View Full Version : cheap trigger job
soldier-of-the-apocalypse
09-11-2011, 22:25
i wanna do a trigger job on my delton that will be coming in the mail some day and i just want a little more info. when i say i wana do a trigger job i mean iwant to tweak the stock gi trigger such as polishing and spring mods, not putting in a rra o a jewl ive done that before so i want to try something new any info would be great.
I know I've mentioned them on this board before but I'm always happy to plug the JP reduced power spring kit. They're $10 at Brownells and many other places. I think they're a great way to get a noticable difference for almost no money.
How about this? -
http://www.sargenthome.com/15_Minute_AR_Trigger_Job.htm
It's quick and easy and does improve things.
soldier-of-the-apocalypse
09-12-2011, 08:03
i seen that article but i think im gona go with the jp spings. im more interested in the polishing side of things like what tools i need to do the job and where would i get jewlers polish
BuffCyclist
09-12-2011, 10:51
I've got the JP Reduced Power Trigger Springs in mine, they were like $13 shipped from Brownells. After polishing the hammer and sear (I believe those are the parts I polished, been a while since I looked at it [ROFL2] ), I get a very nice, crisp trigger. Best of all, if I pay attention, I can feel 2 stages almost. A takeup stage, then it breaks loose becoming lighter for a little bit and then bang. Would definitely recommend you try this before getting a nicer trigger!
BPTactical
09-12-2011, 11:24
I CANNOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH!!
IF YOU DO NOT KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING THE TRIGGER OF YOUR AR IS NOT THE TIME TO LEARN!!
I have had to "UnBubba" more than a couple of rifles and every single one was due to the mindset of "I'll just polish this here a little more".....................
Gotta love kitchen table Smiffin.
You are dealing with precise sear/hammer angles and engagement surfaces and can very easily make it worse or create a rifle that can double and or fire out of battery. This can be disastrous.
While AR's are easily one of the most "user friendly" platforms there are some things you need to know what you are doing.
Just swapping springs will not address a gritty, creepy trigger and can create its own problems i.e. light strikes etc.
OP-You are just up the road from me. For less than the cost of a dinner for two (or the tools to do it)I can provide you a clean, crisp single stage trigger that is safe.
BuffCyclist
09-12-2011, 11:49
I CANNOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH!!
IF YOU DO NOT KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING THE TRIGGER OF YOUR AR IS NOT THE TIME TO LEARN!!
I have had to "UnBubba" more than a couple of rifles and every single one was due to the mindset of "I'll just polish this here a little more".....................
Gotta love kitchen table Smiffin.
You are dealing with precise sear/hammer angles and engagement surfaces and can very easily make it worse or create a rifle that can double and or fire out of battery. This can be disastrous.
While AR's are easily one of the most "user friendly" platforms there are some things you need to know what you are doing.
Just swapping springs will not address a gritty, creepy trigger and can create its own problems i.e. light strikes etc.
OP-You are just up the road from me. For less than the cost of a dinner for two (or the tools to do it)I can provide you a clean, crisp single stage trigger that is safe.
If that is in response to what I said, I did TONS of research on the parts to be polished on my trigger. It was not a random, oh this looks good so I'll polish it.
There is one surface that I did not polish, as it is too difficult to polish accurately (has a step/edge/surface that causes the hammer to fall), and that was the part that I was told is the most dangerous to modify, so I left it as was.
I do agree though that if you do not know what you are doing, polishing should not be attempted. I did lots of research to ensure I did not polish spots incorrectly, or spots that would make the trigger dangerous.
But still, simply installing the springs without polishing anything reduced the trigger pull lower than what the factory trigger is. Worth it in my opinion just for that. If you come across a trigger job that involves cutting off one wound of a spring, THAT is dangerous!
BPTactical
09-12-2011, 12:09
If that is in response to what I said, I did TONS of research on the parts to be polished on my trigger. It was not a random, oh this looks good so I'll polish it.
There is one surface that I did not polish, as it is too difficult to polish accurately (has a step/edge/surface that causes the hammer to fall), and that was the part that I was told is the most dangerous to modify, so I left it as was.
I do agree though that if you do not know what you are doing, polishing should not be attempted. I did lots of research to ensure I did not polish spots incorrectly, or spots that would make the trigger dangerous.
But still, simply installing the springs without polishing anything reduced the trigger pull lower than what the factory trigger is. Worth it in my opinion just for that. If you come across a trigger job that involves cutting off one wound of a spring, THAT is dangerous!
Nope BC-it was directed at the OP. Now there are some items that removal of a coil on a spring is acceptable practice but an AR is not it!
