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That plate gear has one less tooth and is used to make the engagement more quiet. The Isuzu board says not to bother with it. I have to wonder if that is part of the reason that trucks with low gears (my neighbor) sound like an R/C car when in low. I'm getting pretty close, excited to wrap it up. My new flywheel shows up Saturday, so hopefully it'll all be down hill by then.
Next pull the remaining rail out. Like Lorenzo said, the new rail has a relief cut to accommodate the larger idler gear.
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You can see that even with the relief, the clearance is close.
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Next you have to pull the gears from the input shaft. This has been on the left in all of my pictures so far, and looks like this.
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Don't do this!
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Because this will happen, if you're lucky it will only be this bad.
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Instead, put your clam shell puller under both gears, and make sure not to smash the snap ring hanging loose down there as well. This picture was taken after I pressed the gears off in the with the hydraulic press. The gear in my hand is the grey gear that Lorenzo was talking about being brittle.
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https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0
The gear I'm holding is the other gear you are replacing. It lifts right off that bearing, and the new one slips right on. Be careful of those needle bearings.
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Use the press to fit everything back on, but watch as it seats and don't use too much press, or you shatter that grey gear like this, and swear so loud that your neighbors ask if you are okay (but didn't actually check to make sure that you were).
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0
Now I have to go pull another T-case for sure and join the club of others that have messed this up. To be continued...
The casting on this flywheel looks pretty bad. It's for sure not centered. Does this matter? It seems like it should matter for a spinning part, but I just don't know.
Look where I'm pointing on the right. The grooves are hardly even there.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0
This center ring is not concentric at all. Way more space on the right side than the left.
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Are these acceptable tolerances? This is a LUK flywheel off Amazon. I was going to install the clutch until I can get back to doing the low gears in the T-case, but this has me questioning if I should even install this or not.
I wish we had an experience mechanic around here to answer questions like this.
That looks way off. Technically as long as it balances Sb ok. But it looks like they machined it way off. It might not be a real LUK, but a reject from LUK
LUK has a webpage where you check authenticity:
https://www.luk-us.com/content.schae...heck/index.jsp
Thanks, there is a scanner code thing on the box that takes me to that website, but otherwise there is nothing on the box or flywheel that has a code in that style. Concerning.
Sounds like a fake, since the website says the flywheel should have those identifying features. Since it’s from Amazon, I’d just return it and get one from a different vendor. Not worth the risk of using it, IMO.
I think I'm about there as well. I sent the pictures to my mechanic buddy and he said that level of quality is about the norm and it should be balanced after casting so it shouldn't matter. That doesn't change the fact that the Amazon vendor shouldn't be selling fakes though.
Based on a few forum discussions there are a lot of fakes on Amazon now. Most will come in genuine looking boxes.
Got transfer case? Ugh.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0