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Because in surfing you need to get under the wave in order not to get toss or killed. You want to duck dive to get out of the washer effect. I think a good thing would be a system that deploys when triggered. A system that is passive like a life jacket will end up getting a person killed faster.
I love surfing, and boy does it have a way of humbling you.
Nice vids. That one haituda posted looks like tehapu (spelling). Thick ass wave. I did 12footers @ ehukai once. That was enough for me! :)