OK, thanks. It seems I have a time bomb in my house, which can only be fixed by having Aurora water turn off the water to my block.
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OK, thanks. It seems I have a time bomb in my house, which can only be fixed by having Aurora water turn off the water to my block.
Im near certain if you're in a condo, there is a curb stop for the building & shutting the water off for the entire block is unnecessary. Im not a plumber however so I could be mistaken but from the information you've shared... his assessment sounds wrong to me.
Before my water heater failed, I had zero get buy, and after my water heat, I have zero get buy.
During the installation of the new water heater, the installer warned me that my shut off valve was not working correctly.
I told him that it worked as intended, as I turned off the water when I realized I had a problem.
He told me again, that he selected a leak, but he had another valve downstream that he trusted.
Is this the water heater supply shut off ? Or your main incoming shut off ? I was assuming main shut off since you were alluding to the back flow preventer picture, and all main water lines since the 1970s have anti siphon valves.
Nothing was shut off, until I realized I had a problem (heard water leaking).
When I realized I had water leaking from the water heater, I turned off the blue valve, which I thought would stop water from coming in to the apartment.
All my spigots immediately stopped giving water.
This is what turning off the water main is supposed to do?
But meanwhile, the guy fixing my water heater says that my main water valve is broken, and he will need to call Aurora water to fix it.
I see why you're leary. This kind of scam is growing in the plumbing industry.
Pics, post pics.
Where's your water Meter?
I suspect your shutoff gate valve (could be a globe valve but unlikely) is located only after the meter. I believe this was supposed to keep people from tampering with or diverting water around the meter.
However, there could be a water shutoff valve before and possibly after. Another at the Water heater.
When Parker Water District replaced our meters in 2019, I took the opportunity to replace and relocate my sometimes leaky gate valve with a 1/4 turn ball valve immediately before and immediately after the new meter (the installer's recommendation). There's also one at the water heater and of course for the sprinkler feed line so I can turn off the water at different points if needed. With the new tech, they can tell if your water usage patterns change and they'll come looking. Hell, I even got a notice that I might have a leak, and sure as hell (already knew) I did as I had a dripping faucet that needed attention.
The gate valve had been in the house since it was built in 1982 but had been a problem for many years. It would leak when operated and for some time after full open, so yes the valve packing around the shaft wears out and the gate track gets rust and mineral deposits built up making them hard to turn.
You can possibly replace the packing nut washer with the water on if the valve has a retaining bonnet but if you don't know what you're doing and it comes apart under pressure, it's going to be ugly. Best to get the water shut off and replace the old gate valve with a ball valve (or two).
https://www.levcocare.com/wp-content...all-valves.jpg
Last week, I bought (downgraded to) Burris XTRII 8-40x50mm F-class MOA scope last week.
This week, I bought (downgraded to) Vortex PST GEN II 5-25x50mm EBR7C MOA scope and just arrived.
I replaced ~16 year old Japanese Nikon Tactical with Vortex PST II, and ~15yr old NF with Burris F-Class MOA.
Europtics has Vortex for 799.99.
Only upgrade I see it was a magnification increase upgrade.
https://i.imgur.com/UTuPhm0.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/O5iaoKk.jpg