Jewish lightening cylinder repair ?Quote:
Originally Posted by USMC88-93
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Jewish lightening cylinder repair ?Quote:
Originally Posted by USMC88-93
I'm sorry but that reference traveled well above my head. Unless I understand it to mean throwing money at the problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by Great-Kazoo
We just picked up a used '03 Forest River 37' 5th wheel. It's in fantastic shape and everything works just fine. It's not for "camping"...we're gonna use it to temporarily live in while we look for a house once we make the move to the NW. We figured we'd stop in a place, check it out, move on if we don't find something we like.
It's our first really large trailer. We had a 28' Trail-Lite before. It was nice but the difference in room (with 3 slides) and creature comforts are like night and day. We've progressed in age to the point our "camper" is more of a base camp for visiting other places...not for out in the woods type camping. We almost always stop at a campground with hook-ups and the modern conveniences. The down side is this rig is heavy. I haven't pulled it yet but I can see where it could be a challenge in some places.
Nice. I have friends who partially retired last year, rented the house here in CO and they have been living in their 5th wheel since then. For him having a good internet connection is all he needs for work. They spend their winter in TX and Florida (where their children live) and are moving back north for the summer. He did mention that pulling a 5th wheel through OK and northern TX with a 40mph counterwind required a LOT of patience!Quote:
Originally Posted by Bailey Guns
With the right rig and some patience you will do fine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ruthabagah
DON'T BUY THIS. I am returning them to Amazon today. Way too light for my taste... I would not trust them to hold my panel on the roof while driving down the highway...
Bummer, looks like a nice kit at first glance.
Yep... It's probably great for a boat or an install where it is not exposed to aerodynamic. Going back to Z Bracket.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave_L
i have been pulling large trailers and travel trailers for the better part of 25 years. best advice is to get the biggest tow vehicle you can now (minimum 3/4 ton) if you enjoy it you will inevitably upgrade to a larger trailer, this leads to needing a larger truck, get that truck now and make the expense just once.
When we bought our first used RV, we did several short overnight trips before heading out on a vacation. It helped out some, more with familiarity than mechanical, but we never needed a tow truck.Quote:
Originally Posted by USMC88-93
We had probably 700-800 miles on it before our first extended trip.
We experienced some minor mech issues over the several years we ran it, but we were never stranded.
We thought it was a good idea, but YMMV.
I will add to my previous post that if they like the cabin layout, and the only issues are drive-train related, the engine swap is likely the most equitable solution.
My opinion, and I'm sure others will vary.
Hope they get it worked out and enjoy their travels.
thanks for the info. I haven't purchased it yet. I'll probably do a normal metal z bracket. Bolt the panel to the camper.Quote:
Originally Posted by ruthabagah
Z brackets are the way to go if you have a standart rubber roof. I was able to fix the pannel on the roof in 15 min including prep time. Don't forget to order a good roof sealant!Quote:
Originally Posted by gnihcraes
How are you guys wiring the panel in? Do you still a hole or keep the wires outside direct to the battery or where does all the rest of the stuff go? Need to figure out the solar stuff as I would like to install a single panel on mine. I have one of those little ones that Is 5w and it keeps one of the batteries topped off if not in use but won't charge, just kind of my tender while it sits and even then the little bit of draw from the camper still pulls it down a little bit.
Yeah the 5w ones will only trickle charge a battery but are not enough for a deep cycle battery to be repleted.Quote:
Originally Posted by sniper7
I did 5 install (2 of mine and helped 3 friends) and, Except if you have a pop up camper, the easiest way down from the roof is through the fridge vent. Installing the panel on the roof is the easy part, deciding where to run the wire and actually running them can be a frustrating job....
Each time, I choose to bypass the electrical panel in the camper and directly feed the battery. It is more wire, but at the end if is easier to add a shut off switch for the panel if you decide to do so, and less complexity.
So basically my schema look like this: Panel, wire to charge controller running from the roof, through the fridge vent, Charge controller installed somewhere near the fridge, but not too visible BECAUSE THEY PUT SOME BRIGHT FRAKING LED LIGHT ON THEM AND THEY CAN FLASH IN YOUR FACE ALL NIGHT! Run another set of wire from the controller directly to the battery (for these, I usually go down, through the floor and under the frame). Add a shut off switch (could be any kind of car switch) just before the battery.
Your next question will be: "why do i need a shut off switch?" I personally remove my battery in winter, and I prefer to have my battery connector inert when there is no need to recharge anything.
Please note / disclaimer: This will work fine for a less than 10 amp install. Over 10 amp, you will most likely need beefier parts and/or will need to connect your panel to your camper electrical panel.
