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Why not just put a muzzle nut on it then.
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naked muzzle, ( no flashhider/compensator ) is ideal for accuracy.
with that said i dont see how any decent flash hider or compensator will hurt accuracy if installed correctly.
also need to ask yourself what exactly you want out of it, if you just was flash suppression than a AAC black out or Vortex would be best. For compensation of recoil then the bigger muzzle brakes that you see alot of 3 gun people using. Or maybe you need a combenation of different things.
For example I just built a SPR upper with a 18 noveske barrel. I just used a standard A2 hider because I wanted decent flash hiding, some compensation, and one that only hase the ports facing up so there is less dirt kick up when fired, and was short, i didnt want to make my barrel any longer than I had to.
I'd say find out exactly what you want out of it and pick from that. install with a peel washer lock tight and just torque by hand.
The most accurate high power service rifles are using plain A2 hiders, with peel washers
If you are paying $400 for a muzzle brake, you are looking in the wrong place. Even Sure-Fire 338 Lapua Suppressor adaptors are not more than $200.
A well made brake will not affect accuracy.
If you are worried, take the barrel to a gunsmith and have him chop off the threads and recrown it.
I have a Miculek brake on the end of my 3-gun AR. It works great and costs around $60. Personally, on similarly built rifles, I don't notice enough of a difference between $20 Stags and $400 super fancy brakes to justify the cost difference outside of excessive material and machining. I'm not sure what they do for long range accuracy, but if you're only looking at that aspect I'm sure it makes even less of a difference.
For the absolute finest in accuracy a naked, correctly crowned muzzle is going to be the best.
I will agree with the above comment on installation, this is probably a much larger factor than the actual brake design. If you just use a crush washer and torque it down you have done a couple of things:
1- you are assuming the crush washer deforms(crushes) evenly. It is not uncommon for it to deform unevenly and depending on the class of fit of the threads it can "cock" the muzzle device slightly. No big deal on a typical flash hider but if a brake is cocked it can cause a slight difference in the way the gases act on the round and worst case, shave the round. Hence the use of shim/peel washers.
2-if you just torque it down you stand the chance of actually distorting the threaded section of the muzzle and can impart unusual stresses on the muzzle.
If I am putting together a rifle for accuracy and the owner wants a brake I like to time the brake so it actually "overtimes" a touch, maybe 12:15-12:30. That way when it is installed for the final time @ 12 o'clock a touch of red loctite holds it in place but the brake is not actually touching the shoulder of the barrel. No chance of imparting any undue stresses on the threaded/muzzle portion of the barrel.
What Bert said. Also, if you worried about the crown, he does excellent work if you want him to install a comp and time it. He cut down a 20" barrel for me that wasn't shooting at all well. He cut it to 17", turned the barrel down in diameter, turned and threaded the end of the barrel and put a nice crown on it. I put on a SJC/Lund brake with a peel washer and the gun now shoots less than an inch where I couldn't get it to shoot less than 1.5-2.0" groups before.
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