I don't know, Is have to ask my friends that did all research.
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I don't know, Is have to ask my friends that did all research.
After having been burned by using a cheap set of cab LED lights that took a shit in less than a year, I'm hesitant to buy one of the cheaper LED light bars for a mid-bumper application but would be interested in details about this. I'd probably wire mine into the factory fog lights I installed, but also switchable when not needed.
I was actually considering this one: https://www.amazon.com/Rough-Country...y&sr=8-13&th=1
Yup.
Even Walmart and auto shops sells suitable led now.
I was up in Denver earlier today
https://images1.laweekly.com/imager/...california.png
kidding ... sheesh
Rebuilding my NAS...
More than a slight upgrade...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...de54d986_c.jpgGA-7PESH2 by ARNEWB, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...6eb0fc22_c.jpgE5-2630LV2 by ARNEWB, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...b9105b3efd.jpg128gb ECC by ARNEWB, on Flickr
I bought the light bar on my RZR from Oz-Usa. Cheaper, but not the SUPER cheap stuff. Actually has the pressure breathers and such. If I was going to put it in a bumper, I would have the lens covered in headlight film for the sake of avoiding rock chips.
I checked with my friends and they were dabbling in the light bar market like ten years ago when everything was much more expensive.
Basically Hanma was the Chinese company that at the time was blowing the pants off of other generically priced eBay stuff. He said most of the technology was in the reflector design. Back then he made a bulk purchase ($5,000) of lights which brought the cost of a single 22" bar down to $60 and a 42" bar down to $100. He kept what he wanted and resold everything else. Sounds like this was back when it was several hundred dollars to get anything decent. So I guess there are no secret good deals any more.
My Lacie NAS just died too so I decided to upgrade a little bit myself (not as powerful as yours, but its just a simple media server). I got tired of risking losing data so I'm going RAID this time (thankfully my NAS died slowly so I was able to get one good backup in hours before it gave up the ghost).
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....L._SL1500_.jpg
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3TB doesn't sound like a lot but its more than I need right now and by the time I need to grow into more I can just swap out the drives with bigger ones.
Yeah, but its more photogenic.
Picked up these mostly free Coleman Xtreme cooler off of Craigslist today. Cat for scale. Also got a Save Phace welding helmet for $10.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Vj...w=w352-h626-no
My RTIC cooler isn't as great as I thought, so I'm interested to see how these Colemans perform as I've heard great things about them. I actually picked these up from someone else, so I'll have to experience them second hand.
My current build is 18tb raw, with 11tb usable, and as I rebuilt, I'm targeting going to 64tb raw, but changing to Raidz3, so roughly 36.5tb usable.
This is my home NAS for personal docs, media, etc, but I have recently become the offsite backup for our company email, cloud, and everything else.
It's getting built into a 3U rack chassis, and then stashed in my rack.
Yeah, that'll fill up faster than you think. For me its just local docs and media (mostly movies, TV and music for my Plex server) so I'm not too worried about it getting full. I'm only using about 1.4TB of space now and I could probably stand to delete some stuff I'm never going to re-watch.
From this photo I'm guessing you have a reflector housing given the cut-off line or lack thereof. I would HIGHLY suggest removing those as you'll be blinding oncoming drivers. Dropping LED replacement bulbs into a reflector housing is dangerous as these LEDs don't have a pattern like the Halogen bulb does which the reflector needs to have a proper cut-off. You can get away with it in a projector housing if you aim properly after installation.
That being said, your performance will be worse. There was a guy who was some sort of industry expert who did a big write-up on these LED drop-ins and the summary is they're trash for many, many reasons. They don't throw light as far which is the important part of a headlight and not how well it lights up your garage door from 2' away. They also have dead spots and hot spots and aren't uniform at all. Lastly is the life span: not good. Generally LEDs have a longer service life compared to halogens but these cheap Chinese (and even the more expensive ones) bulb replacement units do not have that same attribute. While it's true that the business end doesn't make much heat (LEDs by nature have less heat byproduct than halogen) the driver side makes an obscene amount of heat which is what causes them to fail in many instances more frequently than halogen bulbs.
So in the end you pay more money, get shittier light output and shorter lifespan plus you blind oncoming drivers if you put them in a halogen headlight housing.
That's a score. Most tests put those at about 95% the performance of the high end YETI, RTIC, etc. coolers at a fraction of the price. I've been thinking of getting on but haven't yet. Not sure how you got three of them for nearly free but if you end up needing only two, let me know!
A halogen bulb is just a bulb that sends light in all directions, except straight forward, and depends on the reflectors in the headlight housing to direct the light, right?
I'm sensitive to being that guy that just sticks a high output HID bulb in without a projector to focus, which is why I haven't gone that route. Since the LED is putting out light in a similar pattern as the halogen, I'm less worried about blinding others.
Full disclosure, I got one cooler for free, and the other two for $3 each.
Yes and no. It really depends on what bulb type/size it is. Many have the beam pattern built into the bulb itself so then the reflector just redirects that. They have light in certain areas and no light in others specifically for the housing that they go into. LEDs tend to just scatter light wherever and pay no attention to the proper light pattern that halogens emit. The end result of a halogen in the housing is a proper beam with a cut-off across the top to avoid blinding oncoming drivers. LED replacement bulbs in the same housing result in light everywhere which can "look" brighter against a wall but in the real world it's often times less light output with poorer uniformity and it's dangerous because it blinds oncoming drivers.
That's why I was saying that in the photo the LED looks more washed out in the picture then in person. You can see a clear demarcation of where the light cuts off and it is very similar in size to the halogen. When I took it out at night and parked at the end of my driveway, the beams were still focused; whereas when I turned on the cheapy light bar, that filled in all the gaps with the flood.
Coolers aren't mine too distribute, I just picked them up for a buddy.
In the photo you can see where the right one is clearly higher where the concentration of light is. All it would take is a little more than an inch higher at that distance before you're blinding oncoming drivers. It's not much. You can try to aim it lower to compensate but then your beam will be so low on the sides that they'd be useless.
What vehicle is this in? Like I said earlier, that makes a big difference but in almost every case you're better off staying halogen or doing a full-blown HID retrofit.
It's in an Isuzu Amigo, so parts are pretty much non-existent, which is why I chose not to do the full HID set-up.
9004
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Also got some manual hubs.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Dg...=w1112-h625-no
Yeah, those throw a specific light pattern that the reflector housing then bounces back in just the right places. I'd ditch those LEDs post haste and go back to halogens for the moment. If you want a REAL good upgrade that costs much less than an HID retrofit but performs better get yourself a set of Sylvania 100w/80w H4's. They're intended for "off road" use but are bright as shit and keep the same light pattern to avoid blinding oncoming drivers. The bulbs are cheap enough but buy a couple of replacements because they'll burn out quicker than stock wattage halogens due to putting out more heat. Then get a wiring harness that uses your factory plug to switch a relay that then uses heavier gauge wire connected directly to the battery. DO NOT USE THESE WITH A STOCK HARNESS! The added draw/heat/resistance will cause a dangerous situation. Four bulbs and a wiring harness will cost much much less than an HID retrofit but will outperform most all of them in real world use. If you want a real budget upgrade that's what you want to do with your 9004 housings.
Nah. I drive this vehicle like 2,000 miles a year. I'll just keep those.
Finally found the 1/8 to complete the set
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