Anyone have a band saw to cut a fuel tank?

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Originally Posted by BushMasterBoy

The proper way to do it, is put some nut and bolts in it and shake it about. Air clean the inside of the tank using compressed air. Then put the liquid tank liner in. The problem with welding it back together, is it will probably explode! I did that once on a boat tank in a marine repair facility. The rust absorbs the hydrocarbons, then expels them when they get warm. This was a 20 gallon tank and it blew up in my face. I was not injured. The tank was destroyed. Video below shows the procedure.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sf2veir5VHU

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I've been shaking nuts and bolts around inside with fresh gas. The sludge is so thick that you can't even hear the nuts hitting the metal.
Just tonight I decided to start flushing it with water and that seemed to help as now I can see progress and you can actually hear the nuts hitting the walls.

I think before I cut it, I'll try a pressure sprayer, and maybe something like a snake to get areas the nozzle won't reach.

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Originally Posted by DFBrews

Circular metal cutting saw

bandsaws like you describe except a big vertical don?t like the varied chip load they tend to catch and distort.

Text me I gots one

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I've got one that I need to fix. I was thinking I'd prefer the thinner blade of the band saw, but I could see having issues with the blade deflecting.

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Originally Posted by gnihcraes

Die grinder with cutoff wheel.

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I have this as well, but was thinking I'd really mangle up the cut compared to a band saw.

Masking tape around it for a cut line to follow.

I have a porta band but it wont be large enough to cut more than a 3 inch cutoff wheel would.

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Take it to a radiator repair shop, they will steam it out.

Hmmm, I really don't want to explode myself. I might look into the steaming clean at a radiator shop. That's not a bad idea.

I see guys using acetone to clean metal before welding all the time. Why is that not an issue? Is it because it is open air and not closed up in a drum? Would leaving the cap and petcock off help?

If I can avoid cutting and rewelding I'll do that. Thanks for the input.

Also if you want to make a new one I have some 6” aluminum pipe and weld on bungs

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Originally Posted by DFBrews

Also if you want to make a new one I have some 6” aluminum pipe and weld on bungs

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That definitely piques my interest. I'm really just trying to get this tractor running so I can sell it though. While I look forward to a project that allows me to learn to weld aluminum, I don't want it to be this project.

The tank I was working on was full of water. It still exploded. There is no way I will ever, weld, solder, braze etc. on a used fuel tank. It is akin to stuffing a riding mower with tannerite, you are just asking for it...
I have done a few tanks here at home. One was a 1974 Yamaha and it came out fine. The instructions actually say don't remove all the rust. The reason is that the sealer needs a rough surface to adhere properly. Another tank was a 7 HP Wisconsin motor that runs my compressor. Worked great.

I think the only way to safely weld a tank is if you have a special setup with inert gases in an enclosure for safety and robotics. It would totally suck to loose a hand or an eye.


I used this stuff...

https://www.cyclegear.com/accessorie...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

Thanks, I'll check it out.

If you need to cut it put soem dry ice and water in it first. The co2 will displace all the oxygen and then you can safely cut it.

Personally I keep trying to clean it out.

I had good luck with this for sealing.

https://www.mikesxs.net/media/catalo...r-sealer-1.jpg