Parts is Parts. Or the Hey! I got enough crap to build another one.

[jerrymrc]

So over the years I have built many toys but have a fondness for Fal's. A couple of months ago a member called asking about some parts. Started digging in the box and realized I had enough to build a complete rifle.

Was going to buy a receiver from DCI but found one for cheap used. Only need to buy 2 small parts from Apex so I guess the days of the $350 Fal are not dead. [Flower] RA/ZA marked lower, RA marked BCG, "P" marked SA barrel. Will cut it to 18" and then cut a type C wood stock for the STG but pad. Since almost any mix-mash of parts will work at least this one will have a fair amount of real Rhodesian marked parts on it. I will remove the traces of baby-poop camo. Stay tuned. 1834918351

[BPTactical]

FAL WHORE!!!

[jerrymrc]

FAL WHORE!!!

I can make ya cry. [handbags] From back when ya could really build one for $350. 18363 [Flower] Hand Pick Imbel kits are now $500 I think from 2000-2004 I bought 6 Imbel, 8 G-1's, 5 Rodie and 2 STG kits. Those were the days. [Hyper]

[BPTactical]

I picked 3 very clean Imbels for $185.00 each in 07.
Shoulda never sold them.....


Go ahead Jerry, show your receipt.
It just confirms YOUR A CHEAP FAL WHORE[Gas1]

[jerrymrc]

It just confirms YOUR A CHEAP FAL WHORE Well, Duh....[hammer] [Flower] I have a few tricks up my sleeve for this one that will make you scratch your head. [werdo]

[BPTactical]

You make me scratch my head anyway Jerry.........

[USMC88-93]

I just pulled my Fal out of the safe for the first time in years and got it running. Since I haven't touched it in years its like having a new rifle.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v651/PhotoTWB/Weapons/FAL/SR-25andDSASTG-58C.jpg

[Great-Kazoo]

What small parts you looking for? I have some crap somewhere in boxes you might be looking for.

[jerrymrc]

What small parts you looking for? I have some crap somewhere in boxes you might be looking for.

I think I got em all but will do a complete check today. It was nice to be one of the old members and have friends from the FF. DeltaTen had one, Sig220 had one and the Homeboys in Oregon had a couple.



I just pulled my Fal out of the safe for the first time in years and got it running. Since I haven't touched it in years its like having a new rifle. I saw that Para the other day. DSA or Falcon folder? I have one lower here I cut to do a Para years ago but never got around to it.

[USMC88-93]

DSA STG-58C Para
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v651/PhotoTWB/Weapons/FAL/STG58CP.gif

[jerrymrc]

Receiver showed up at the FFL today. Since it has been years and we never done one here I will do a blow-by-blow on building a Fal from a kit. Stay tuned. And speaking of those Fal kits and receivers I was offered an Imbel kit and gear logo receiver for $1000 today so if one wants a Fal for cheap (these days) let me know.

[jerrymrc]

DSA STG-58C Para
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v651/PhotoTWB/Weapons/FAL/STG58CP.gif

Just looks strange since the 50.63's never came that way. But having dealt with DSA for over 15 years and building some strange things myself..... [Flower]

[BPTactical]

Jerry you, you















Mffff!

[jerrymrc]

Jerry you, you




Mffff!

You want that Kit and gear logo, admit it. Was still there today. [Flower]

[Mazin]

God I want another Fal Bad. Out of all the guns I have sold the one I regret most is my SAR48. I'm tuned in and can wait to see the build!

[jerrymrc]

Only took 10 days for the CBI to come through. So next we look at the parts and what to do with them. Some general Fal tips and tricks will commence.[Flower]

[jerrymrc]

So back in the day you bought a kit. Some came with the center section that you removed the Ejector block, bolt catch, locking shoulder and mag catch and some came with those parts removed. From 96-2004 one could buy many different kits. STG's and Izzy's for $125-$200 and G-1/Imbel/R-1 for $79-$100. By 2007 kits were $200-$400 depending. And ya get a history lesson to boot. Upper receivers were $150-$300.

