What are the pros and the cons of a Clamp on gas block vs a pinned gas block? Do you guys have a stong opinion one way or another?
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What are the pros and the cons of a Clamp on gas block vs a pinned gas block? Do you guys have a stong opinion one way or another?
Clamp on-easier for the kitchen table Gunplumber to install-easily removed-if you oops on your first attempt easy to realign. They can come loose but if you Loctite the screws usually not a problem. Greater chance of a gas leak-Bulkier and heavier most times.
Pinned-Not for the faint of heart to install, you only have one chance to get it right-more of a permanent install-You need an accurate method to precisely drill the block/barrel-you need taper reamers and need to know how to use them which most DIYers dont.-usually lighter. One less thing to worry about falling off.
They both have their place in the world. If you are the type that changes front ends or think your rifle is an erector set and want to try a bunch of different set ups or take it apart then the bolt on has merit.
I prefer the pinned style myself-once it is correctly installed you typically dont ever have to worry about it.
The K.I.S.S. theory.
+1 I run a DD clamp on, on mine because I did not feel like dicking around with the pin on one. I put mine on and don't mess with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by BPTactical
Thanks guys really good information!!!!!
clamp on are also good if you have your flash hider perminetly attached
Some clamp ons are aluminum, some are steel. I have read elsewhere that the steel ones are less likely to come loose.
The ones to avoid, again only from the homework I have recently done, is the set screw type. Clamp on or pinned is the way to go.
The biggest issue I have seen with aluminum blocks is the gas channel will eventually erode. Think about it-searing hot gas @ 60,000 PSI vs aluminum.
Set screws rarely give trouble if one installs them correctly.
I read somewhere the aluminum was ok for semi auto, but if you had full auto you definitely wanted to the steel. The article mentioned movement,not erosion, if that helps. From a durability standpoint, I would think steel would be better. If you ahve set screws in the bottom, I have seen some manufacturers drill a dimple into the barrel that way the set screw would not allow the block to twist or slide. You might also condier roughing the smooth surface of the barrel under the original FSB. If it is already parkerized you ar eprobably ok with that - the theory being that the rough surface will help with friction and hopefully eliminate twist or sliding.