while it may be clean enough. One should not weld galvanized metals w/out very good ventilation and even better breather system. Not so much the zinc oxide, but lead oxide fumes.Quote:
Originally Posted by ChickNorris
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while it may be clean enough. One should not weld galvanized metals w/out very good ventilation and even better breather system. Not so much the zinc oxide, but lead oxide fumes.Quote:
Originally Posted by ChickNorris
Galvanized fumes are fine. I mean when was the last time you saw an old welder that was kind of goofy or had some sort of twitch?
I believe she is saying the vinegar bath removes the galvanized coating.
I like it. Knew what was coming from the snap shot.
If you're on Instagram, you'd love the RobinBlackMartialArts channel. He does one-minute break downs of knockouts. Bink.
Also, natureismetal. Those two channels saved me from quitting Instagram.
Doesn’t matter how over-developed one’s biceps (or triceps) are. Sudden rotational forces on the brain are what turn out the lights.
But bi’s and tri’s (and lats) are sometimes still fun.
:)
still, fairly tough to Get the Led OutQuote:
Originally Posted by Irving
I'm under the impression that galvanized steel is a sacrificial zinc coating. I've not heard that lead is part of the deal.
How you doin'?
Well, I'm two months into a six month hiatus of not working. It sucks not having any income at all, but the stuff I'm getting done will most likely never have to be done again in my lifetime at least. It's never fun to put your 40 in every week and still have some major project unfinished that drags out for months it seems. Two more bedrooms and lots of little stuff are done now....I've got a pantry, walk in closet, and two bathrooms to do yet. Then the inside is finished other than maybe a good wood burning stove in the living/dining area.
I'll likely start seeking employment in May unless something pretty good comes up before then.
Depending how the material was galvanized.Quote:
Originally Posted by Irving
Read up on the material you're working with, before doing so.
Galvanized steel can be welded, depending how you prep the material. If i must weld some of it, i'll grind then finish with a flapper disc to get down to bare metal.
I also have both fan behind me and an exhaust by welding area. Scenarios of welding can be slight headaches to something serious, depending how much exposure you have. 1 or 2 welds, not an issue.
I mentioned this since you're probably in the garage dong this. You don't want those fumes moving around the dwelling and or wife, daughter in area. The effects vary depending on ones sensitivity .
"Fumes from welding galvanized steel can contain zinc, iron and lead. Fume composition typically depends on the composition of materials used, as well as the heat applied by the particular welding
process."
Another factor that will help to make quality welds is the type of galvanizing process that was used to coat the steel. Different types of galvanizing methods will leave different thicknesses of zinc on the steel surface. Hot dipped galvanized steel and zinc thermal sprayed steel will typically have a thicker coating than zinc electroplated steel. Selecting a zinc electroplated steel can result in a better weld than thicker-coated hot dipped or zinc thermal sprayed steel. Zinc electroplated steel will also have a far more uniform coating which is important when welding automation is being considered.
I was up until 1:30am welding last night. I kept having to open the garage to air out it, but was keeping it closed so I could use the grinder without disturbing the neighbors. I'm going for the record to see how many times I can forget to move my ground clamp between pieces. So far my record is every fucking time.
For as many resources as I've read watched about welding, I have a hard time coming across something that explains how you're supposed to adjust what you're doing depending on the angle. In this case I'm trying to weld hinges on to the ramps and trailer. I can manipulate the ramps to weld on a comfortable position, but have to lay on the ground and weld upside to get the bottom side of the trailer hinges. They look like dog shit and I don't know what to create better over head welds. At least I burned the shit out of myself all night.
Best bet is to set up circumstance to avoid welding upside down. Plan it in to your project.
Cleat or ledge mounted before hinge to weld hinge to, maybe different shaped hinge plate/base.
If I weren't rushing to do it before bed, I would have just flipped the trailer over.
Pull it outside, flip over and grind those welds off.Quote:
Originally Posted by Irving
Other issue is that I was welding a round hinge on the corner, so it's very deep.
