Nope idles great bogs hard at wot which may be something I did when I pulled the carb apartQuote:
Originally Posted by Trigg3r Happy
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Nope idles great bogs hard at wot which may be something I did when I pulled the carb apartQuote:
Originally Posted by Trigg3r Happy
Sounds like jetting. As previously stated if you didn't remove and clean the jets, they are probably clogged.
I pulled all the jets out and cleaned quite well them not my first time playing with a mikuni carb and its tiny little passages had a 79 Suzuki 750 with 4 of them grrr
I agreeQuote:
Originally Posted by Jmetz
You replace the fuel lines? Sometimes the most head scratching problem has the simplest fix, especially if it's been sitting. What's another $4-5 in line? ALSO one other area that causes loss of power is the petcock. Sediment, gunk, broke down fuel line shit can clog the screen just enough to restrict fuel.Quote:
Originally Posted by DFBrews
Bike shops are traditionally closed on mondays so the employees can have two days off.. since they are traditionally open on saturdays too ...
Esp since they are often mom and pop type operations ( like Tfogs) there are no days off when you are open . Besides... monday day rides in the mountains RULE.. less traffic
carb have an accelerator pump? spent too much time in the past chasing ap probs. If not check for air leaks on the intake boot. Valve adjustment always a good idea also.
Rotella 15-40 (diesel engine oil) is one of the best oils you can run in a wet clutch motor. No friction modifiers and high in zinc. My engine builder recommended it to me and the race motor in my quad has lasted much longer than I expected running it.Quote:
Originally Posted by colorider
I'm a KTM guy, so I cant speak to the TTR specifically but I can give you some thoughts to try. Start by getting that oil circuit working correctly - without a good amount of oil on the top end it will be an expensive repair. As for the bog, it kinda sounds like it is starving for fuel due to the color of the plug. 1 thing to check quick is the float (double check ist not upside down) and the needle level. Another thing you may want to check - maybe even before the float level - is remove the bowl, float and needle valve and with a catch pan under the carb bottom and turn the petcock on and see what kind of flow you have. If its not flowing well, check the petcock/tank screen and also check if your model carb has the small screen where the inlet circuit comes from the hose to the needle valve seat. Some have it, some don't. If its been sitting for a while it may be good to check. One last thing to check is the air/fuel screw on the bottom, if I'm not mistaken, stock setting would have been 1 1/4 turns out from all the way in which should be a good starting point. Just some thoughts - good luck!
I think the air fuel screw on these have to be drilled out and turned 3 turns on this bike or something weird to be adjusted. I haven't done it yet.
A good place to start
http://www.xt225.com/forums/ubbthrea...Board=3&page=1
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Do the '04 still have the brass cover over the screw - I thought the newer models did away with them? #34 is the pilot screw. Stock setting is 1 1/4 out. #31 is the needle valve set - the top half round piece is the screen I was talking about. http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Ya...TOR/parts.html Yes, its a boat site, but has a good diagram of the correct carb.