Master Mechanics step inside-no crank no start 98 Civic (random)

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10-19-2015, 11:02
Graves

Quote:

Originally Posted by muddywings

The problem has been the randomness of the issue. In the past 3-4 months it has only happened a handful of times. Then even without moving the car the problem goes away.
ie: problem in the morning in my garage but gone in the afternoon. or, problem when trying to leave work but after I bump it and get home or to a store/shop the problem doesn't duplicate. That is what my 'honda guy' had a problem with. They can't test or trouble shoot for a problem that isn't currently happening. I might be able to find a connect that has a lot of resistance but I don't have the resources of knowledge to test to that level.
For me, the car is unreliable for anything other than driving to/from work.

The test at O'Reilly was with some pretty big machine (kinda like a super OBDII reader) but it was hooked to the battery. beyond that, I don't know what it was.

Meters are good for spotting "randomness". ;)
Im guessing they only did a starter draw, that won't tell you what kind of resistance...er...random problems you may have between the battery/starter/relay/ignition cylinder.
10-19-2015, 11:03
muddywings

Quote:

Originally Posted by sniper7

Possibly in the ignition coil/distributor where the timing may be off? When I rebuilt my Tahoe engine it would do this because the timing was off. Wouldn't start, then the computer would take over and bypass something and it would start fine on the next try or two. Got it timed right and no problems.

when was the last time it had a tune up with new belts, plugs wires etc? Might be worth it to get it all taken care of at once or do it yourself. You can get kits on eBay very cheap. All the belts, gaskets, water pump, plugs wires, distributor fuel filter air filter etc for I think around $200-250

Previous owner showed me documents of timing belt/mx tuneup at 105K. I'm at 185K now. Was planning on doing it at the end of this year when I get close to 200K. Might bump that up. Thanks. (Still think it's electrical)
10-19-2015, 11:04
muddywings

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wulf202

Neutral switch. Starter solenoid?

Thought about that. Tried turning over the car without the clutch in and the problem is different than what I get without the clutch pushed in. Mainly that humming noise. So I sorta ruled that out.
As for starter solenoid-was thinking of just replacing the starter but worried I'm going to be pumping money into the wrong problems first. Hoping not to do that.
10-19-2015, 11:05
Graves

If you have no issues whatsoever once its been push started, look at the starter circuit. There's no question you have a bad component there.

ETA...is this a manual or auto?
10-19-2015, 11:06
muddywings

Quote:

Originally Posted by Graves

Meters are good for spotting "randomness". ;)
Im guessing they only did a starter draw, that won't tell you what kind of resistance...er...random problems you may have between the battery/starter/relay/ignition cylinder.

Bit over my head. They hooked up their fancy duddad and said it was good. Granted, I know it was O'Reilly people but I'm less knowledgeable than them.
10-19-2015, 11:09
muddywings

Quote:

Originally Posted by Irving

Hondas of that generation were known for random hot start issues like you are describing that are difficult to pin down. Replacing the main relay was always the solution. I think people were able to get the car to start in a pinch by taping on the relay. Next time it happens give that a try and see if it works.

Yup, I already emptied the glove compartment and just left it hanging down so, 1. I can try to pinpoint the noise a bit better and 2. I try taping on it when I get the problem again. That brown spot on the solder makes hope that is what it is. My father-in-law is betting money on the starter switch. He thinks this is funny as hell and can't wait for my next text message of a no start. He likes puzzles too.

Also for the price of a new main relay, I may just replace that too ($30ish) before going to more expensive options like the start switch ($50) or starter ($100).
10-19-2015, 11:10
Graves

Sorry, If we weren't so far away, I'd be able to go take a look. Hopefully somebody a little closer can stop by to lend a hand.
10-19-2015, 11:11
muddywings

Quote:

Originally Posted by Graves

If you have no issues whatsoever once its been push started, look at the starter circuit. There's no question you have a bad component there.

ETA...is this a manual or auto?

Manual-hence the bump/push start.
My father-in-law is putting money on the starter circuit/switch/wiring bundle.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Graves

Sorry, If we weren't so far away, I'd be able to go take a look. Hopefully somebody a little closer can stop by to lend a hand.

Thanks for the offer. I'm less pissy about the issue now that I just park in BFE at work so I can get a rolling start if I need to. I just don't like putting a ton of money in a beater commuter car. I'd rather put it gun stuff!
10-19-2015, 11:14
Graves

Quote:

Originally Posted by muddywings

Manual-hence the bump/push start.
My father-in-law is putting money on the starter circuit/switch/wiring bundle.

Oh. Derp.
Sorry, just waking up.
The question came to mind when I saw woof's question. Haha
10-19-2015, 11:58
Great-Kazoo

Contact Zteknik / Bobby. he's a Ford tech, he might lift his standards to take a guess.

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