Hey Irving,
Want a ventilator fan for your garage ? You just need a window or hole in the wall for it.
Yeah, I think so. What's the size?
I tapped a new skill that I didn't know I had. I can make any fresh barn wood cut look exactly like the super old shit on it's exterior surfaces. The end result is pretty impressive.
Like a regular fukin picasso . Gonna sign you up for the artist tour this summer.Quote:
Originally Posted by OtterbatHellcat
Hey, wait til ya see it.
It's effin cool lookin'. No shit.
If it looks 1/2 as nice as the flooring you did, i'm sure it does.Quote:
Originally Posted by OtterbatHellcat
Say what now? leaving @ 11 instead of 9
I did get a hold of the dude that supplied the barn wood for the living room. He'll have some 2x12 stuff in stock after a few weeks. I want a beefy shelf above the back door, already have the cast iron brackets for it.
I still want that saloon door for the master bedroom too. The outfit that built the bedroom set said they could make it match if I just give them the dimensions.
Nope, I'll be pert as a ruttin' buck in no time.Quote:
Originally Posted by Great-Kazoo
I know a few excellent wood working guys. But they're sloooowww .Quote:
Originally Posted by OtterbatHellcat
T & S ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Great-Kazoo
I just need the piece cut at 86", ripped at 11"...and I'll hump that cat the rest of the way from there. :)
They're dropping off a vertical band saw this morning. Gotta get out there to move a few cabinets to the reloading room.Quote:
Originally Posted by OtterbatHellcat
My XLR parts shipped & actually left the building.
Like Elvis only different?
Yay
Woohoo!
We assume you'll put up pictures when you're ready.
How long till the parts show up?Quote:
Originally Posted by ChickNorris
Thursday.
Approximately 22?X22?, frame this with some 1?X6? ?s, cover the side that is on the inside with 1/2? square wire to keep little fingers out, and you have a good CFM vent fan.Quote:
Originally Posted by Irving
Attachment 79876
I'll pass for now as I'm trying to reduce things at my house currently. Plus I do the same thing with a box fan. Thank you for the offer.
In other news. A situation has developed that I do not personally consider to be favorable.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/OH...=w1112-h625-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3I...=w1112-h625-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lY...=w1112-h625-no
Without context, looks like sheared bolts and a bent axle? Where's the bum that you plowed over? E.g. back story needed :p
Non-relevant "no duh" PSA: Don't use paint cans for jack stands for your trailer btw. My sister almost lost a finger doing that.... fine for a long time, then all spontaneously collapsed. I know, random, just seeing your "jacked up" trailer reminded me of it.
The axle isn't bent, the front most support that holds the back of the tongue is sagged in the middle. I do wonder about the bolts now tough. I scrolled back through pictures and it looks like it was bent like that yesterday before I towed a riding mower for over 100 miles, but not after towing the same mower + both dirt bikes over a different 100 miles a few months ago.
Ah yeah hard to tell without context. I see the rear bolt in place now. Initially looked like it was gone and held off angle only by the bolt near the tongue. Bolts should be fine if they are grade...sheer strength of say, 1/2" bolts is incredibly, incredibly high, in the order of a couple tons per bolt or more. Granted, I have no clue what size those are, but unless you hit something, I don't see that happening. Now, their tear out strength is much ,much less - like say, 200-300lbs to pull it out of the hole (just for reference) - note that I haven't refreshed my memory so both #'s are going to be up to 50% off.
Vibration loss on most bolts is the real concern.
Quick ETA: point being whatever the bolt is in usually fails first if you're at risk of sheer - e.g. wood splits or sheet metal opens up.
2nd ETA: And that's a large part in engineering with larger bolts - it's so their is substantially more surface area where they are attached to distribute the load - e.g. if you are sistering boards, the risk usually isn't the bolts sheering under any load; they start to fail when the wood compresses around them due to the load - bigger = substantially more strength in the socket.