Echoing Hoser - not *needed* for carbide; but I easily tack on +50% production by lubing on my LNL AP or SDB. I kind of hate one shot as a lube, though, so I do the Lanolin sprays.Quote:
Originally Posted by whitewalrus
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Echoing Hoser - not *needed* for carbide; but I easily tack on +50% production by lubing on my LNL AP or SDB. I kind of hate one shot as a lube, though, so I do the Lanolin sprays.Quote:
Originally Posted by whitewalrus
Oddly enough a 223 case with the base cut off fits that spent primer hole snug, with a tap of a soft hammer, enough it will never fall out. Mine had 100K on it and the oly time that case was out of there was for 10K pm'sQuote:
Originally Posted by Not_A_Llama
Absolutely.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoser
While not a fan of 1 shot for rifle, It's a great lube for pistol brass. Spray on, size & load. There's none of that light film you get with dillon case lube, or the home made stuff.
Question about the 1050 and 1100. Are the powder drops that they use any better than those for the 550? I have persistent issues getting a consistent measure of powder. I typically see +- .1 gn variation sometimes .2 on some powders. The marketing materials for the 1100 say it'll produce match grade ammo but wonder if that's true if it doesn't throw a consistent amount of powder like the 550.
As far as I know they're all the same ignoring a powder bar return design change about a decade or more ago.Quote:
Originally Posted by izzy
I think the Dillon Powder Measure Tips thread <-(Click this) may be of some help.
O2
Sweet, going to read that one now. Thank you.Quote:
Originally Posted by O2HeN2
Looks like the variation of +- 0.1 that I'm getting is "good" from reading that thread.
Yeah, so you really don’t want to be throwing “maximum” charges, at least I don’t, only when I am weighing every chargeQuote:
Originally Posted by izzy
A resilient accuracy node will probably be much wider than 0.1gr, so this (in my view) shouldn’t matter.Quote:
Originally Posted by izzy
When I'm loading pistol rounds I don't really care so much about the 0.1. With 223 I care more especially when I see higher standard deviation numbers on the chronograph.
What kind of effect on target have you seen, chasing SD?
Particularly with OCW-type load development, I've noticed that SD doesn't really have much correlation with group size (I did find better correlation with ES, which makes sense, given that most people don't measure group size as mean radius). As an overall trend, higher charges/pressures produce lower SD, but my velocity loads don't correlate with my accuracy loads.
It's so pronounced in my experience that I might even define an accurate load/node as one which is insensitive to SD. Which implies to me that the negative impact of poor node selection is far more detrimental than the impact of varying velocities.
FWIW: I find my Hornady measures are more accurate with Varget & friends than Dillon.
As you can probably tell I'm still pretty new to all this so I have pretty much no idea what you just said. Not sure what a "node" is. As far as looking at SD it's a number I figure is a case of lower the better. The goal for me may seem silly. One day while shooting with a friend we started asking "how far can we push an AR with a 16" barrel?" and ever since I've been working on loads to answer that question. Not looking at groups at all but just trying to ring steel. Knowing nothing more than consistency in powder and chronograph readings ect must be better that's been a thing I've been keeping track of. I do appreciate any lesson that can be handed down so please do correct me if I'm off base. I know my goal may seem ridiculous but I'm having fun.
Finally got around to setting up the XL750 for .45 acp...ran 100, need to make some small tweaks, but fairly happy with it. I now have toolheads setup for 4 calibers. Biggest issue I have is the priming system. The slidebar priming system still likes to start skipping primers right before the low primer alarm goes off(alarm goes off with about 4 primers left)(and yes, I have tried adding more weight to the rod). Also noticed I need to anchor my bench. If I go too fast, It will bounce primers out of the cup on the way to the shellplate which I attribute to bench movement.
Try thisQuote:
Originally Posted by izzy
https://www.ar-15.co/threads/30291-H...-a-new-reload?
Ha, I actually thought you were pretty advanced. Chasing SD’s is usually an advanced reloader’s pursuit. Heck, even owning a chronograph is usually an advanced practice.
A “node” mathematically can be thought of as a point along a curve on a chart. An accuracy node is a range of powder charges that produce high accuracy. You’ll find them here and there along the range of possible charge weights.
One approach that has influenced a lot of people’s thoughts on developing loads is “ Optimal charge weight“, or OCW. You can read up on the approach here: http://optimalchargeweight.embarqspa...ons/4529817134
I don’t believe the physics some people ascribe to it, but I do think it’s a sound approach.
While I think minimizing SD is a good practice, I haven’t seen low SDs predict my best groups. The impact of varying velocity can’t be denied, but it tells me that there are more important variables and metrics at play when we’re shooting for groups.