Kits. http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac44/jerrymrc/toys/nextold-pics819Medium.jpg

http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac44/jerrymrc/toys/nextold-pics322Medium.jpg

http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac44/jerrymrc/toys/oldgroup373.jpg

http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac44/jerrymrc/toys/oldgroup314Medium.jpg

[ChunkyMonkey]

Tag... for some reason I don't get notice even when I sub this thread.

[jerrymrc]

So now here we go. Most kits have seen better days. The early STG kits and if you got lucky and got an arsenal refinished kit did not need to be refinished. Some love the BTDT look of baby shit camo of the Rhodies.

Everything needs to be stripped and then it is off to the blast cabinet. I wipe everything down after and some things will need to be heated to draw out the oil and Fal's have places for it to hide. Some items I tape off like the chrome on the gas plug.

Depending on the model and the builders preference Fals can be parked, paint, paint over park or pick the finish of your choice. I have mine and it works very well but just remember that the canvas is everything. 20047

And since it has been awhile I made a mistake in the above photo. I forgot to pull the rear sight. This makes for a fun problem because the media gets into the space to move the sight. I will just work it and blow it with air until I can get it loose.[panic]Then blast again. And that item in the lower right is the handguard ring. it is the one part that has caused more gnashing of teeth ever. You will find out why (and why DSA sells a fix) later. [Flower]

[jerrymrc]

And this build is about metric Fal's. To the untrained eye they all look alike save for things like the Izzy's the bipod on g-1's and STG's wood or plastic and of course the Para. with some parts from Falcon or DSA a regular Fal can be converted to a Para. Bolt carrier, top cover/springs, stock and stock adapter are needed. A normal Fal lower can be converted to a Para with just a little work and parts.

Besides the FN designations Fal's are known as a type 1,2,3 with a straight or humpback stock in style a,b,c. There are other things but these are the basics. except for some of the Izzy stuff almost any combination of metric parts will build one. Plastic stocks are all type b. wood stocks come in a,b,c.

Type "A" stocks is all very early. The one thing is the type 1 and 2 fals have extra cuts in many places to make them lighter.

Some examples.
DSA type 1 upper= 630 grams
Imbel type 3 upper= 735 grams

G-1/STG lower= 526 grams
Imbel lower= 576 grams

Belgian gas block= 103
Imbel= 112

Steel mags= 225 grams
Alloy mags= 108

Will show some pic's later.

[def90]

http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac44/jerrymrc/toys/oldgroup314Medium.jpg


I'll take it!!


Oh wait, wrong forum combined with conditioned response.. :D

[BPTactical]

I still hate you Jerry......




I think of the parts kits and builds I let go[Bang]

[zteknik]

Damn Jerry,makes me wish I got into FALs back then,but instead I was doing AKs [Dunno]
Leason learned-diversify!!

Those will come out sweet!!

[William]

I you can make that fugly box of parts in the OP look as good as your other FALs (which all look great btw), I will be very envious.

[jerrymrc]

I you can make that fugly box of parts in the OP look as good as your other FALs (which all look great btw), I will be very envious.

Piece of cake.
but instead I was doing AKs should have done both.

[zteknik]

Piece of cake. should have done both.
I thought about it then ,but what kinda threw me off from doing them was the whole metric and inch pattern stuff.
Figured it was more trouble than it was worth..Now I know better.
Funny how age makes one a bit wiser...

[jerrymrc]

Been doing a little but today we will barrel/time/headspace. pictures later.

There are still some deals out there but a friend of mine just sold a kit for what has to be a world record for Rhodie kits. Some will pay big $$ for lots of original paint. http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=326442329


(http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=326442329)

[jerrymrc]

So today was kind of like the old build parties. We barreled two and re-barreled one then checked the head space on all. two are going to take a .260 locking shoulder and one a .262. Only one pic came out but I will take a couple more. This one is done and belongs to another forum member.

I also shortened my barrel to 17.5" and installed a gas block. this will mean that we will need to re drill and open up the gas port a little.