Finally: Installing panel on a brand new pop up camper was a mess and I will never do it again.... 1- the roof was not flat: we had to use 2 different size of z braket to create a angle for the panel so that it would not shake at moderate highway speed. 2- had to drill a hole through the roof to pass the wires (voiding the warranty) 3- what do you do with wires on a pop up roof? That look tacky, until a few week later, when my friend found and ordered some telephone cord look alike electrical wire (he pay a SHITLOAD of money for these).
De you have to drill through the roof to install the z brackets?
Not through the roof. Short Stainless Steel screw through the upper plywood layer of the roof. (For my 2 install, the roof was a "sandwich" of plywood and foam covered by a "rubber" layer).
One tip I learned: Mount your z bracket on your panel, position the panel on the roof (not too close to an ac unit or anything that can create some shade), mark with a sharpie where your bracket are / touch the roof, remove panel with bracket and where the marks are, make a large cone shape with roof sealant. Set the panel's bracket in the middle of the sealant. screw the bracket to the roof. This should not only act as a weather seal, but also act as an adhesive to keep your bracket stuck on the roof.
One more thing: Do NOT use cheap silicon, get a real RV roof sealant. Silicon is NOT UV resistant.
Great info! just need to figure out which panel I want now
Well we went to Moab over the weekend and took the camper. We stayed in an RV park which was nice for the first trip. Made me realize how fast the tanks fill up (more so the grey). No big deal with hook ups but will definitely have to watch it while dry camping. It was very nice having a camper to come back to after a day of ATVing. Also made a list of stuff we wish we had or wanted to add before the next trip.
Yep the grey tank will fill fast if you do not adjust your water usage in a camper.
Basic rules when we go dry camping:
* brush your teeth without running the water in the sink
* run the shower to get yourself wet, then to rinse.
* want an extra shower? Use the exterior shower on the camper with the eco friendly soap
* use some paper plates, paper cups, aluminum trays and only wash the utensil. Dish washing is water intensive. You can start a fire with paper plates (check the label first to see what they are made of), and the rest you pack out.
Finally, I used to have a grey water tote (http://www.adventurerv.net/thetford-...on-p-8946.html). this was convenient, but required a lot of storage room either on board or in the tow vehicle.
^Yup. All good rules there. My wife is a life time camper girl but we didn't really pay attention since we had hook ups. It was a good trial run. I'd like to add some solar next even though I have a generator. Be nice to not have to run that out in the woods.
Oh and the Duramax hauled it like a champ. 13 mpg on the way out, 11.5 on the way back. 65-70 mph up the backside of Vail pass, no problem. I just need a bigger tank so I don't have to fuel up so much. :(
Get a garden hose adapted cap that fits the large outflow line. Put a short section of garden hose on it and occasionally you release the grey water. If you are in an area with people watching just fill a bucket and carry into the woods to dump. It is just soapy water and does not kill anything and it's not hazardous to anyone.
We camp a lot in the summer. Have a 20 foot travel trailer, but it has a 55gal fresh water tank. NICE size tank for a small trailer and only wife, me and a 9yr old. We love to conserve as much water as possible so we can take nice showers every day.! I get mighty filthy and stinky riding the dirt bike all day. We use paper plates for eating. We have several dozen forks, knife, spoons. We use them once, than toss them in the "dirty dishes bag". Brush teeth outside the trailer using bottled water. Spit in the camp fire. any plastic bowls or plates we use, we use once. Clear the plate in the fire, put in the dirty dishes bag. Cast iron gets cleaned after use using.. well, its cast iron. Wipe clean. Get home and put all the silverware in the dishwasher along with any pots/ pans that need it. Put back in trailer. Walla, lots of water saved!!!
When we camped, we saved water by using a Luggable Loo. I had one couple outraged we were using a plastic bucket instead of the one in the camper. You do realize the only difference is the place waste ends up, right? PLUS we use no water for solids, pay a dump site fee and once sealed is biodegradable . While you have to buy "special" TP, and waste water to flush.
https://sp.yimg.com/ib/th?id=JN.D5ij...g&pid=15.1&P=0
All utensils are disposable, almost every food item is pre-cooked (except eggs) seal a meal frozen, then as things defrost eat. Saves on ice, gives one more room int he coolers, less food prep, concerns about cross contamination etc . Like colorider, any non disposable utensils & cook ware is wiped then cleaned, once home.
Outside the water heater we keep X amount of water buckets outside, utilizing the sun for hot water. Along with one of those solar shower bags.
Way too comfy for meQuote:
Originally Posted by Great-Kazoo
Attachment 58573
Finally finished with the solar installation on my camper. Started a month ago but because of work and weather I just finished 10 min ago.Attachment 58660Attachment 58661Attachment 58662
it was a lot more work on this one because there was almost no available space behind the fridge to run the wires. I had to remove the fridge vent completely (there is a non removable screen on top to avoid getting bugs and leaves behind the fridge) and runs flexible conduit to avoid having electrical rubbing with the back of the fridge components> Getting about 4amp right now, which is expected since the panel is flat and not pointing at the sun. The charge controller should give me a 24h report tomorrow as to how many amp/h were generated.
