Use rebar for your grate, easy to cut, bend and weld.
And it is cheap.
Sent from my electronic ball and chain.
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Use rebar for your grate, easy to cut, bend and weld.
And it is cheap.
Sent from my electronic ball and chain.
That's a grate idea. Thanks.
LOL, I see what you did there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Irving
I think my damper is about 3.5' from the box. Still have good air control and it doesn't get hot.
^^^This, especially with barrel stoves. Also won't corrode quite so fast.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ah Pook
Sent from my electronic ball and chain.
The lid on your barrel is removable, so that invites ease of some of the the things you described for upgrading. One thing a guy could do, removable lid or not, would be to fill it halfway up with pea gravel or small rocks, and then take..say.... 6 pieces of 2 x 2 angle iron cut into 33" long pieces and place them onto the gravel/rock bed. That should allow lots of airflow I would think. Wouldn't cost all that much either, I don't think.
Place the angle iron on the bed like this ... ^
Lean to > Swedish layer
[Coffee]
That's basically the same thing as the upside down fire that I used to use in my fireplace. Putting the big stuff on the bottom like that helps you create a fire that burns for a long time and doesn't need nearly as much wood, or attention.Quote:
Originally Posted by KellyTTE
One thing I would like to do is weld in a baffle. Had I planned better, I would have saved the piece of metal I cut out for the door and used that. Any suggestions on what I should use now that would be pretty cheap? Any idea how large the baffle should be? For example, if it stretched 50% of the length of the stove, compared to 75% of the length of the stove; would either of those lengths be ideal over the other? I'll have to consult that stove making book I posted here before and see what it says about baffels.
Thanks for all the tips. Keep them coming.
I am really impressed, and very grateful for the pictures and video that you posted. :) I've often wondered about barrel stoves.
One thing- and it may not even apply: don't burn stuff like poison ivy, poison oak or poison sumac. It's a real pain to keep it separate when clearing the yard and burning all the yard debris, but the oils and particulates in those plants will float up the chimney and get EVERYWHERE, including in the air you breathe. (We had a cast iron wood stove when I was growing up.)
Thanks for the tip. I know I burned sumac but it wasn't poison.
For an outside stove, I wouldn't worry too much about baffles. Adjust the flue and front air vents to adjust the heat.
For an inside heater, I would add a baffle just so the maximum use of the fuel is reached. Maybe weld some angle iron length wise, on both sides, toward the top of the barrel. Slide in a couple of pieces of heavier gauge steel. Use the two pieces to adjust the amount of baffle. Make sure they are removable for easy cleaning of the top inside of the barrel.
Reminds me, I have to buy a chimney brush tomorrow.
I like the idea of welding in the angle iron bracket, and having a slide in baffle. If using a baffle will give me a more efficient, cleaner burn, and allow my wood to last longer; then I want one.
I need to put baffles in my current wood stove. It has tubes running through it for a blower. A few pieces of 1/8" strapping, across the tubes, would move the heat to the front of the stove. Not sure how much more efficient it would be. The cast iron stove gets pretty hot with very little wood as it is.
Is there any reason I couldn't use a piece of floor tile for a baffle? Not exactly what they were designed for, but cheap enough to put in until I find something else. I think I'll try that just see how well it works.
ETA: A bit of an update. The paint is all dry, but the cheap Rust-oleum High Heat paint scratches easy. I can scratch it with just my thumb nail, not very hard at all. Also, I have our old oven/range sitting in my garage with 3 different oven racks in it. One of the racks from the big bottom oven fits right inside the barrel at pretty much the perfect height. Not as tough or heavy as rebar, but about 40x as cheap.
I like that you're still working with this, Irving.
The oven rack idea sounds really good. I look forward to seeing your improvements and ideas implemented......pics.
Everything has gone great so far, except for one thing.
I was able to obtain 10 sheets of 12' metal roofing, for FREE. I think I'll probably be able to pull of cinder blocks for a decent deal as well, just need to keep my eyes open. I ordered 20' of 6" stove pipe from Amazon for $19, but then shipping was $31. Still cheaper than the store I think. The stove pipe should be here this week. The glass oven door seal tape should be shipped soon as well, and I've got a sealer from Home Depot waiting for when that arrives.
The one thing I really screwed up on was leveling the flue. I sat on the stove and took my time making sure the flue was level. I drilled all the holes, got it installed, checked again and the dang thing isn't level! The legs weren't the most easy to line up and drill correctly either due to the structure of the leg and the placement of the holes. So there is a slight rock to the stove, but something a sugar packet ought to take care of ;). Anyway, I think I will be doomed to having a crooked stove pipe and looking like a dummy, unless I can just wedge it in there at an angle to compensate.
I took some pictures of the progress on the patio (roof), but I'll get more pictures of the stove up as they come available. It's just been sitting in the garage waiting for me to put it back together.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-A...004_214028.jpg
Cool, Man.
First time projects always will have some revamps and "oh I shoulda's"..
