Beer]

[SouthPaw]

After talking to Rob I think the next time will be a no brainer! +1 for Rob and all his help!

[Byte Stryke]

After talking to Rob I think the next time will be a no brainer! +1 for Rob and all his help! Bert is the only one I let work on my weapons. He just finished a fluff and buff on my Kimber pro carry II. It's Smoother than sex...

[sneakerd]

I ain't sure about that, but Byte's Kimber is pretty sweet......