Simple check. If the cruise control works it's your blend door. If the cruise doesn't work it's a vacuum leak
Printable View
Simple check. If the cruise control works it's your blend door. If the cruise doesn't work it's a vacuum leak
I will test the cruise control tomorrow. I suspect it's a vac issue but it'd be nice to rule something out if possible. Thanks!
Can't remember using cruise control in the last five years. Nope, doesn't work. Idiot light in the console does however. Heh, forgot what a lovely shade of green it is.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wulf202
Thank you very much. That was a nifty trick.
Hope you don't mind me asking but you seem to know much more than I about this... any recommendations as to where I should start looking now as I don't see anything terribly obvious?
The cruise control module is under the battery. Lines go up to the dash to an F type fitting above the steering box then over to the passenger side of the firewall to the heater core. The other end will go to vacuum but mine is a diesel so it goes to the vacuum pump. Yours will connect to the intake manifold somewhere.
The factory lines are both hard plastic and soft rubber. Best to gut the whole thing since it's only a few feet of tube and one fitting pack from the auto store
Yup, that hard plastic line is very, very brittle, this I know.
So if I backtrack from the known port in the firewall (along with your description) I should be able to trace it & replace all the segments & not miss anything. I believe I know where it is bundled near the battery with my wiring harness for my plow (not my install) & another place it might cross by the steering column. I'll look in my repair manual & see if I can find a diagram of where it was originally installed too because...
My truck had quite a few people in there mucking about before I bought it. An example being the electrical was apparently reworked (by someone akin to field mice, crows or squirrels) for a camper & trailer & it took me a couple days to troubleshoot & correct everything wrong. It was such a hack job that I started over from scratch & rewired everything they did the second day.
Im excited I might be able to solve for this perhaps without pulling the dash. Thank you again!
Mine was a farm truck. Had to unfuck the wiring too.
There's also a check valve on there between the engine and the t or f fitting. They're usually pretty tough but you can check them yourself or just trash it.
Now its the idiot light for the airbag, intermittent of course.
No codes. Appreciate suggestions please, if any. Thank you.
In the steering wheel?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Idk which it is referring
Zero idea what type of vehicle but some manufacturers put the control module for the airbags under the seats. Enough snowy, wet feet or damp carpet and the moisture can cause corrosion in the connectors.
Also, since they are in the elements and typically mounted low on the vehicle it could be a crash sensor issue.
I?ve seen seatbelt tensioner failures as well.
I?d say have someone pull the code and see what it says isn?t working right.
There is an option to turn the passenger side off with the key. Ive tried with it both engaged & off. Same result
Sorry. Didn?t see the part about you already checked the codes.
Same 99 dodge 1500 5.9l Laramie reg cab its always been.Quote:
Originally Posted by ray1970
Also said no codes.
Think Im going to put a dnr on this thing. Over it.
Going off memory from way back in the day but if whoever pulled the codes used one of those generic OBD type scanners you may not find the code.
While parameters that affect emissions are standardized I don?t think things like airbags or ABS fall under the OBD standards and may have their own proprietary structure for retrieving faults.
Meh. You could just drive it with airbags that don?t work. You know, kind of just pretend it?s a vehicle that doesn?t have airbags.Quote:
Originally Posted by ChickNorris
Pretty sure my first seven or eight vehicles didn?t have airbags and I?m alive to tell you about it.
Its the entire truck. Garbage
Ok. ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by ray1970
Now I know you?re jerking my chain.Quote:
Originally Posted by ChickNorris
Dodges are awesome vehicles and will last pretty much forever without and issues.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ray1970
Still open to suggestions to remedy however. Please.
I was thinking if it?s in the steering wheel it could be the clock spring.
But good point that it could be the crash sensor. On the 05 burb the crash sensor design rusted out the sensor. I had a member here check it with a pro type scanner and it came back as the left crash sensor.
Not sure where on your truck the sensors are but should be able to find on the webs. It might be good to see if one is corroded. On mine it was not obvious until the screw was removed. If you decide to pull them disconnect battery and wait 1/2 hour for everything to discharge.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I almost forgot about the clock spring. Other than owning one, I?m not really a Dodge guy so I don?t know if they use a clock spring.
Also, typically a clock spring is either good or bad so the fact that she says the light is on intermittently kind of steers me away from that being the cause.
Obviously, I could be wrong.
They do use a clockwork spring. Its $75 and a pain. I need to do mine this winter. Crank the wheel and feel for a slight tick in the column.
Also it runs the cruise control so....
Is that so...
Ive already had to replace the signal switch & another ancillary part. Recall I had to do the key cylinder once too - when that was under warranty.
If you ignore it for 6 months or so the tick in the column will get pronounced enough if feels like the turn signal cancellation
So in this case doing nothing is diagnostics
Coincidentally, my truck had a piece of loose plastic shroud banging around on the front bumper when driving @ 80mph, on washboard roads, etc., so I used a zip tie to secure it.
Oddly, the airbag idiot light hasn't lit up since. Funny.
Black electrical tape over the offending indicator on the dash, problem solved.
THAT was exactly what I did but noticed it wasn't glowing red around the edges after the zip tie was used.Quote:
Originally Posted by SideShow Bob
Darn thing is like 600 lumins.
Damn zip ties are trying to make baling wire obsolete.
Mine was check engine light caused by cracked and loose air damn that would collapse over 70mph restricting air intake.
On an old Toyota 4Runner. Zip tied it back together and never had check engine light again.
Duct tape and WD40 can fix anything.
If it shouldn?t be moving but it is, use the duct tape.
If it isn?t moving but it should be, use the WD40.
Zip ties and bailing wire have similar applications as the duct tape.
Gotta' have some chewing gum in the arsenal.Quote:
Originally Posted by ray1970
Or did it just finally burn out from being on all the time, it is over 20 years old after all......... And you know how it is when things get old....... [Tooth]Quote:
Originally Posted by ChickNorris
Loose trim could be sending pulses to the sensor. The sensor sends the info to the cpu and cpu sees a signal and figures something is wrong with sensor. See if it comes back
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Fwiw, I don't usually half-ass anything on my vehicles or anything else typically ... just don't gaf about this truck anylonger.
Thanks for the suggestions & appreciate you all taking the time.
Anyone have a minute to peek @ the driver front side of my truck this morning? Just a visual inspection with some contextual understanding because im hoping for an 'a-ha' moment. My truck sounds angrier than usual when I turn but only in 4 wheel drive, apparently. Least that's when its noticeable.
Kind of a loud creak & wobble, maybe. Almost like its not engaged or ?
(Ray1970: same 99 Ram 5.9 reg cab Laramie slt its always been - lol)
My option for the repair is limited to firestone but historically they've lied & I'm not thrilled about going there so I was hoping someone could give me an idea of what to expect beforehand. Need to sort this quickly for the weekend.
Please & thank you - Xa
Without seeing it I would guess front diff or a drive shaft/axle.Quote:
Originally Posted by ChickNorris
Make model and year?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I would guess, judging by her post, that it is a 1999 Ram with the 5.9l engine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Erni