Very cool! I definitely need to get off my butt and do this!
ordered up my stuff a couple days ago. I'll get started on my setup once it arrives. (100 watt panel, charge controller etc)
this kit: http://www.amazon.com/Renogy-100W-Mo...y+solar+panels
Good choice. did you upgrade for the LCD charge controller or took the standard one? The one that come with the package is fine, but limited if you want to add more panel down the line. I did the same thing, returned the one to renogy and they send me a replacement the same day.Quote:
Originally Posted by gnihcraes
Now what you need to complete this:
* Roof sealant (I use a LOT so I usually order 2 of them) : http://www.amazon.com/Products-017-1...words=sikaflex
* Cable Clamp: http://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender...ic+cable+clamp
* If you don't have one, I would strongly suggest a long drill bit (In a camper the connections are often all bunched up behind panels and other. This will allow you to drill with a lot a clearance around other connections/electrical) : http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-39106-8-...long+drill+bit
* depending on the length of your camper, 30 to 50 ft of 12 gauge electrical cable to go from the charge controller to the battery (if you choose to do it this way) less if you plug directly in the fuse box.
* stainless self drilling screws. I have used them for all my built and they work great.
* Ring terminal connector to connect to your battery.
Not required, but if you have one, or can borrow one, it will help a lot for running the wire: Inspection Camera. Again, I have found that neatly tucked behind a panel you could find anything and the unexpected.... Electrical, plumbing, gas line.... Just like in a house but probably worse.
Do it Man, Do it. Nice project and totally worth it. It will also add value to your camper if you decide to sell it.Quote:
Originally Posted by sniper7
Overall time to completion 4 h. And that was because I had to reroute my electrical around the fridge, instead of a direct drop from the fridge vent.
I have always used, and would recommend Dicor over Sika. I love Sika products for their polyurethane concrete joint fillers, but IMHO, EPDM roofs should be done with Dicor.
YMMV
http://www.amazon.com/Dicor-Rubber-S...keywords=dicor
Always handy to have a little on hand if you have a habit of dragging your rig through any trees. Hell, some of the older improved campgrounds we go to it's easy to snag a tree and tear/cut the EPDM roof when you're trying to make that tight corner with a 30+ 5th wheel.
I did upgrade the controller I believe, can't remember now. (edit, just looked, no I took the default controller, i can upgrade later)Quote:
Originally Posted by ruthabagah
I'm working with a popup camper, and might not even mount this to the roof. (for now anyways) I'll just stick the panel in the camper while traveling and then set it up once camped.
Thanks for the other information, sealant and offer of the camera. I'm not sure what I'll do, since working with the popup, I have multiple points of entry into the camper without hitting lines and such, especially if I don't go through the roof. I was originally going to get the boat rack for the top of the camper and then use that as the mounting point of the panel(s). I'm getting on a short time frame and might not have time to get all the things done I want for now.
oh, i also ordered two of these, I will mount one on each end of the camper so we can keep cell phones and such items charged up.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00..._detailpages00
Attachment 58668
Any reason not to buy a portable kit like this:
https://www.solarblvd.com/product_in...oducts_id=2748
I understand the convenience of hard wiring and roof mounted but I like the idea of being able to park under the trees and place the panel in the sun, where ever that may be. Also no drilling into the roof.
That is what I current
Y do, set the panel out in the sun. Still experimenting with what I like to do. My camping setup is also a bug out or SHTF setup. I try to cover all bases with how thing get setup.
My new rig came pre wired for solar! Just add the panel which plugs into a port by the front storage door. I personally run a Yamaha ef3000iseb generator. I've added a few personal touches to it including a 3" lift (will be here Tuesday)....it has Dexter Torflex torsion axles so no leaf springs.
http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/q...psqti96biz.jpg
One major reason for me: my first ever solar panel (cheap harbor freight 15w) was stolen one day in a national forest campground... if it aint bolted, somebody will steal it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave_L
Nice rig! That's a lot of roof space for some serious solar power.Quote:
Originally Posted by opie011
Did it come factory with the McD's sign or was that aftermarket?Quote:
Originally Posted by opie011
I could fit some good sized panels up there! Also, every interior light is LED [Awesom]Quote:
Originally Posted by ruthabagah
Not necessarily aftermarket just an upgrade!Quote:
Originally Posted by brutal
There were two motor homes in that lot (HWY 119 and I-25), reminded me of Eddie's RV from Christmas Vacation....shi++ers full. It was comical, they were parked bumper to bumper with one running a generator with an extension cord out their windows feeding power to the other camper. Oh and when the wind picked up, smelt like a sewage plant as one of them had a cracked and leaking sewer drain dripping onto the ground.
Covers up that meth lab smell.Quote:
Originally Posted by opie011