If you notice the hanguard ring one must remember to install it first or you will be buying the 2 piece from DSA.

20249

A pic of the barreled receiver. It is 3-1/2" shorter and with the brake I am going to use but this one is off my other Fal. I want to thank BP Tactical for all the help today.[Flower] 20251

[jerrymrc]

Will try and get a little more done and post some more pic's but been real busy trying to go TDY.

[BPTactical]

It was fun!

[jerrymrc]

Got some time today so I did a little. More blasting and then some refinishing. Now the product I have used has always served me well. I have firearms refinished with this that are going on 12 years but if you look out on the net there is a very mixed reaction and just like any paint project the canvas and prep are key.

The product I use is no longer available but since it stores well you may find it somewhere. Diplicolor 1200 high heat black. I hear the EPA killed it and also if you like there 500 engine enamel the EPA has killed it as of feb 1st. I do not recommend the 500 for firearms. When prepped right and applied right and baked right I have found this to be very durable. I blast then wipe down with thinner. preheat a little and give a few light coats.

Once baked it just gets stronger with age. It will not peel or flake and soaks up oil like park. After baking I like to let the parts sit for a few days before I assemble but if applied right it is very thin and will not make any kind of clearance issues in pin holes or threads.

I bake parts in my $15 project oven so as not to piss off the wife. Very easy to make and does not take up a lot of room. I also use this paint in automotive restorations as the final finish is real close to black phosphate. I bought a toaster oven at a garage sale. drilled a bunch of 1" holes in the top.

Flanged a piece of 8" duct and riveted it to the top. wrapped it with insulation and now you have a thermostat controlled baking oven for cheap. Little parts go on the tray in the bottom and longer stuff gets hung from the top.Cover with a piece of foil and bake. 20641206432064520647

[jerrymrc]

Baked. A few pic's. For those that might be wondering the last pic is for compatibility. The barrel is painted and the brake is parked. Next progress after my TDY. 20679206812068320685

[zteknik]

Nice work Jerry!
Do you park before you paint?
I used up my last can of 1200 before I left New York,that stuff was the best!!

[jerrymrc]

Nice work Jerry!
Do you park before you paint?
I used up my last can of 1200 before I left New York,that stuff was the best!!

Some stuff. The upper was parked and I cleaned it good then just backed up on the blaster to give it a light etch before paint. I still have 2 cans of the 1200 left plus a can of silver. I did find a place that has some but they are out of black.

And I have 10 cans of the 500 ceramic in various colors coming. I am glad that some paints last just about forever in rattle cans. I still have lacquer in some things just because the modern urethane and enamels do not look right in the restoration world. [Flower]

In order to make some of the stash last drastic measures are taken. For the old GM radiator supports and inner fender wells I shoot a thinned coat of DP-40 epoxy as a base and after it cures I use one coat of 60 gloss lacquer on top.[Coffee]

[jerrymrc]

Hope to get a bunch done this weekend. Tonight we did the gas port. Two reasons for this. We swapped the gas block out on the now 17.5" barrel. Fal's have the gas block mounted first and then the factory drilled the locating pin and gas hols from the factory. if you just remove one and try and install another the holes will not line up unless you are very lucky.

After some measuring Bert trimmed .015 off the block and I pressed it on. Pin and gas holes lined up just right but we have chopped the barrel. If going to a 16" I prefer to go with the short gas system but that is a whole other thread. @ 21" the stock fal uses a .093 hole or about a #42 bit. My first step will be to a #36 or .106.5 Always start small but the general rule is .093-.095 for 21, .105-.110 for 18" and .110-.120 for 16".

Many guns have been rode hard and with the leakage may need the stock port opened up even with a 21" barrel. Try and run the smallest port you can get away with. The barrels are hard and the bits are small so always use the best bits, go slow and use lots of cutting fluid. More tomorrow.[Flower]2159121595

[jerrymrc]

So the rest of the parts that needed blast and paint were finished today. They are in the oven as I type. 21685 Not everything was disassembled as far as it could go. but for this one it will be fine. Depending on how original one wants their kit to look depends on what you use for 922r parts. Used to be able to make one compliant for very cheap but not today and many items are no longer available.

