3/16" between flats, I think it's too tight for the arisaka tool. I wish all mounts came with a leveling screw.
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3/16" between flats, I think it's too tight for the arisaka tool. I wish all mounts came with a leveling screw.
I can help you with it if you like. I generally level the rifle with a bubble level and then line up the reticle with something I know is plumb. Alternatively, I’ll use a stack of paper shims between the top of the mount and the bottom of the scope if I’m in a hurry.
The former method gets the reticle plumb. The latter gets the erector plumb. Which is more important to you (the reticle is not always perfectly aligned with the erector) depends on weather you will primarily be shooting at longer ranges off the reticle or if you’ll be dialing the scope. Unless you have a level on the rifle, none of it makes a lick of difference since you’ll be canting the rifle no matter what.
PM me if you want some help. I’m in Woodland Park
I use feeler gauges to get the bottom of the erector housing parallel with the mount.
However the reticle might be off a few degrees which could be your problem.
The second I get mine all tru'ed up, I get in a conversation, and spin the wheel out of nervous energy. ;)
Once you get it tru'ed up, lock it down nice and tight.
-John
That's a good point, thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoser
I've gotten alot of good ideas from this thread, y'all are awesome. I'm going to shim with a deck of cards, I got some stiff 30 year old E&E playing cards with edible plants and tiny ass print that I'll never be able to read without a microscope, so glad I hung onto that. I'll do that while I look at the reticle over a plumbline at distance.
There's 2 clamps, should I obsess over the gaps on the sides of the clamps, or is a little incongruence ok?
I like the gaps to be very close to equal. I don’t think it matters in the slightest, but the amount of effort required to equalize the gaps is small compared to the reduction of noise in my brain if they are not.
Wow, I absently mindedly clicked on this and found out something cool here!
Thanks!
A old spark plug gap tool helps with equalizing ring gap.