How to clean sand out of AR

Man, if anyone wants to take this bet with me, I'll gladly pay $20 to watch you sand up your AR, then drink some scotch (maybe share if I'm feeling generous) as I watch you try to get it clean.

Sounds like you got had.

I've heard an AR won't fire with Grape Jelly in the action and I've got $20.

I think you guys have the wrong picture, I dropped it in sand, with the dust cover closed and kicked some sand on it. I didnt bury it 6 feet of sand of a week. And I had to prove a point that AR's arent pieces of shit and AK run circles around them.

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Originally Posted by drift_g35

I think you guys have the wrong picture, I dropped it in sand, with the dust cover closed and kicked some sand on it. I didnt bury it 6 feet of sand of a week. And I had to prove a point that AR's arent pieces of shit and AK run circles around them.

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Aren't there about 1,000 youtube videos of this that could have proved your point?

Local Smartass: "I'll bet you $20 that you can't hit yourself in the nuts with a hammer 6 times..."

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Originally Posted by Circuits

The maker of my tank (Sharper Tek) warns that "mirror finishes on aluminum can be dulled" from cleaning in an ultrasonic tank, and recommend use of a "dispersion plate" they sell if you're going to be cleaning mirror-finished aluminum pieces. I don't believe the same applies to the hard-coat anodized surfaces of an AR upper and lower, but who knows?

I use simple green aircraft as my detergent, and haven't noticed any negative effects on the uppers or lowers I've cleaned in my tanks, but I haven't gone through a dozen cycles on any of the parts yet, as I only dunk the rifles if they're extra filthy (usually after MG rentals), otherwise I still just clean by hand. I've also done big batches of magazines in my tanks, using one for a simple green cleaning pass, then a quick dunk in light oil to displace the water and lubricate them before letting them drip drain and air dry.

I have several smaller tanks I use for BCG assemblies and other small parts - but those are steel, anyway. For large enough tanks, handguns can just be dropped in the basket with the slide locked open, or cylinder swung out. Single actions I disassemble and drop the frame and cylinder as two pieces.

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Thx, this is exactly the feedback I was looking for. Now I just need to go buy a couple bags of sand. LOL.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009R...&robot_redir=1

Yes I own it and it works great. I should note I've only used the Hornady brand cleaner in mine. Others report simple green works great also.

It will fit both of my uppers 14.5" and 16" with no issue. I'm sure a 18" would fit.

You cannot get the entire lower into the tank without removing the grip and stock. With those removed it would fit just find but I simply turn it upside down and suspend the lower with the bands provided.

Ive put both a Noveske and a Spikes in there and not had any issues. I've put almost every gun I own short of AK and shotties since they don't fit.

It seems like it's hard on finishes, especially the Nitron on my Sigs, but after they are done cleaning I rinse with water, blow them dry and then wipe them down with oil and they shine right back up.

For a really dirty gun there is nothing better. For quick cleaning it's overkill. It takes a bit of time to make sure you've got all the water out of the nooks and crannies.

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Originally Posted by Brian

Sorry, I didn't word that very well, but that was my point. I've heard very mixed reviews on what you can and cannot use in one of these. Hornady clearly advertises it's made for cleaning upper receiver groups and small parts, but then the vast "wisdom" of the internet seems to claim you can't dump your lower in it, or it will dissolve into fairy dust or something. I shoot a lot suppressed, and the idea that I could disassemble the gun and drop it in a tank, dirty mags and all, is really appealing. But not if it's going to somehow mess with the anodizing or something.

Would really like to hear from someone who has dunked their AR a few dozen times.

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The real issue with US cleaners is the ultra high frequency vibrations imparted on your components.
This will cause finely fitted components to "fret" against each other. In extreme cases this can cause undue wear of those nicely fitted and precision honed components. Now add debris such as sand to the equation and you may as well be cleaning with a 220 grit orbital sander.
US cleaners are fine if you remember a couple of things:
1- rinse the majority of crud off first.
2- don't put assembled components in.
3- only clean the components long enough to get them clean, don't just toss things in for an hour.

Want proof? Toss a precision bearing in a US cleaner and let it sit there for an hour or two.

He needs to sell the gun, I'll give you 20 bucks