Of course, always something comes up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Irving
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Of course, always something comes up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Irving
Not really a sighting issue. More that I have so little time behind a rifle, that I can't tell the difference between needing an adjustment on my scope, or if I'm shooting poorly.Quote:
Originally Posted by buffalobo
Today I was on paper, centered, at 50 yards, but 6" high. I didn't touch the scope, took a shot at 200 yards, and got nothing on paper. I moved back to 100 yards and was on paper, but the impacts were way left. Now, I can throw a shot, but the strong, steady wind, was also coming from the left, so if anything the shots should have been to the right. I move the windage turret 10 clicks to the right, took another shot that was way right, and that's when the case got stuck. So I went home. I had other stuff to do, so today was hastily planned and I felt ill prepared. I'm sure everything will be fine, I just wish I had more time. I'd like to zero at 200 and know where things are hitting from 50-400 yards.
I'm sure it's all very basic stuff, it's just stuff I've never taken the time to learn, and have very little time to accomplish before I need it (this weekend).
If you know the ballistics, you can zero at 200 and be damn close to the supplied result at any other range assuming you're not reaching past a humane kill distance.Quote:
Originally Posted by Irving
Hell, Strelok Pro will show your reticle and the hold for any distance on your phone for different animals. Or perhaps you have a range finder that can show some ballistic data? My trusty Leupold is about dead on for .308 and mil hold.
The wind hold is where the real work comes in, but a ballistics app can help there too.
I decided to quit being a moron and actually input useful info into an online calculator to give me a decent baseline.
I think I'll go to a 100 yard zero because I can see the hits at that distance and looking at the wizbang ballistics chart, even shooting out to 550 is only 3.52 mils hold over, which is no big deal with this scope. Everything will be fine, I just need to stop being a lazy POS and whining.
Ammo:
You said 6.5 Creedmor?
Cabela's shows stock for Hornady Precision hunter 143gr ELDX. Get some.
Zero it at 200 and here's your ballistics (close enough without a chrono).
https://i.imgur.com/FOtS0Ro.png
If we need more detail, subtract 40-50fps per inch of barrel under 24" (unless you run suppressed) and we can swizzle it through Strelok or any other ballistics app to get you some good numbers.
Well there you go.
In the time it took me to assemble my last post, you found some useful stuff.
Getting things right in your mind and not stressing about your readiness helps.
Of course, a busted gun doesn't help alleviate any stress.
The long term plan is to sell the .308 with a bunch of extras to get into a 6.5 Creedmor with very little extra cash on my end, but that is a next year thing. TL;DR the Axis has too thin of a barrel to thread, so I might as well get an already threaded barrel rifle in a caliber that I'm interested in. For now, .308.
I went out Sunday and even in the wind was pretty happy with my initial groups.
Then something went horribly wrong. POI was 6" off vertically previous groups at 100 yds (200 yd zero). WTF?
Ended up being the damn AAC can had loosened and backed off one tooth. Hard to believe it affected the POI that friggin much but tightening it put it back on track. Frustrating to say the least.
Wind was mostly at my back at about 170* I'd estimate but got continually stronger and quartering as time rolled on. I made a one click windage adjustment from last year and called it good.
Ah, now I remembers.Quote:
Originally Posted by Irving
Strelok:Quote:
Originally Posted by Irving
Your reticle, Hornady 178gr ELDX box stock fps.
Target type Pronghorn.
https://i.imgur.com/Wi7txtx.png
https://i.imgur.com/8yZQ84e.png
That's a pretty cool program.
Can't recommend the Ruger American Predator in 6.5CM enough. Combined with Armscor 123gr for practice, and the Leupold 3-9. Add Strelock to that and it's poa = poi.
Stu let me know if you want to try that out after hunting season.
After get the case unstuck check install of scope carefully. Make sure everything aligned properly and tight/torqued.Quote:
Originally Posted by Irving
Don't skip around distances, be methodical and confirm everything before move to next step. Got access to lead sled? Maybe Brandon has one?
I love my FJ Cruiser, but after the past year, I’m thinking I need to get a Jeep XJ to beat the shit out of and never repair.
Well, earlier I complained about a pain in my lower back and hip/leg. Pain was becoming unbearable so I went to urgent care to at least get a little relief from the pain and they obliged after taking some x-rays. The x-rays showed up some wear and tear at both femur to hip sockets, they recommended that I contact a orthopedic doctor for further advice and treatment options.
I called the office that they recommended and they are not taking new medicaid patients until December? I am going to a general practitioner tomorrow for an exam and hopefully some help with the pain.
Can any of you recommend a NOCO orthopedic doctor? I would like to explore my treatment options. At 64 I am too young to stop living.
I think I'm set on a Savage 10/110 tactical with the ACIS mags. We'll see what I end up with though. How much does that ammo run? How much does that app cost?Quote:
Originally Posted by Erni
This ^^^Quote:
Originally Posted by buffalobo
The 110 looks like pretty good value.Quote:
Originally Posted by Irving
I used to have a 110 in 30-06 in a Boyds laminated stock. Was very accurate even with cheap glass.