Thanks for the idea, Irving & thanks for the barrel, Otter! :)
Obviously, I still need to figure out its placement, burn off the paint, re-paint, etc...
http://i.imgur.com/3SOcedo.jpg
Alright! If I could redo mine, I'd have placed the door like you did. Did it heat up as much as you expected?
Oh to have my own back yard to enjoy one of these, someday!
I've only run paper & some sticks through it thus far, but it does get warm quick!Quote:
Originally Posted by Irving
Nice job, Argon.
Looks great.
I was so excited for my 5 sections of 6"x48" stove pipe to show up in the mail today. When I got home, the chumps only sent me a single section!
So I emailed the chumps. They apologized profusely for their great mistake and gave me a full refund. They didn't offer to send me the rest of the product. They acted as if they made an error with the ad, which very clearly states that it is a pack of 5. So now I have one free section that is not enough. This is the stuff you have to hook together. It came out of round and bent up. From what I can tell, it will take approximately 5 people at once to get this section together properly.
Time to browse Craigs List for used chimney pipe I guess.
Engine enamel! I painted a turbo down tube (excess of 1100 degree) and the color stays.Quote:
Originally Posted by Irving
Whoops.. Vht engine enamel
I came across this video about how to make a forge out of a soup can (worth a watch).
Guy uses a 50/50 mix of Plaster of Paris and sand to make a fire proof lining for the forge. Looks like you can get a 25lb bag on Amazon for only $12. Same bag is $15 at Home Depot.
I was wondering about if this 50/50 mix could be applied to the barrel stove for any application. You wouldn't coat the whole barrel, as it would defeat the purpose, but I wonder about doing a lay on the bottom, instead of just sand or a fire grate. Honestly though, it seems like overkill. If anything, at least check out the cool video. That'd be my next project, but I have zero uses for a forge at this time.
cool stove stu ! [Awesom]
Thanks Alex.
Anyone have any ideas about sealing up the chimney pipe when I run it through a corrugated roof? I'd just cut close and silicone it up, but the roof has so little pitch that I'm afraid any obstruction will just cause a puddle. Actually, I'm going to do exactly that. I've been putting this job off for too long. One channel of occasional puddled water won't be a big deal. I've been thinking about making some elaborate corrugated cricket for a week now.
Anyone have any tips on assembling the black stove pipe I have? I have a 4' black pipe (single wall) and a 6' galvanized pipe (single wall). The galvanized is flimsy and pushed right together. The black pipe is just stiff enough that I feel like I'm trying to press two nails together. I feel like a giant ape when I fumble around with it. Do I just throw my gloves on and be a man about it, or is there a secret? It doesn't help that the pipe they sent me is all bent out of shape either.
Drill little holes and use sheet metal screws after you get the sections together?
Might need to use some sheet metal crimpers so the pipe will slide together.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0061BR9V0/...SIN=B0061BR9V0Quote:
Originally Posted by Irving
High temp silicone.
Thanks Jim. I bought a tube locally. I ordered some fire rope gasket from Amazon, but it is way too thick. It fits perfectly in the lid, but fills it up completely and can't get it to clamp onto the barrel. I'll have to go find a much thinner kind.
Hghclsswhitetrash: I'll probably do that around the pipe through the roof. I guess I'll try to have it done by this weekend, minus the cinder block wall.
I have found fire rope at Ace Hardware in varying sizes for my ammo can stove.
I got the barrel stove all together tonight.
enthusiast: Thanks for the tip. I just decided to put the lid on with the clamp and no gasket. I'm sure it will be fine. If it isn't, I can go back and do it again later.
I got that pipe fitted together finally. I stood in my garage and thought of all the role model men on this site that I am surrounded by, HBARleatherneck, who only stops making kids long enough to dig his own septic tank by hand, build a pole barn, and lay 200 yards of concrete sidewalk. Jim, who after having me turn down an offer to buy his bench top vice for $50 because I couldn't afford it, immediately tried to get me to buy his house for $225,000. MickBoy, who kicks in 7 doors each morning before breakfast, on a Saturday. BaileyGuns, who delivers the same political argument 50 times in a row each month, but doesn't get angry until the 49th time. And finally Ronin, who said such mean things behind his secretary's back, that she would probably cry if he ever said them to her face.
I thought of all those influential men, put on my gloves, and wrestled that sum'bitch till I got it together!
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-C...028_225827.jpg
I also drilled a hole and relocated the damper to about 6" below the top of the pipe, so it will be about 3.5' above the stove:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-6...028_225856.jpg
The pipe is all bent up from trying to jam it into the cast iron flue. I can fit the wide side of the galvanized in, but not the black pipe. I plugged up the holes where the damper used to be with that high temp gasket cement that Jim posted earlier.
I have LOTS of scap wood, if you come get it.
Irving..........you're alright.
Is your cell number still the same from a few years ago?Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlin
Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by Otterbatcat
enthusiast; just realized you said you have an ammo can stove. Any chance you have pictures you could put on here? I was thinking of trying to build one of those next. I want something to heat up a hunting blind for coyotes.
I just found the other thread I posted it in. I am going to make a 40mm version also.