1911 Breech face out-of-spec

[68Charger]

I've had a side project building a 1911 from a Caspian frame & a Stainless parts kit (was an odd manufacturer (SMC?) that is no longer in 1911 business, but it was cheap (I know, I wanted a challenge[Coffee]))

the headspace checks out good at .900 (.890 from end of chamber to hood, and .010 from hood to breech face), but the extractor is too far out from the breech face- I get ~.100 to the inside of the claw, and .140-.150 to the end of the extractor.

The extractor at this length is causing feeding problems (duh) [Bang]

I don't have the measurements handy, but the extractor was within spec. It seems to me that the slide is out of spec, with the breech face too far back, and that the lugs are cut too far back to compensate, at the expense of the extractor protruding too far.

It seems like I could make it work by getting a "short" extractor, since the headspace is good, and the pistol otherwise works, it just has feeding issues due to rounds hanging up on the extractor... but I don't see where I can buy an extractor based on length [BooHoo]

This is just my 1st 1911 build from parts, it's not intended to be match accurate, or a carry gun, but I'd like to get it to be reliable, and learn along the way (I've learned tons already building it, but it was shelved for a while when life got busy)

Thoughts, critical or otherwise?

Thanks in advance...

[BPTactical]

Your extractor is too tight and probably needs to be fitted and polished.
OAL of the extractor should be 2 11/16" and your measurements of extractor protrusion from the breechface are within specs. Both of the ones I am looking at now are about .135-140 from the BF. Yours might be a bit too long on the nose especially if it is a "bargain bin" part
If the tension is too tight and the bottom of the hook needs contouring the rim of the cartridge will hang up and keep the pistol from going into full battery.
CAUTION-you need either a full weight dummy cartridge or a live round for the following check!
With the slide off of the frame slide a cartridge up under the extractor. It should slide in using slight thumb pressure. Any more and the extractor is too tight. You should also be able to feel the cartridge move a little while it is held to the breechface without it falling out yet you should be able to shake the slide a bit without the round falling out.

[68Charger]

Thanks for the reply- very helpful... I have polished & contoured the claw side of the extractor- when I slide a round under the extractor, it actually hangs up at the nose, rather than the claw... so it sounds like I need to file/stone the nose a bit...
I don't have camera & slide here at the moment, so here is a crude text graphic:
......|
......|
..../
.../<-- tip of extractor hitting here
../
./
/___
____| rim of round
base of round

the spent brass will actually get a mark from the extractor, but not on the rim- it's up the tapered portion (where the arrow is pointing)
I considered trimming the tip, but I was certain it was too long overall- since there is so much space (.100) to the breech face (when a .45ACP rim is what, .050"?)
I'll take a little off the nose, and maybe see if I can snap a pic... and see if feeding improves.
Thanks for the advise!

[BPTactical]

Sounds like the contour of the nose is questionable. You don't want the round to be held by the rim, you should actually see a touch of daylight between the rim and the "cut" in the extractor. You only want contact on the area of the casehead your "drawing" depicts and you only want the edge of the extractor contacting, not the nose. I would still check the tension, it should only take about 4 lbs of thumb pressure to slide the rim under the extractor.


Good description of the problem and good "drawing"
[Beer]

If it still gives you fits come see me.

[68Charger]

I adjusted the extractor to remove tension, and it now operates flawlessly, with the exception of ejecting the last round if it is not fired (i.e. ejected a live round)

Once the tension was eased on the extractor, the nose would no longer hit the round as described above.

When cycling live rounds by hand, they will all eject but the last one, which gets hung up on the ejection port- I'm thinking a ejection port flare should fix that, but I haven't bothered yet... it works fine cycling and ejecting when fired. (this isn't a defensive pistol, at least not yet)

it's now to the point where I'll parkerize the frame- and if I don't like the way the finish comes out, put duracoat or the like over the park.

Many thanks to BPTactical for ESP-like diagnostic skills, without ever seeing a photo...

[BPTactical]

No need to flare the port.
Even the finest 1911 will hang a live round when hand cycling. It is about .400 too long because that big ol fat pumpkin is still in the casing.
How does it clear with empty casings?
[Coffee]

If your going to duracoat it do not oil it after parkerizing. No matter how much lacquer thinner you soak it in you will NEVER get the oil out of the finish.

[68Charger]

I'll agree there's no 'need' to flare the ejection port...

However, a live round is just barely catching- with maybe .010-.020 removed from the corner, and it would probably clear...

I'll have to try my hollow points, didn't hand cycle them- they'll probably clear, that's how little the nose of the round is hanging up. If they clear, then I'll leave it- since hollow points are what would be in it if it were put into defensive service.

good point on the oil- will have to evaluate if the finish is good enough before oiling- still experimenting with the manganese phosphate process... need to finish few more tools (or scrap) before I do this frame, to iron out the kinks.

again, this is as much about the process & experience as the results- otherwise, I'd just bring it to BPTactical to finish...