View Full Version : Threading a barrel for future use of a silencer?
there are standard threads for different calibers.
I'm no machinist or gunsmith but I've not heard of people using die to thread barrels, always on a lathe. The bore may not be centered on the end of the barrel and the OD is usually wrong.
TheBelly
03-03-2013, 18:53
pay a professional to do this.
XC700116
03-03-2013, 19:00
1/2"-28 is the standard thread for a 5.56/.223.
And yeah you don't need a die, take it to a GOOD gunsmith, one that actually builds guns, not just assembles parts, and pay them to do it. Unless of course you are a qualified machinist and can get the threads concentric to the bore using a lathe. Although I'm assuming you are not since you're looking to buy a die for it.
It's not as big of a deal for a flash suppressor, but when it comes to a regular suppressor you don't want to end up ruining your $1000 investment the first time you pull the trigger because of a baffle strike due to a shoddy threading job.
BPTactical
03-03-2013, 19:03
For a 5.56 rifle the most common thread pattern is 1/2 x 28 TPI x .600.Do not attempt it on your own, I do this stuff all day.Come see me, the cost is reasonable and you will know the threads are concentric and axially aligned to the bore.
Lots of good smiths to do this work properly, Bert @ BP Tactical is the goto guy around here. Stay away from a generic machine shop. There's more to it than cutting threads.
1/2x28 is the standard for 5.56 and will get you the threads for a FH or can mount. Put a Smith Vortex on there until you decide on a can/mount system. Midway had the new style Vortex in stock for $52.
If you're still coming to Colorado, some LEO won't sign off on Form 4. Douglas County Sheriff is one. I'm sure there's a list in the NFA forum. You'll probably want to go the trust route. Good NFA trust lawyer right here on the board just did mine.
BPTactical
03-03-2013, 20:12
I would not trust a run of the mill machine shop.
Just send me the barrel.
TheBelly
03-03-2013, 20:47
duh. I don't have any tools or equipment to do this on my own. but I guess if you had read my post in it's entirety you would have seen where I said I wanted to take it to the machine shop.
thank you. if I bought a tap and took it to a machine shop would that be advisable?:)
A machine shop isn't a professional gunsmith. I read your post in its entirety.
dont sell yourself short about the "I may be a girl but I'm not dumb" comment. 'Smart' or 'dumb' is not a respecter of gender. Get past that. No one cares of you're a girl, a guy, both, or neither..... Maybe I'm speaking out of turn, but I don't think we care here whether you're a dude or a chick.
XC700116
03-03-2013, 20:51
There's no need to buy tooling, take it to the shop, they have the tooling, and if they don't, you don't want them working on your rifle. If the machine shop specializes in firearms then I'd say they can probably get it done, However, I would opt for a high quality smith like Bert
hurley842002
03-03-2013, 21:24
You mentioned in "the future" you'd like to have this done, seems to me 2 months and 9 days would be worth the wait, to have a highly qualified and highly recommended gun smith *cough* bptactical *cough* do the work, as opposed to trying to find someone right now, and take a chance on getting poor workmanship, then you'd have to deal with them all the way from Colorado if for some reason things weren't right. Just my 2 cents.
XC700116
03-03-2013, 21:34
You mentioned in "the future" you'd like to have this done, seems to me 2 months and 9 days would be worth the wait, to have a highly qualified and highly recommended gun smith *cough* bptactical *cough* do the work, as opposed to trying to find someone right now, and take a chance on getting poor workmanship, then you'd have to deal with them all the way from Colorado if for some reason things weren't right. Just my 2 cents.
He's got a point, if you're moving here.
USNrigger
03-03-2013, 21:36
To answer your question 1/2x28 is the standard thread with a shank length of .635" for 223/5.56, i assume this is the caliber you have. If your looking to run a suppressor down the road you need to have the theads cut concentric to the bore and not dialed in off the outside of the barrel. A good machinist should be able to do this for you if no Smithy in the area, but he needs to have some idea of firearms and what your going to be doing with the suppressor. You need to have all the info and how you want it done when you talk to him. You can cut theads two ways; flanking and radial. I prefer to cut theads radial as IMO it gives a cleaner cut, but both will work as long as done correctly.
That being said i would find a good gunsmith in the area as they have a idea of what is needed when you say i need threads cut to run a suppressor. Id say your looking at around $70-$120 plus any shipping needed. If you send in just the barrel for service it will cost you less as no disassembly is going to be needed. ADCO Firearms has a great following if you want to send it out to them or you could send it to the closest gunsmith with a good reputation for this service.
USNRigger
hurley842002
03-03-2013, 22:03
My bad, must have read your post wrong. Chill out, you came to us, we did not come to you. Everyone here is offering sound advice, and trying to help you. We aren't trying to undermine your intelligence because you are a female, we are talking to you the same way we talk to everyone....
hurley842002
03-03-2013, 22:30
fair enough lol, sorry not trying to be defensive. but no offense taken. :) thanks for all the help. I think I found a good gunsmith nearby and sent him an email. waiting for a response.
No worries. Everyone (almost everyone anyway lol) here is really cool, and would bend over backward for a fellow enthusiast, so we really are wanting you to find your solution :) . Hope you get it squared away :beer:
TheBelly
03-03-2013, 22:42
Here's the weird question: do you only shoot one caliber? If you shoot a 30 caliber rifle also, like a .308 or .300 blk, then you could get your barrel threaded for the larger caliber and use it on both rifles....
BPTactical
03-03-2013, 23:43
To answer your question 1/2x28 is the standard thread with a shank length of .635" for 223/5.56. You can cut theads two ways; flanking and radial. I prefer to cut theads radial as IMO it gives a cleaner cut, but both will work as long as done correctly.
USNRigger
.620 is the standard callout for overall shank length with a max .060 thread relief. I have found anything in excess of .600 OAL shank length to be too long in some instances, frequently muzzle devices fall a smidge short on full depth thread length resulting in the device bottoming on the threads short of contacting the crush washer. This has been more prevalent lately, probably because of manufacturers cranking stuff out so fact. QC suffers.
If the shank ends up too long you now get to re-chuck and index the barrel and recut/crown the muzzle.
You just lost money and if the can indexes off of the crown or shoulder(you are freshing the shoulder, right) you can never be 100% certain the crown and shoulder are perpendicular to the bore and threads.
The second statement is curious, radial threads are generally regarded as the least desireable method of tool infeed for 60 degree threads and it is reserved for small diameter and Acme/Buttress threads where threadform ground tools are required(a bitch). Your tool loading is 3x that of flanking threads which promotes overheating of the tool. It also causes issues in alloys that do not shear well such as stainless. It also can cause your minor diameter to be incorrect vs pitch diameter unless your tool is perfectly ground (unlikely) and leaves the least desirable root profile.
Practice your flanking technique and you will get better threads.
I want to get the threading part done now. it needs a muzzle brake on it anyhow, as it's throwing flames 2 feet long.
I think you want a flash hider not a muzzle brake. The other people at the range (and your own ears) will prefer that.
Though it would lock you into one vendor for a suppressor later, there are flash hiders that are also mounts for the suppressor. That way once it is installed you dont have to remove it later.
timmyp30
03-29-2013, 10:13
pay a professional gun smith
Don't waste your breath. OP bailed and hasn't been heard of since. Some people don't take constructive criticism well.
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