Chainsaw 2013

Looks like the last chainsaw thread was lost in the Great Crash.

Pulled out the saws and got them ready wood cutting season.

The Stihl is an MS290, 56.5cc with a 20" blade I pick up last year. Easily cut 10 cords of wood last summer plus some mitigation around the neighborhood. Never missed a beat. There are sites that argue what the best saw/size is. Really, there are. [Coffee] For what I do and the fact that the dealer/repair shop is in town made it a no brainer.

The second saw is a 15+ year old Craftsman/Poulan, 36cc, 16" blade. This is my "love hate" saw. I love to hate it. Every time I'm ready to toss it on the trash pile, it starts running. Great limber, when it runs.

http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL59.../407063569.jpg

In an ongoing endeavour to never leave well enough alone, I did some mods this winter.

First up was a 3/8" RS (Rapid Super) chain. These (yellow link) chains are more aggressive than the stock RM3 (green link) chains.

RS on top and RM3 on the bottom.
http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL59.../407063564.jpg

Second was a muffler mod. Newer saws have to meet EPA guidelines. We all know what that means. Opening up the exhaust ports, in the muffler, helps the saw breath better and improve response.

Stock config.
http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL59.../407063568.jpg

A peek down the exhaust channel.
http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL59.../407063567.jpg

Stock exit.
http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL59.../407063566.jpg

Modified exit.
http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL59.../407063565.jpg

Opened up exit port with required spark arrestor still in tact.
http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL59.../407063573.jpg

Seat of the pants impressions are the saw has better response, does not bog down as easily and is not noticeably louder. I wear hearing protection and live in the sticks, so noise is not really a factor. I need some more time behind the saw to say if there is more power.

The RS chain is definitely a better cutter compared to stock.

Total time for the above mods was about 20min.

Did a muffler mod on the Craftsman too. We'll see if it helps.

Stock exhaust.
http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL59.../407063572.jpg

Opened up the channel holes and added some more.
http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL59.../407063571.jpg

Opened up the exhaust ports.
http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL59.../407063570.jpg

Interesting safety display.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q5jW2HWV7ww

Yeah the chaps seem to work, but he'll picking thread out of his saw forever. I've seriously looking at these in the Bailey's catalog. Never saw a demo like this.

-are the Stihl chaps the way to go in terms of that kind of product?

I have the Stihl chaps. Fortunately, I can't answer your question. [Beer]

I'm way behind on firewood production this year. Mostly due to a deck project and a bad shoulder that's keeping me from using my saws. But I do have lots of deck lumber to burn.

I wear a pair of the Stihl's also but have never tested them.

Been out cutting a couple of days a week for the last six weeks. The saw mods were definitely worth it. The motor has better power and the chain is like night and day.

Luckily, the chaps still have not been tested.

I have been using a chain saw for many years and never considered these chaps. It looks like it's time to go shopping and spend a couple bucks for the insurance provided by these chaps.

Thanks for sharing this!

Did the Craftsman run better?

I started wearing chaps a few years ago. Used not to bother me but I'm kinda attached to my legs.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Irving

Did the Craftsman run better?

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Didn't really use it this year.

Just picked up a chain saw tonight. It is in need of repair. I know ZERO about chain saws, so I guess this will be the next thing I research.

I meant to ask you back when you first started this thread about those chains. It is difficult for me to tell the difference between them. Looks like the more aggressive one has more cutting surface maybe?

Stihl has a chain in all sizes. Just get a link count for your saw. Stihl changed up their chain IDs last year. RS is the more aggressive.
http://www.stihlusa.com/products/cha...saw-chains/rs/

What is wrong with the saw you picked up? What kind?

No idea. Haven't even looked at it yet. I'll bump this thread when I get around to looking at it. I think it probably just needs cleaned out and tuned up.

When you need chains go here. http://www.baileysonline.com/ They always have specials. And parts for the better brand saws. Even big-bore kits. They have oregon chains and a private label brand likely made by Oregon. Last chains came with free synthetic oil. lots of aftermarket parts too. You can get a Non anti-kickback chain and it will cut a bit faster. Setting the cut depth for softwood (the wave shaped bump) will make the chain bite deeper too.

If you are inexperienced at using a chainsaw, please start with the low kickback chain. I've cut 40-50 trees and finally buying more aggressive chain.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Irving

Just picked up a chain saw tonight. It is in need of repair. I know ZERO about chain saws, so I guess this will be the next thing I research.

