? About Stock/Chassis Configuration

[DHC]

My son and I are brand new to the world of precision rifles and have some questions to help us get started. We recently picked up a chassis from Mcrees Precision. This thing has adjustments for every damn thing. As a result, we are trying to determine a starting configuration that we will fine-tune as we gain experience. I'll start with a (seemingly) simple example and question - the cheek piece(s). The cheek piece is adjustable for height and also for angle/cant. I've read elsewhere that the top of the cheek piece needs to be aligned with the bore of the scope (correct? Yes/no/other?). What is not clear (to me, anyway) is the height of the cheek piece. Obviously, it needs to be positioned so that it is easy to view the scope. Aside from that, are there any general guidelines of a height to use as a 'go by' ?

Similarly, the length of pull. Are there any general guidelines to use as a starting point?

For those of you that are well-experienced, what are your considerations when fitting a new adjustable stock/chassis?

Sorry for the obvious newbie question - but like I said, with this new chassis there must be 20 different points on the chassis that can be adjusted, and some of those offer multiple options for adjustment. The variabilities are a bit overwhelming, so I'd like to start with a sound basis for a starting position for each of the major configuration points.

Appreciate any suggestions.

[Tim K]

You need to build your position behind the rifle. Most guys lie directly in line with the bore. Most critical is getting your head properly positioned behind the scope. Figure out where your head needs to be, then adjust the stock to your body so you are as relaxed as possible while in position. I like to start with all adjustment at their minimum values and increase them until they touch the appropriate body part. The goal is no muscle tension to support yourself. Try to achieve bone support, not muscle support.

If you don't know about natural point of aim yet, so a little search. In essence, you want to be able to close your eyes, relax, and then open your eyes and still be on target.

Another good trick is to set the rifle up with the bipod and rear bag so the crosshairs are on target and the reticle is level. Figure out how to approach the rifle and get into position while keeping the crosshairs on target. You'll need to squeeze the rear bag, or start with it high to compensate for the weight of your head. Finally, add your right hand, all while staying on target. Adjust the stock so this is comfortable. All that's left is to fiddle with your trigger hand to get a clean break while dry firing. Crosshairs should be dead still when the trigger breaks.

[C Ward]

Adjusting the stock is about removing shooter input from using muscle tension . Build a good prone position on the rifle with your eyes closed and the open them , you should have a full sight picture . From there adjust the rifle to get the desired sight picture with little or no shooter input to the gun . You should be able to stay on the gun for extended periods with out strain , if not adjust your position and stock till you can . Come out to one of the matches and talk to some people is still the best option that I always give .

[JMBD2112]

i adjusted the length of pull on my aics by holding the rifle and by adding the aics spacers till the butt was in the crease of my elbow, put it just right for me.

[COvigilance]

I would check out magpul's art of the precision rifle DVD, lots of good info for new people getting into long range shooting plus a bunch of more advanced stuff. Just a thought

[Madusa]

i adjusted the length of pull on my aics by holding the rifle and by adding the aics spacers till the butt was in the crease of my elbow, put it just right for me.

bingo