Still waffling on 6.5CM. I like the cartridge but budget may interfere. Would have to exit 308 completely and replace with 6.5. Not sure I want to do that for mid range rifle. May just stick to 308 for hunting and midrange distance.
Next planned acquisition was going to be long range rifle next year in 338 or 50 cal.
I have a .308 bolt gun for compatibility with NATO 7.62x51. It's an unimpressive Howa Lightning that I bought used, but it's accurate and shoots well. I'm not much into hunting.
I'm hoping to be able to get into long-range shooting at some point and 338 Lapua is in the lead.
Lots of options in 338.
Strelok has a free version, it's what I use.
Armscor is $19 a box at Murdochs.
Strelok Pro (not +) lets you save unlimited rifles and has more reticles, etc.
I can't see how much as I already own it, but it was maybe $7.99 at the time?
ETA: Looks like it's $12 now?
Pro has WAY more stuff in it, reticles, bullets, cartridges, ballistics options and the dev really keeps it updated with new reticles and factory loads.
Announcement:
If you or anyone you know around Longmont had a get home bag stollen PM me.
Found a prefab get home backpack on the corner of my lot It was tossed for content between 7.20 and 7.50 AM today, or last night and I missed it this AM. Contents were mostly there, bag was tossed and left. I would guess a druggie looking for weapons.
PSA: cover your get home bags people.
If you want to shoot more, may want to look at something other than a 338. Even reloading the ammo is more expensive than a 260/6.5.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gman
I doubt it would be high volume for me and my BiL shoots and reloads 338.Quote:
Originally Posted by whitewalrus
Starting to weld up my shooting tree tonight but I ran into a little snag.
I keep forgetting that just because I've had one or two decent welds, that I really have no idea what I'm doing, so when I run into a problem, I'm really not educated enough to know what the problem is!
What snag? Pic?
In this case, wire feeding, everything glowing, but no "sizzle" at all. No pictures, I already grinded that weld down. I was mostly messing around fixing other stuff, then when I went to do a real weld on a butt joint, I wasn't happy with it. It quickly became clear that I need to take my time and just impromptu welding is not a stage I'm at yet.
ETA: The pieces were prepped, but I just decided to weld them together in that moment. Was welding two 90's edge to edge, and they didn't weld straight. Fortunately this is not something that matters much, but I'd really prefer to do things correct, and well, whenever possible.
On that note, I do think we should start a DIY welding thread for people (me) to post up welds and have everyone else critique them. Probably challenging with photos though since I assume that multiple issues can cause similar looking welds.
Irving, why dont you just get a 6.5cm barrel for your axis?
You can always mock up with scrap or run practice bead first.
Are you tacking the pieces first?
You can tack pieces to table to hold as well. Just grind tack and dress as needed when done.
No sizzle sounds like gas issue.
Savage won't sell barrels separately. Rob at Bowers tells me that there are plenty of aftermarket barrels available. Do you have to get a new bolt for 6.5 when moving from .308? I hear the mags are the same.
I could, but I figure I can sell everything I have that goes with my Axis, and roll into that tactical for not much more. I like the 10/110 tactical since it has the Accu-trigger, ACIS mags, and factory threaded barrel. I fantasize about trying some long range match in the future and might as well upgrade everything all at once since it won't cost much more. If I wait long enough to change that I'm working again I might just keep the Axis, except for I don't have room for it.
I've already started some bad habits of not tacking stuff, or just one track and then start welding. I've gotten away with it before, but after welding this piece that moved on me, I've learned a lesson to keep that in check in the future. Also reinforced that I need a table so I'm not holding stuff together with my hands on my driveway.Quote:
Originally Posted by buffalobo
What's wrong with saw horses and plywood for temp bench? Block project up with tube or 2x4's and weld between them if needed. Little scorched plywood, meh.
I weld on a laminate bench most of the time for small repairs. For small fab projects I have several cast iron table saw table extensions that I throw on lam bench so I can tack parts/jigs for fitting/welding.
I've done the saw horses with plywood and some 1/8" steel plate over the wood. That's probably the way I'll go when I want to serious weld on a project. I thought I'd hurry and throw together the duelling tree tonight but quickly realized that to do it right would have taken more time than I had, and that I had more important things to finish. I did put together what was a neat way to hang my plate, but found out the difference between the idea in my head and the physical application. Still works though. I'll try to remember to get pics tomorrow.
One thing I'd like to figure out is how to weld round stock to flat stock without completely burning up (melting) the round stock. By round stock I mean something like 1/4" metal dowell. When I was tacking up the yard art project for my wife I did okay turning the settings down to the next thinner setting, but that was for tacking two rounds together.
Has it been two days since we've heard from OBC?
I might sell my 88 xj, with 143K on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by MrAK
As to tacking, it is integral part of the craft of fab and welding. Take time fitting and tacking. The better the rough in the better the finish.