View Full Version : any mechanics on this forum?
So I haven't drove my '92 S-10 pickup in about 2 months. I did go start it and let it run for a few minutes maybe 2 weekends ago and all was well.
Today I went out and the clutch pedal does not fully come up to where it should be when undepressed.
I can get the tranny in gear when the truck is NOT running but when it is running and the clutch is depressed, I can't get it into any gear.
When the truck is not running, I can shift it into gear and then even when the clutch is depressed, the truck lurches forward on startup and then will run, but I can't shift into any other gear.
I checked and topped off the clutch fluid, all appears well there.
Anyone have any clues?
Robb
2008f450
10-30-2011, 13:50
Try this. With engine running and transmission not in any gear. pump the clutch pedal 7-10 times and try going into 1st gear. if it goes in I would say slave cylinder is bad at the transmission.
I'll go do it again, but I pumped the crap out of it an hour ago. When the engine is running, it just won't go into any gear.
2008f450
10-30-2011, 14:05
Most common problem is the slave cylinder. I usually replace the slave cylinder and the master cylinder since they generally have the same time/milage on them. if pedal is not coming all the way up it could also possibly be a problem with the clutch pressure plate failing. That woiuld mean new clutch assembly. I would guess master and slave without being there to see it.
mcantar18c
10-30-2011, 14:12
Check the lines and everything around them for leaks. If you don't find any, try bleeding the line... that should take care of it, it sounds like you're either losing fluid or more likely have air in the line. Try it out and report back.
If that doesn't solve it you might want to take a look at the slave.
One question, how are the brakes feeling?
I appreciate it, I'll dig out the Chiltons and see how much this is going to hurt.
streetglideok
10-30-2011, 14:23
Clutch hydraulics are going out most likely. It works like a brake system, but at a much lower pressure. Either the slave or the clutch master is starting to bypass, and allowing air into the system, from the description. Best thing as suggested, replace both pieces together, and bleed it. Bleeding them successfully can be a bit of a pain at times, FYI.
soldier-of-the-apocalypse
10-30-2011, 14:25
I'd say slave cylinder as well
No leaks, no new puddles that I can see. Brakes feel fine.
Yhanks guys, I'll start doing some research on how easy to replace.
R
mcantar18c
10-30-2011, 14:39
Good... just wanted to eliminate the MC.
Bleed the clutch, it isn't a difficult job and if it works then there you go. Don't start throwing parts at it until you eliminate easier, cheaper options first or you'll end up spending much more money and time than you needed to.
SideShow Bob
10-30-2011, 15:02
As others have mentioned, most likely the pressure plate. Or rust/corrosion on the sleeve that the throw out bearing rides on, preventing the pedal from returning and keeping the clutch partially disengaged and not allowing the clutch to fully disengage when the pedal is fully depressed.
Only a teardown will bring the true problem to light.
streetglideok
10-30-2011, 16:41
Brakes wont have anything to do with the clutch hydraulics on that vehicle. They have seperate resevoirs, each with DOT3 fluid. The amount of fluid that needs to leak, to cause clutch hydraulic problems is miniscule. Pull the dust boot back, that is around the slave cylinder bore. Dont be shocked if you see some fluid there. Next, crawl under the dash, find where the pushrod goes thru the firewall. Look for more signs of fluid leaks. Any moisture is grounds suspect a failure. On clutch hydraulics, it is much easier to get air drawn into the system, then say, a brake system. My guess is, you can reach down and pull on the pedal, it will come up to its stop. Pump the pedal a few times, like 10x or more, and it will start to feel somewhat normal again. If thats the case, you almost are assured a bad hydraulic part. Simply bleeding it will be a waste, as that doesnt fix the problem, that hides the symptoms, until it sucks air or loses its retained pressure, again, which doesnt take too long, days at most. You asked for advice from mechanics, Im giving you advice from a certified master auto technician.
mcantar18c
10-30-2011, 17:04
Separate reservoirs, but I'm pretty sure the slave is tied into the MC. And if it was the MC, he'd be feeling it in the brakes too.
Bleeding the system won't fix the problem if its drawing air in from a point of failure, but it can help point towards the leak if there is one.
As streetglideok said, it doesn't take much fluid to cause problems with clutch systems, so don't think you're out of the woods yet if there aren't any puddles under the vehicle.
streetglideok
10-30-2011, 17:13
Separate reservoirs, but I'm pretty sure the slave is tied into the MC. And if it was the MC, he'd be feeling it in the brakes too.
Bleeding the system won't fix the problem if its drawing air in from a point of failure, but it can help point towards the leak if there is one.
As streetglideok said, it doesn't take much fluid to cause problems with clutch systems, so don't think you're out of the woods yet if there aren't any puddles under the vehicle.
Totally seperate systems. The only thing some vehicles, ie Mazdas have, is a shared fluid resevoir, but the clutch master cylinder, and brake master cylinder, are two totally seperate parts. Think about it, how is a basic mechanical/hydraulic device going to know, when the driver really wants the clutch released, and when he wants the brakes applied, or both? Trying to bleed it may make it worse, if, and it likely is, a hydraulic problem. Tear the tranny out and replace everything if you like. Personally, I prefer to fix the problem and go to the range or reload some ammo. So take it from a professional who pays the bills by doing this for a living.
this is why you do not let vehicles sit [Tooth]
what it looks like you have here is either something rusted or you cylinders either or master or slave not building hydraulic pressure
If the pedal isn't coming all the way up it is the clutch master cylinder. Bad slave or any other clutch problems will not hold the pedal down on a hydraulic system like an old linkage system would.
Yes, I shouldn't have let the truck sit. But I fired it twice a month. Lesson learned.
I didn't see any fluid anywhere.
Also, the clutch pedal does not come back up all the way and there's no way to pull it up by hand, it just won't return all the way.
You can undo the line at the bell housing and see if there is pressure there. Probably won't be therefore its either the master or the slave. I had the same problem with my 92.
Slave Cyl actuator rod was bent, and pretty severely. I have no idea how or why. New slave cyl is in and all seems to be working okay. There isn't much clutch left, it lets off with the pedal right off the floor, but it's on the road again.
R
brianakell
11-03-2011, 09:46
Slave Cyl actuator rod was bent, and pretty severely. I have no idea how or why. New slave cyl is in and all seems to be working okay. There isn't much clutch left, it lets off with the pedal right off the floor, but it's on the road again.
R
Sounds like either air still in the system, pushrod needs adjusting, or the clutch is pretty good. Worn out clutches wont engage until the top end of pedal travel. Most common Ive seen is pushrod needs adjusted. Just be sure to leave some freeplay, you do not want the throwout bearing spinning all the time, riding on the clutch fingers.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.3 Copyright © 2025 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.