View Full Version : Fire Retardent Exterior Finishes
I need to finish the exterior of the house. The fires, this year, are also motivating me.
The exterior is bare wood siding. The original owners probably used something like Penofin but it was many years ago, so I doubt their is any oil residue.
Fire Stop II came recommended.
http://www.flamestop.com/html/fr_ii.html
Flame Seal looks interesting.
http://www.logfinish.com/store/flamesealwoodseal.php
Pros, cons, suggestions?
ghettodub
07-11-2012, 15:20
I don't know much about that stuff, but you could call my family biz if you have questions; we're in the paint business, and I'm sure someone there could help.
303.674.1605
Stucco and metal roof. done!
jackthewall81
07-11-2012, 20:12
My parents-in-law are also interested in the best fire retardant paint after moving into a cabin in Larkspur.
build underground. that is the best way and will save on heating/cooling bills
Stucco and metal roof. done!
Already have the metal roof. Stucco has been bounced around. If I could find some old barn/grain bin metal I'd cover the house with that.
Thanks Ghetto, I might be giving them a call.
Coming from one of our insureds, my dad, a 29 year veteran fire fighter (retired) saw his set up for that spray on fire retardant stuff and said "that doesn't really work... you'd be better off with a moat." Not sure what our client had if it's the same as what you mentioned, but the first step should be fire mitigation around your property and then research that stuff heavily before making a decision, 90% of what's out there is bunk.
Good luck! [Beer]
Coming from one of our insureds, my dad, a 29 year veteran fire fighter (retired) saw his set up for that spray on fire retardant stuff and said "that doesn't really work... you'd be better off with a moat." Not sure what our client had if it's the same as what you mentioned, but the first step should be fire mitigation around your property and then research that stuff heavily before making a decision, 90% of what's out there is bunk.
Good luck! [Beer]
That's what I'm trying to find out.
Every year.
Great-Kazoo
07-13-2012, 17:28
You have a metal roof, why not do steel siding? We had it prior to a tornado and went with it again for rebuilding. Low maintenance, easy to clean and takes a lot more heat than stucco before it goes up.
You have a metal roof, why not do steel siding? We had it prior to a tornado and went with it again for rebuilding. Low maintenance, easy to clean and takes a lot more heat than stucco before it goes up.
Didn't really want the house to look like a pole building. :) Like I said, if I could find some old barn metal, I'd be all over it.
Great-Kazoo
07-13-2012, 20:05
Didn't really want the house to look like a pole building. :) Like I said, if I could find some old barn metal, I'd be all over it.
They don't look like pole barns. Mine looks like any other siding, only Metal. When i can stand up for a few, i'll snap a pic and post it.
The old rusty siding would sure be sweet. Look into closing the eves off too if yours are open, common ignition point.
The fire gel that you spray on is the real deal but it sure is spendy. Plus it has a reletively short shelf life (like 5 years if I remember correctly). Also you have to have time to apply it.
Mitigation and building construction will do you better than anything. Sounds like with a metal roof and yearly mitigation work you are on a pretty good Plan.
rockhound
07-14-2012, 01:18
tear it down and start over,
you cannot afford the building materials that would be necessary to keep you house from burning in a forest fire the likes of which we have seen lately.
there isn't a paint or siding or any other coating that will save your home, there are photos of the all steel building that melted in these fires.
proper mitigation and good insurance is a better place to spend your money,
even if you home survives the fire it may have to be torn down anyway due to smoke damage
if it were as simple as coating the homes in something then everyone would do it.
BlasterBob
07-14-2012, 11:14
The fire gel that you spray on is the real deal but it sure is spendy. Plus it has a reletively short shelf life (like 5 years if I remember correctly). Also you have to have time to apply it.
The fire gel/foam is the stuff that we bought just in case we get caught up in a wildfire. Stuff IS pricey but Fire Department said this gel/foam should work for us.
We have two of these units all ready to attach on to our two hoses:
.http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v310/bobjan/Firefence001.jpg
.http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v310/bobjan/Firefence002.jpg
Now we just hope and pray that we never have any need for these things.
.
Check out hardiplank, which is a fiber/cement composite.
They don't look like pole barns. Mine looks like any other siding, only Metal. When i can stand up for a few, i'll snap a pic and post it.
jims house looks normal. id think it was vinyl if I didn't know better
rockhound
07-14-2012, 12:47
the metal siding is .029 inches thick, it offers no significant increase in fire retardation.
the siding it self will melt at 2600 F. it will certainly pass enough heat through to the timber framing to ignite them at around 1100 F.,
the siding will not help you if exposed to the fire, zeroscaping around the home is your best defense.
BlasterBob
07-15-2012, 08:49
zeroscaping around the home is your best defense.
What is the official recommendation for distance of trees from the buildings? Also, trees should be trimmed to have branches no more than what distance from ground level??
I do have a few trees that are pretty close to my garage.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v310/bobjan/Grounds011.jpg
.Metal building on the left.
.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v310/bobjan/Grounds002.jpg
.
Check out the firewise website. They indicate various treatments for zones of your property. If you want to keep a couple of trees near the house or shop thats fine but then take some other preventative measures for the tree. Limb them up, reduce the fuel around the base, and clear the other trees on the area. Also the Colorado State Forest Service webpage has a lot of good info.
http://www.firewise.org/Information/Who-is-this-for/~/media/Firewise/Files/Pdfs/Booklets%20and%20Brochures/BrochureBeFirewiseAroundYourHome.pdf
Great-Kazoo
07-15-2012, 11:38
Didn't really want the house to look like a pole building. :) Like I said, if I could find some old barn metal, I'd be all over it.
Here is a pic of the house. if i did not say it was steel siding no one would be the wiser.
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u129/51jim/100_0667.jpg
I think you should use an insulator and not a conductor. Again check out Hardiplank...
7Ti5faqnvUQ
tear it down and start over,
Best idea so far. I'll go home and do that tonight. [Tooth]
Kinda like polishing a turd...but I live in the turd.
What is the official recommendation for distance of trees from the buildings? Also, trees should be trimmed to have branches no more than what distance from ground level??
Our local paper just put out a list for mitigation. It's based on a 30' ring around the house/outbuilding. I don't recall how close to the house trees could be but but trees are allowed within 30'. Limbing up to 10' (I limbed up to 16' and removed all branches overhanging roofs.). No bushes or grasses around the house.
I will have to go back and look again for details but the point is to remove potential fuels from around the structures.
I seem to remember a fire fighter using a foam around his property, during the Four Mile Fire. It worked, as a fire break too, but he stayed there to maintain it.
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