I don’t think you have a stupid pursuit - you’ll be able to exceed 1k in a 16” with discipline and 77gr SMKs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by izzy
I've been loading for maybe about 2-3 years or so, just started making rifle rounds in the past 6 months or so. I'm actually reading the recommended threads and they've provided some good info. I guess I'm advanced in that I'm an engineer by schooling and trade so I started measuring the results of my "experiments" pretty quickly. I know the physics pretty well but the math I'm willing/able to do doesn't often match the real world. I love hearing the feedback because it's the smallest things that set of that lightbulb moment for me. Thanks again.
Busy cranking out 1K rounds 9mm 115 FMJ
“Discovered” an almost perfect case lube for my application*. Mineral spirits. 5 drops in a freezer bag, rub around, toss in brass. Shake. Evaporates in about 3 hours. I unfortunately now have a gallon of a product that gets used 5 drops at a time.
*9mm progressive reloading. Desired characteristics: slick enough to smooth out the progressive reloading process, and not leave behind a residue (collect dust, increase bolt thrust). 99% isopropyl was perfect**, except that it evaporates too fast.
**Yes, weirdly, alcohol is a good lubricant.
July 13 update with more experience and less optimism: I now use a small squirt in a bag and rub. It seems to last maybe 2 hours. I might end up moving to spraying the cases. I’ve been concerned about the impact of the mineral spirits on primers, but initial experimentation indicates a drop of spirits in a casing will not inactivate the primer - perhaps provided some time has lapsed (tested at 24 hours). It may be less, or there might not be any delay needed..
Depending on it's use case, alcohol is a superior lubricant. [Coffee]Quote:
Originally Posted by Not_A_Llama
It is, most of the time, until one opens their mouth.Quote:
Originally Posted by brutal
Got 200rds of 380 and 200rds of 9mm loaded for this weekend.
Have you used a 650? I was wondering if it was even worth thinking about upgrading. Think the new priming system is a give and take, the old one with the rotary dial did a good job of getting any powder that may have spilled out of the system.Quote:
Originally Posted by 20X11
I have not used a 650. I ordered the brass priming tube ends from Unique Tek...we'll see if that makes a difference. I love everything else about the 750, but if I can't trust priming, it may be a deal breaker.Quote:
Originally Posted by whitewalrus
those ends are a copy of the original ones, used on the 450, then early &650(iirc) . Wish i knew i have 2-3 here i would have swapped for the newer ones.Quote:
Originally Posted by 20X11
Started inventorying my 300 blk components. I'm disillusioned with the round, so it may be on the chopping block . While quiet suppressed, i can do other things, with those powders and primers.
If you're trying to get rid of brass and or projectiles let me know please.Quote:
Originally Posted by Great-Kazoo
Samsies.Quote:
Originally Posted by izzy
Developed a nice sub moa load for my hornady 68gr and sierra 77's...... i already love 8208xbr
Started tumbling some brass from one of our very generous members.
too bad it's so difficult to find in 8lb kegs, or even the 1lb canisters. I ended up going over to 4064.Quote:
Originally Posted by jreifsch80
Yeah I have been looking around for quite some time for it. Even before the rona was going on.Quote:
Originally Posted by Great-Kazoo
Good ol powdervalley
I've seen 8208 in a store recently, problem is I don't know which one.
I just loaded 7 primer tubes as I'm prepping to load more subsonic 9mm. I have the roller handle on the press now so don't expect a blister on the palm of my hand this time.
If you can't locate a take off throttle grip sleeve, buy one of these.Quote:
Originally Posted by Linkless
http://www.uniquetek.com/product/T1527
They same places I see 8208xbr usually have 4064 varget and retumbo lol its nice going up to nebraska for work sometimes
Just worked another thousand of 9mm brass.
Ongoing 1100 odyssey. Root cause analysis on the last 50 stoppages showed 44 (88%) of them were related to the resize/decap station. Mostly sucked-back primers. The balance were mostly weird things like the base of the primer punching out, but leaving behind a "sleeve" of primer in the primer pocket.
The Dillon sizing die got much better with some decapping pin adjustments, but I screwed up three before concluding that I couldn't figure out the secret to consistently making one that avoided suckbacks.
Briefly used a Lee that was perfect in 500 rounds for not sucking back primers, but they've changed the design recently, and it doesn't size as low on the case as the Dillon dies.
I feel a little ridiculous, but I bought a Mighty Armory 9mm sizing die and decapping set for $130.
It has significantly improved my rate of production. No primer suckbacks at all, and the sizing force is much decreased. So too is the sizing action, and I'm a little concerned about setback, but we will see.
I also have installed a Mr. Bulletfeeder. Once I perfect the adjustments, I expect it to be amazing. For now, the forecast calls for extra-heavy rain.
Did you figure out that Hornady One Shot is magic?
I’ve used it, but find that lanolin spray or mineral spirits are better for my purposes. What do you like about it over the others?
No issues with primers/powder and you can leave it on. Mineral Spirits can turn into a sticky mess if you forget to clean it off. Lanolin spray like Dillon gets bad if you use too much and dont clean it off.Quote:
Originally Posted by Not_A_Llama