And as stated, while RP springs help it does nothing for smoothing a pull. Quite often I can achieve the same results if not better just by precise stone work and never touching springs.
IF YOU DO NOT KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING THE TRIGGER OF YOUR AR IS NOT THE TIME TO LEARN!!
I forgot to mention that this is the other reason I like the JP springs. There's no messing around with the parts that do work and it only takes "just a bit more" polishing to cause a whole lot of trouble. It's also why they're a safer option than the "15 minute trigger job." I did it just for fun when I ordered my JP ones. I really had the sense of one wrong move ruining the whole thing especially since I wasn't sure what the results were supposed to feel like. Luckily I did it right and it resulted in roughly the same outcome as the JP spring switch. What it adds up to is that it's a 100% reversable modification that is safe to begin with.
If you want a really nice trigger either take it to a professional or look into the drop-in systems. Both will cost some money but it's the next step after the easy little fixes.
soldier-of-the-apocalypse
09-13-2011, 10:10
it cant be that hard with the right amount of research i can figure out how to do just about anything on google or youtube, and the only way to learn is to do it your self. i never learned anything by letting somebody else do it for me. maybe post some pics of what is so hard to do about the job
I think the problem is that online tutorials can't show you what a teeny tiny bit of now missing material will cause parts not to catch each other correctly. Again, there's no undo button on that. This goes double for the fact that they're all somewhat unique.
If you want to do it yourself (I'm also all about hands on learning but I had the benefit of experienced friends looking over my shoulder) there are some precautions you can take.
First, this shouldn't be your only trigger set. Have some backup components and maybe even a set in your range bag you'll never modify so you'll have a properly and legally working gun. Always err on the side of safety. When it gets "pretty good" think seriously about stopping. If you can get a hold of a finished rifle or someone with that kind of experience so you can get a comparison that would be good.
When you're test firing is the time to really be careful. Do all the normal checks after re-assembling the rifle such as safety and dry fire. Start out with only one round at a time. Make sure the rifle resets correctly and all that. Then do ONLY TWO rounds. Make sure it's not going to double. Then three or four rounds to make sure it won't go full auto. Do each a few times to be sure. When you build up to a full mag (and I'm not saying go one at a time) remember that the mag release is the ultimate abort button if something goes wrong.
I think that covers the basics and I'm sure someone else will chime in if I forgot something important.
soldier-of-the-apocalypse
09-13-2011, 12:27
yeay i will definatly order another trigger set before atempting the job and that is why i like the j&p springs because ill have spares does anybody have pictures like before and after the trigger job
BPTactical
09-13-2011, 12:54
No how to pic's but I do have pic's of a Bushmaster that KB'd because it fired out of battery/ not fully locked due to a bubbafied trigger. Hammer followed the bolt carrier because of inadequate sear engagement.
Can't save people from themselves.................................
soldier-of-the-apocalypse
09-13-2011, 15:16
so if i was to have you do the job how much would it be
I know it's not the route you where interested in but I have to say that a drop in Timney was an easy fix for me. I just couldn't see how a "trigger job" would alter the creep I felt in my DPMS mil spec trigger. After using the Timney I can't imagine going back.
Byte Stryke
09-13-2011, 16:39
and there are people that have had their AR trigger redone by Bert that swear its better than a drop in...
Bert knows his shit.
I Liken it to surgery. Sure, you can watch a youtube video on how to perform surgery on your leg...
but wouldn't it be better to have someone that KNOWS exactly WTF he's doing?
StagLefty
09-13-2011, 17:22
and there are people that have had their AR trigger redone by Bert that swear its better than a drop in...
Bert knows his shit.
I Liken it to surgery. Sure, you can watch a youtube video on how to perform surgery on your leg...
but wouldn't it be better to have someone that KNOWS exactly WTF he's doing?
^This +1 While I understand being frugal. I don't agree with "cheap" when it comes to the mechanics of firearms. Accessories are one thing but I want to hear bang when I pull the trigger. See Bert [Beer]
SuperiorDG
09-13-2011, 17:30
Quality isn't cheap and cheap isn't quality.
soldier-of-the-apocalypse
09-13-2011, 22:03
I know it's not the route you where interested in but I have to say that a drop in Timney was an easy fix for me. I just couldn't see how a "trigger job" would alter the creep I felt in my DPMS mil spec trigger. After using the Timney I can't imagine going back.
timney is way to light, this is gona probly be my beater rifle so it does not need a comp trigger. I just seen this topic on another forum and im still playing with the idea. I just wanted more info on trigger polishing.
strm_trpr
09-14-2011, 01:57
Cheap
Fast
quality
Pick 1
lol
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