If all else fails there is always DSA but I am cheap. I need 7 parts. Gas piston, upper receiver, handgrip, Muzzle brake, Hammer, sear and a floorplate will be the items or if I want to forgo the wood stock I have a US one that may go on first. Stay tuned.

[jerrymrc]

After today I am not much in the mood to type so I will just throw some pictures up. 2185321855218572185921861218632186521867

[jerrymrc]

More pictures tomorrow but one needs to pay attention to the 4th and 5th pic above. The gas tube, gas nut and gas tube retaining nut all go on as one. The gas tube needs to be threaded all the way in then backed off to put the retaining pin in. I has to be flush or the adjusting nut will not turn freely. The gas nut holds it in place.

The retaining nut also holds the carry handle so have it in place when you tighten it down.

[zteknik]

Looking good Jerry!
Cant wait to see the final product and range report [Beer]

[jerrymrc]

So we are going to get this done sort of. The lower. Install the frame lock and cross pin. then the take down lever and lock. 22075


Now for the HTS. Many talk about "trigger jobs" The Fal can be improved to have a nice .100 take up and a crisp release but simple is the key. Lets look at what NOT to do to a sear. I have no idea why but this one was taken out of a rifle I was asked to fix. There is only about .030 of engagement with the hammer so why one would grind this is beyond me but the one on the left I always get a kick out of. . 22077

So the US hammer we are using is from FSE These had issues but one of the things was a double that due to a casting flash was causing the sear to bounce away from the hammer. Stock and the fix. NEVER get near the hammer engagement to fix this A stock hammer is on the top. . 2207922081So now we just put them all together. 22083 The lock slides into the hammer pin and rotates to be locked by the selector. 22085 Install the trigger plunger, Hammer spring, trigger guard and hand grip2208722089 Then the rear sight, and buttstock and should be about done. 22091

[jerrymrc]

So I still have to install a few things and work over the buttstock but this should give you an idea of what it should look like in the end. Not bad from a pile of junk.[Flower] 220932209522097

BTW about the pistol grip. Years ago you could buy these. This is important on a Fal because without a semi only selector or the pistol grip the selector will move to the full auto position. Without the "safety sear" 22099 Shown how it keeps the hammer from falling before the bolt is home the hammer will ride the carrier resulting in a single shot weapon.

Celt, Def90 and some others can attest that Barny fife gets all jiggy about that selector going to the position and the hammer falling. Many Fal's have been sent off to the BATF because of this. Even though we know what will happen it is better safe than sorry when it comes to this.

[Post Toastie]

So I still have to install a few things and work over the buttstock but this should give you an idea of what it should look like in the end. Not bad from a pile of junk.[Flower] 220932209522097

Jerry,

What did you have to do to get the muzzle brake timed to 12:00?

Oh, and you're welcome for sparking the project.[Beer]

[jerrymrc]

Jerry,

What did you have to do to get the muzzle brake timed to 12:00?

Oh, and you're welcome for sparking the project.[Beer]

The one I got from Kev timed just perfect. Luck of the draw. The other one I did not try since it has some solder in it and I need to tap it for the 300BLK. I see me needing a crush washer for that one.

[jerrymrc]

And so ya do not like the wood and want a little more modern. Just make it all black. Might throw a dot on it as well. Back in the day we used to joke about the lays potato chip thing.
Yes, I am a Fal Ho.[Coffee]22137

[def90]

Great looking FAL, I like the wood myself.. I like the oven setup you have as well. [Beer]

[ChunkyMonkey]

If 308 aren't so pricey right now, this looks fun.

[jerrymrc]

If 308 aren't so pricey right now, this looks fun.

IMO of all the .308 battle rifles the Fal is the biggest pussycat. Sadly the days of .308 surplus @ $129 per K are gone. I have another 5K of loading .308 cheap before I start to [panic]


I like the oven setup you have as well. Your always welcome to borrow it. [Beer] It sits unused for a year at a time and works well in a garage.