We made quite a few custom billet stroker cranks for the Cummins. I never saw the reasoning for doing them with the exception of the longer stroke. The engine and rearend/axles are solid. The rest of the truck not so much.
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We made quite a few custom billet stroker cranks for the Cummins. I never saw the reasoning for doing them with the exception of the longer stroke. The engine and rearend/axles are solid. The rest of the truck not so much.
Last two cars I've owned were Chryslers. The 1993 Dodge Intrepid was an excellent car, well built, lasted forever without any major problems (biggest problem I had was a leak in the AC system). Now we have a 2002 PT Cruiser ... this will be my last Chrysler too ... at 80000 it's falling apart.
[beatdeadhorse]
Let's try something different.
Sig Sauer is the best gun ever built now and forever, all other guns before, during, and after, are poop.
Stop that. [Flower] Just like many have said for every bad one..... My 98 Dodge has had about $400 and two items replaced in the 175K miles it has on it. The outlaws have our old Astro van. one water pump, one tune up and it is still going @ 200K.Quote:
Originally Posted by brutal
what happned to cause the engine to blow?
Originally, 4 months ago I took it into the dealership because it was running really rough. During this visit, they diagnosed it as having issues with the lifters AND there was damage to the spark plugs that required they be replaced too. This trip cost me $400 for the plug replacement and the lifters were replaced under the warranty.Quote:
Originally Posted by cofi
Apparently, when this maintenance was performed, they failed to remove all of the debris from the engine. The following six times I had taken it in within the past 4 months was related to this "oversight" on their part. On the eighth return visit, they finally realized what the issue was and at this point, cylinders 5, 6, and 8 were destroyed. This IS why they replaced the engine and is why I'll never take my truck to this shop for service ever again.
Funny thing, a month after posting this I had to replace my ball joints. I guess 165000 miles was enough to finally kill them. Then I go to Big O and they tell me I cant get an alignment because the locking nuts on the tie rod ends wont move without destroying the tie rods. Yeah I'll replace those myself.Quote:
Originally Posted by speedysst
As the saying goes....."if it's got tits or wheels, it'll give you problems".
This stuff is real easy to me
cars, all of them are junk
1/2tons are a little better than cars
8lug is better than 1/2ton by significant margin
All these kinds of threads, always 1/2ton and cars. buy something built to work and 9/10 is a much btter built and designed vehicle. Dont want to pay the price for one, want the comfy ride, quiet car, then you pay to have the car in failed parts.
All makes and models have bad years, components, etc. The big 3 pretty much source major assemblies from about 6 major suppliers, and there can be crossover. While I do not like Ford's marketing nor their defense tactics, I won't say "never" cause things can change (ie S&W and Ruger). The specific models are worth looking at. However, due to the high incidence of fires in Fords (yes, I have investigated them and have been qualified in court) my family won't be having one anytime soon.
If you know me and know what I do for a living...or even if you don't, here are my impressions from working on a LOT of accidents, failures and fires where there was a significant enough event to get experts and attorneys involved. I have worked on and investigated recalls, NHTSA investigations and all manner of commercial and consumer vehicle incidents. Consumer reports is not a good source for safety information on vehicles, not really even maintenance issues. IIHS is only good for direct comparisons within the same weight class. While I did technically own a Ford (Probe) it was basically a Mazda. I have owned somewhere in the neighborhood of 30 vehicles from compacts to 1 tons. I drive a 2003 Silverado, a 2006 GTO and my wife drives a 2010 Dodge 1500 Longhorn.
Automatic transmissions: change the fluid every 30 to 35K, preferably use synthetic.
Brakes, mostly learn to drive. On my 2003 Silverado with 145K, I am still on my original front brakes and 2nd set of rear brakes. In 80K, my wife went through 3 sets of brakes on a Suburban. She is much better now though. Save your brakes, improve your gas mileage and longevity of the front end components.
Never buy the smallest offered engine on any vehicle.
YES, the more expensive trim levels ARE a bit better (reliability) than the economy trim vehicles in the same group. Is it worth the extra $... maybe.
Especially in Colorado, always get the trailer/tow package and or better engine cooling package if offered.
If you get a flexfuel vehicle, run gasoline, but run a tank of E85 every 7 to 8K or so.
Avoid MTBE like the plague
Use quality motor oils, change every 3 to 4K. Pennsoil, Quaker State and other parafin based oils are junk. Castrol, Lucas, Valvoline are asphalt based and much better. In most vehicles, synthetics are a waste. Yes, I did work in an oil analysis lab for 3 years and did much of my masters course work in tribology.
Nitrogen in your tires is a joke, but do keep them inflated. Cars about 35 psi and trucks about 40 to 45 psi. It does mater what the door tag says and what kind of tire you run.
Truck frames are generally safer than car frames.
The more a vehicle weighs, the better your chance of survival in a serious accident...if you use your seat belt.
If you have a teenager, consider the Ford Taurus/Merc Sable or the Saturn lines. Pound for pound, some of the safest and least expensive vehicles you can get. Some other safety gems...the Chevrolet Astro Vans, late 1990s through about 2005. 1996 through 2001 Dodge 3/4 tons.
If safety is really important to you, then you must do a lot of research BEFORE you get emotionally connected to a particular vehicle. Neptune Engineering crush coefficients, NHTSA crash tests, IIHS tests, independent lab tests must all be looked at by a skilled eye and then evaluated on a per vehicle basis.
If reliability is really important, buy a vehicle that is in the 4th or maybe 5th year of a model with very high consumer ratings. The first two and the last year of any model have higher incidents of issues.
Anyone who has ONLY one brand loyalty is probably unrealistic about other things too. Emotionally excluding a brand because of some perceived or real bad apple, hey, not a big deal to me. There are plenty of choices.
As for domestic vs. asian made...in general, at the SAME price point, you will generally get about equal value. The import tariffs are largely erased by the lower labor cost and technology theft. When you go European vs. domestic, for the SAME price point, the domestic is generally a better value.
The most dangerous thing that 95% of Americans will ever do is drive a car. The most dangerous maneuver most people will make driving a car...a left hand turn.
I hope that short list gives you a good base from which to make some choices.