Yeah I need to fix the buffer issue
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Yeah I need to fix the buffer issue
Probably, do you have another buffer you can try? What is the gas length, barrel length and current buffer?
Disclaimer: I have no factually based experience for why I was asking the above questions. Take all advice given from me with a grain of powder. [LOL]
And to commiserate with you, I still haven't zeroed my Savage Mark II-FV tackdriver rifle. I'll mount the scope in the signature zee rings with adjustable inserts, get it zeroed, then decide I have no internal adjustments left, so I'll dismount my scope and use different ring inserts (it comes in -10, 0 and +10 moa that you can adjust the front and rear rings by, giving a total of 20moa of adjustment). Then I rezero and realize its perfect, but that I want to shoot at 100+ yds and I screwed up the zero again and then I use other inserts.
Interestingly enough, if I use +20moa inserts, I can not zero the scope at 100yds, which is very odd. If I had more .22 ammo, I'd go figure it out once and for all, but frankly, I'm running too low on that to care lol.
Grabbed some more donated .22 LR ammo for the boy scout merit badge shoot. Got a total of 1575 rounds from forum members to add to my 1050. [Ban1]
Yea, unfortunately that's what I think I'm going to end up needing to do with it. I bought the burris signature zees because i thought I could use those instead of the +20moa rail if I actually needed that much extra travel. And I bought the medium rings that would give me about 0.090" clearance under the bell to the barrel, but if I get the 20moa rail, that will raise the scope bell up at least another 0.125", making that gap closer to 1/4"-5/16" than 1/8".
Hmm, how was it behaving? Because I didn't think it was advisable to use a heavier than carbine buffer on carbine gas length when shorter than 14.5". What kind of ammo, was it good brass or cheap steel cased?
eta: Granted I know that different situations/rifles warrant/require different buffers for no reason sometimes. But I'm no expert...at least in guns [LOL]
I was running Pmc brass 55gr. It's modeled after a DD rifle and their version comes with an H buffer so I'm going to give it a shot.
How was it malfunctioning though? I'm honestly curious now.
My 16" carbine had an H buffer and with wolf (steel cased) it was short cycling and not ejecting the spent case, so I dropped back down to the carbine. Only went up to the H because people said it would seriously change the felt recoil (it didn't lol).
I should add the issue I was having was that the would cycle some times and have a failure to feed. Then sometimes it would be a failure to eject or the bolt wouldn't even cycle. Just turned into a one shot wonder.
That sounds to me like the buffer you currently have is TOO heavy, in that the gasses aren't high enough to push that buffer far enough back to fully cycle the next round (that's my understanding of the process). Do you have a semi-auto or FA BCG? Which BCG profile does the DD rifle use? (and I assume you mean Daniel Defense not Double D because we all like Double D more...)
Were you shooting it suppressed? I know that suppressors change the way the gas impingement operates.
eta: OR the ammo was lower powered and doesn't create high enough pressures to push that buffer back all the way. Have any 556 you can run through just to test that theory?
e-eta: And if anyone else has more experience, PLEASE set me straight! LOL I'm not claiming that what I am saying is accurate, but it is my current understanding and I honestly haven't had much experience playing around with buffers.
Yo, Bitches.
Hope we have a good week.
Hey dudes, I'll be doing some serious catching up this week... I'm working graves. [Bang]
Stoner, if its any help, I have a 7.5" .223/5.56 SBR upper with a pistol length gas system. I can put it on any of my lowers and it still cycles with either carbine or regular buffer. With a carbine buffer it ejects to the 1:30-2:00 position, which is pretty aggressive, but it still functions fine.
Is it a factory assembled upper or home built? BC asked some good questions in his most recent post above.
Oh wait, HB, you mean I actually might know what I'm talking about?! [Tooth]
It's a beautiful sky this a.m.
Noob question for the reloading post whores: I just tumbled my first brass with some Lyman tufnut media and it left all of the brass polished, but with a reddish dust coating, so the brass looks pretty dirty, almost a bronze color. Did I do something wrong? It wipes right off, but it seems like a huge PITA to wipe every case clean. What is the secret here? I did a bunch of searches and it seems like maybe a dryer sheet or two would have prevented this?
Stoner,
You are welcome to try some of the PCI 55gr (group buy) stuff, I've chrono'd it at NATO MV. I'd be happy to let you have 20 rounds for testing, or swap 100rds for anything you have. We can also head out to BLGC one day this week if you like and can find the time.
PM me if you like, or if you still have my number, call.
Yup, you forgot to add a dryer sheet. I usually tear them into 2-3 pieces when I tumble, and toss them out after each tumbling session.
I also have a pasta strainer that I put all of the brass in after tumbling and swirl it around a bit to get the last of the tumbler media off and also to knock off any dust. If you haven't figured it out too, you might want to do the tumbling outside because dust gets everywhere if you do it inside (although some people do tumble inside and deal with it).
Added several dryer sheets and it is still leaving all my brass with a fine coat of reddish dust... More dryer sheets?
Were they already used dryer sheets or brand new? Sorry, should have clarified. If you use new sheets, they are coated with crap that makes your brass clingy. If you use sheets that were in the dryer/clothes already, it works better.
Could just be the media you are using too. I haven't changed my media in a LONG time, and it still gets my brass super clean and super shiny in 2-3hrs.
Just my luck.
Was driving down the mountain from work last night, and my check engine light came on in my car. Pulled over, stopped engine, started it back up and it was still there. Drove home. After waking up this afternoon, I checked it and still there. Checked all fluids, everything good. All fuses good to.
Drove over to Oreilly's, light still on the entire drive over. The guy comes out with the code reader and we hook it up. He then says, it won't read a code if the CEL isn't on. [facepalm] The stupid light went out the SECOND I go to the auto parts store.
Bliyat!
http://imgur.com/a/j9eBj
Whores talking about guns, just nasty I tell you.
^^^ This... when the kid and I were at Firing Line on Friday, he was comparing his factory PMC bronze 9 loads to our home loads. He said "seems like our loads are hotter than my PMC".
I was running UMC factory and our start loads, and hardly noticed a difference. FWIW