Need advice: 2005 Mustang U-Joint question...

[Fentonite]

Any mechanics or Mustang owners...

My wife has an '05 Mustang (V6), with 50K miles. It developed a rotational tapping sound in the rear end. She took it to the dealer, who charged her $59 to diagnose the problem. Their "diagnosis" is that it might be the U-joint, but until they replace it, thet won't know if it might also be the differential. Problem is, they say they have to replace the entire driveshaft with the U-joint, as it's all one piece. They want $600-700 for the repair.

Does this seem right? Does anyone have any expience with this? I've replaced U-joints before (about 25 years ago), but never heard of needing to replace the driveshaft too.

Recommendations on a transmission shop?

Not impressed with Ford quality [Rant1]

[jscwerve]

I could be wrong, but I've never seen a u-joint that couldn't be replaced. Typically a $20 part. Like I said I could be wrong though.


*edit* Just spent 3 minutes on Google and found out that Ford is making their drive shafts with staked in u-joints and are not replaceable. On cars and trucks I guess. That sucks, I've broken many a u-joint whuile 4-wheeling. I hope other manufactures don't follow suit.

[jscwerve]

Oh, and read some more, Ford went back to serviceable u-joints in the 06 model year. You're one of the lucky ones I guess..

[Fentonite]

Oh, and read some more, Ford went back to serviceable u-joints in the 06 model year. You're one of the lucky ones I guess..

Well sh%#, that just rubs salt in it. [Bang]

I also read that it's a real bi¥€# to replace the driveshaft. [Rant2]

[jscwerve]

Well, the problem has interested me enough to look around more on it and it looks like a replacement shaft is around $700 aftermarket anyways. If the repair shop is going to do the whole job for that much, sounds like it is reasonable.

Another note, I can't possible see how it would be difficult to replace a drive shaft. It should be 8 bolts on the shaft and possibly a skid plate, would have to see it though.

[streetglideok]

I would contact a driveshaft specialty shop. They may be able to service the ends of the shaft, and make it serviceable, provided its aluminum or steel.

[Great-Kazoo]

you can get a rebuilt from any number of quality builders in the metro area. I had ford tell me the u-joints were "probably" the issues i was having that caused my transfer case to leak, $1K for the shaft + labor. I went to a place behind kings pawn in greeality who did a new shaft, and joints for $175.00 OTD. Labor was on me. Took about 20 min to remove and another 15 to install, torque to spec then off the stands and on the road. I knew the shaft was worn but did not resolve the problem tranny leak. That they quoted me another 1K P&L. I did a tailshaft bushing & seal, again my labor for $28.00

I acknowledge repair shops do have competent tech, tools and training to do the job. If i am unable to trouble shoot & repair i go to the pros.
HOWEVER, it seems now a days the emphasis has shifted away from true trouble shooting and gone to a replace parts until the problem is resolved. A lot of the old time tech (like me) were trained to figure it out then repair, or rebuild, not "guess" this might fix it.
YMMV

[Fentonite]

Yeah, I've found some driveshafts for a similar price. I just can't get my head around being unable to swap out a $30 part like I used to. Seems like somebody creative should've figured out how to replace the u-joints by now...

Thanks for your info[Beer]

[soldier-of-the-apocalypse]

Sounds like job security to me I wold say take it to a more honest mechanic if you can't do the job yourself but its most likely just a u joint you will also feel a slight vibration when they go bad

[Fentonite]

you can get a rebuilt from any number of quality builders in the metro area. I had ford tell me the u-joints were "probably" the issues i was having that caused my transfer case to leak, $1K for the shaft + labor. I went to a place behind kings pawn in greeality who did a new shaft, and joints for $175.00 OTD. Labor was on me. Took about 20 min to remove and another 15 to install, torque to spec then off the stands and on the road. I knew the shaft was worn but did not resolve the problem tranny leak. That they quoted me another 1K P&L. I did a tailshaft bushing & seal, again my labor for $28.00

I acknowledge repair shops do have competent tech, tools and training to do the job. If i am unable to trouble shoot & repair i go to the pros.
HOWEVER, it seems now a days the emphasis has shifted away from true trouble shooting and gone to a replace parts until the problem is resolved. A lot of the old time tech (like me) were trained to figure it out then repair, or rebuild, not "guess" this might fix it.
YMMV

Great info about the rebuilds. And I couldn't agree more about the change in estimates and diagnostics. We're losing true craftsmen in every trade.