I meant to ask you back when you first started this thread about those chains. It is difficult for me to tell the difference between them. Looks like the more aggressive one has more cutting surface maybe?

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Thanks for the tips guys!

In watching the video, I noticed a REALLY loose chain after attacking the first chaps. Almost looked like all those loose threads knocked the chain right off the sprocket. Anyone else notice this??

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BlasterBob

In watching the video, I noticed a REALLY loose chain after attacking the first chaps. Almost looked like all those loose threads knocked the chain right off the sprocket. Anyone else notice this??

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It didn't look like the chain came off the sprocket. I wonder if the added tension shortened the bar length. How much holding force are the two bolts designed to hold?

I generally cut 8-12 cords per year. I've a complete teardown at the start of a season helps. What many people overlook is the fuel line. Over time, in our dry climate, these things develop microscopic cracks that affect the vaccum. Replacing it once a year is a cheap fix that helps keep my saw in top shape. I run a Husquvarna 562 with a 20" bar. Like was said earlier, the saw brand debate is as hot as the piston/DI debate on gun forums. The tipping point for me is the lighter weight of the huskies. Time on a fire line taught me the bonus to carrying the lighter saw.

Poulan wild thing 18" 40cc.

Been a great saw for the little I use them. Never a hickup until yesterday. Didn't want to stay running without partial choke.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/07/aguma3u9.jpg

sent from my GS4 via tapatalk 4

Hey Pook, do you happen to do chain saw repair for a living? I need some engine rebuild work done on both my Husqvarnas.


Here are my tools, a Husky 335XTP arborist saw with 14" bar, my trusty old 1983 Husky Rancher 61 with 20" bar, a workhorse Stihl 036 Pro with 20" bar, and my hot rod Stihl MS200T arborist saw with 14" bar (when it was new). These have all cut a lot of wood for me on thousands of fruit trees in Palisade as well as big Englemann Spruce and Sub-alpine Fir in the mountains of Boulder County.


http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g2...ChainSaws3.jpg


http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g2...mmers-200T.jpg

Ah pook, look up Wranglerstar Chainsaw winch for an alternative idea for your poulan.

Just got my Stihl combination weed whacker/brush cutter back from the local Stihl authorized shop. The primer bulb was totally inoperable due to some major cracks and holes in it. Was advised the ethanol in the fuel is doing considerable damage to plastic parts and that shop is being deluged with small engines being damaged by the fuel. Long term storage without totally emptying ALL the fuel apparently takes it's toll on these saws. However I've had one of the older Stihl chainsaw for well over 30 years and have NEVER emptied the fuel tank or lines and just only recently had to finally replace the fuel lines and have the carb rebuilt. Pretty lucky I guess.[blaster]

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ah Pook

It didn't look like the chain came off the sprocket. I wonder if the added tension shortened the bar length. How much holding force are the two bolts designed to hold?

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Maybe the chain did remain on the sprocket but that is about the loosest (is that a word?) I have ever seen a chain. You could be right that the two nuts may have just lost their tension and allowed the bar to move back. I have been cutting my firewood for about 34 years have never had/used chaps but I can now see a huge safety advantage of wearing them.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hummer

Hey Pook, do you happen to do chain saw repair for a living? I need some engine rebuild work done on both my Husqvarnas.

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I fix my own stuff but that's about it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Irving

Ah pook, look up Wranglerstar Chainsaw winch for an alternative idea for your poulan.

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That looks interesting.

All the gasoline additives will cause a shellac in the carbs pretty quick, also.

Maybe that is the design so the chain doesn't snap. Picked up a pair of chaps with my last saw. Figured they were cheap insurance. They do keep my pants cleaner.

Got my chaps in the mail from Bailey's on Friday. Made in USA. Sorta heavy for being ass-less. Probably gonna ad some suspenders.

I run a Stihl Farmboss from 1997. Who knows how many chains I've used up. Runs like a champ.

16" Stihl, 20" Poulan and a little homlite electric for around the house stuff. Poulan was the first and while it is heavier, it has more shock absorbtion so less engine feel in the left hand. Makes for an easier time when cutting 2 cord of logs down to size without stopping. That said, can't beat the Stihl for how truly solid it feels and the proven reliability. Typically like to run one until its hot enough to need a rest and switch to the other, then repeate!

Try "mechanic in a bottle". Sounds like snake oil , but it freed up my string trimmer doing the same thing. I think it is just tough carb cleaner in a tiny bottle. Only a few bucks. Wont fix a physical problem but did clean out the gunk.