Interesting -
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nBhOjWHbD6M
Printable View
Interesting -
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nBhOjWHbD6M
AR34F Tactical Gun safe
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jBnLS840h5E
I have seen that before. Now part of the trick is they have to be able to get it on its back and they have to have room to leverage the bars. This is a good reason to have the safe securely attached to concrete. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by hip55
Mounted or not, a standalone safe only buys you some time.
That's why I only buy gun cabinets with glass panel doors. [Smart]
I have been drooling over that AR34 safe since it came out. Its "tacticool". [M2]Quote:
Originally Posted by hip55
How do you move these things if you get them?
Its not really that hard. Two or three people can lift one into the back of a pickup truck. You just leverage it on the tailgate not pick it straight up. You can use an appliance dolley or you can put golf balls underneath and roll on top of them over flat ground.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoosier
Fixed [Tooth]Quote:
Originally Posted by StagLefty
Very true, but there are some things you can do to buy some time:Quote:
Originally Posted by Graves
1-Hide the safe in plain sight. A gutted refrigerator works well as does building it into a closet.
2-Secure it to the structure. In a wood frame you really only have 2 choices, lag it to structural beams or if you have access below, get some long u-bolts made and go around floor joists. In concrete you can RedHead them down.
3-Alarm the safe itself. Just a cheap tilt or motion sensor hooked up to a LOUD siren works wonders.
4-Make it as heavy as possible. False flooring the safe and putting in lead ingots or similar will quickly add 300# or so to it.
5- Strengthen the doorframe of the safe. Most safes are just formed sheet steel. A little inginuity with 1/4" bar stock or angle will really make it vitrtually impossible to pry one open. It doesnt matter if you have 1' locking bolts all the way around if the frame is flimsy 14 gauge.
Theives suck[M2]