[redneck122]

If that dealership is anything like the two i used to work for, there should be some wiggly room in that price. Try talking to them, saying you want to do the repair but cant afford $600. Most dealers should be able to come down on the price for you, as something is better than nothing for them.

It may not work at this particular dealer, but its worth a shot.

[argonstrom]

These guys have built several driveshafts for my jeep:

Front Range Driveline http://www.dexknows.com/business_profiles/front_range_driveline_inc-b507941/
(303) 783-9954
4000 South Federal Blvd Unit B, Sheridan, CO80110

If nothing else, it's worth a call.

[Fentonite]

If that dealership is anything like the two i used to work for, there should be some wiggly room in that price. Try talking to them, saying you want to do the repair but cant afford $600. Most dealers should be able to come down on the price for you, as something is better than nothing for them.

It may not work at this particular dealer, but its worth a shot.

My wife didn't get along well with the service manager - I'm afraid the bridge is burned...


These guys have built several driveshafts for my jeep:

Front Range Driveline http://www.dexknows.com/business_profiles/front_range_driveline_inc-b507941/
(303) 783-9954
4000 South Federal Blvd Unit B, Sheridan, CO80110

If nothing else, it's worth a call.

Absolutely worth a call - thanks!

I did find these instructions for driveshaft removal. Jscwerve is right - it doesn't look too tough.
http://www.wikiauto.com/GetFile.aspx?Page=Ford-Mustang-2005-Present-Drive-Shaft-Removal&File=Ford%20Service%20Manuals%20-%20Driveshaft%20200740Litre.pdf

[Irving]

Can you transplant a serviceable unit from another year into your vehicle? They probably cost a lot less.

[Fentonite]

Can you transplant a serviceable unit from another year into your vehicle? They probably cost a lot less.

That's a great thought. I'd probably only do it if I knew the part had really low miles, since this one is taking a crap a 50k.

[brianakell]

Id think hobbyists would have found a way to replace the joints themselves. Otherwise, Id be looking to see if the later models have an interchangeable driveshafts so you could swap a later shaft in, and have replaceable joints in the future.

[Ah Pook]

I know it's too far north but;

Ron
Boulder Drive Line Service
303-447-1641

He has built/repaired shafts for me. He might have some ideas to help out.

[Byte Stryke]

I would be getting that cr@p changed in a quick-hurry

Chevy S Series came with aluminum alloy drive shafts in the 98s and other years...
with a 4.3l and a heavy foot you could make them look like a candy cane


I traded that POS out quick. I got a steel one from a shop near commerce city. off of Vasquez.. they did great work.
sorry I do not remember the name.

[sniper7]

Not impressed with Ford quality [Rant1]

[Swim] you can say that again!

[TSOTSI]

Take the shaft out and take it to these guys. They will cut the existing yokes off and replace them with yokes that accommodate servicable ujoints.
You will be out the door around $300-350. As long as you keep them lubed you will get 150K.

http://www.drivetrainindustries.com/3.htm

[Fentonite]

Thanks for all the advice and referrals, guys. I'll start calling around on Monday.
[Beer]

[Holger Danske]

Google the problem. If you are having an issue, then I'm sure someone else has had the same problem and posted about it. I've diagnosed and solved a lot of issues this way. Many things are easy enough for the do it yourselfer with reasonable skills. Maybe start here? http://mustangforums.com/forum/2005-2011-mustangs/442020-popping-noise-in-rear.html. Good luck.

[Fentonite]

Hey... The same here... let me know if you find something out! It is really a great forum. I can learn something from it.

It was easy. I pulled the driveshaft (8 bolts, gotta use a 12 pt socket) and took it to Rocky Mountain Driveline. They machined out the old u-joints, and replaced them. Modified it so in the future, they can just be changed out in the normal, old-school fashion. Painted it nice and perty, all for around $250, I think. I scrapped the original bolts and used new ones from Ford to re-install (per the tech manual).

Here's contact info for the shop:
http://www.yellowbot.com/rocky-mountain-drive-line-specialists-denver-co.html

[gonz13]

Hey Fentonite I always on mustang forums and ill keep on eye out for a used driveshaft and if your willing to make the drive I can help with the install. Not hard at all. Also let me know if it's a manual or auto.

[Fentonite]

Hey Fentonite I always on mustang forums and ill keep on eye out for a used driveshaft and if your willing to make the drive I can help with the install. Not hard at all. Also let me know if it's a manual or auto.

Thanks man, but it's fixed. The thread was reserected when David24 posted in this thread, I quoted him and replied (the post above yours), but now David's post is gone. (?). Anyway, thanks!