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Looking to purchase a Cummins. I have been looking off and on for a long while now. This truck is exactly what I've had in mind but wanted to see where his pricing was at on it. Anyone care to share what type of price point a truck like this should fetch?
Oops forgot the link.....http://denver.craigslist.org/ctd/4157495237.html
KBB is putting it about the same ..
NADA is saying more like 15…. But that might be an options thing…
Despite the crazy low miles on that truck, the NADA value is a lot more realistic in this situation...Quote:
Originally Posted by clublights
The guy will get the asking price on it diesel pickups are going for ridiculous money right now the low miles and standard trans will let it sell
Exactly that's why I'm thinking hard about buying it.
It is at a dealer so you might be able to negotiate a bitQuote:
Originally Posted by T-Giv
Already did. Got a great trade deal setup and essentially I'd be getting the truck for $21,500. Just waiting on final approval from wifey to move forward. Any diesel gurus want to come look it over for me? I'll pay you a fair price since this is my first diesel and I don't know what I'm really doing yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by DFBrews
That's more than I paid for my 2001 dodge cummins (nearly identically equipped) with 40k miles in 2005. That price is more in line with a late 3rd gen cummins pickup. A vp44 powered dodge(2nd gen) is a 10k ish range priced truck.
The front suspension issues the 2nd gen dodge truck has alone are a reason I'd avoid it. Here's a short list of problems you will have with that truck or upgrades that are almost mandatory:
1. swapping the track bar setup to the 3rd gen version
2. ball joints (all the weight of the truck sits on the lower ball joint in the front)
3. the dash will crack to pieces and need replaced
4. the vp44 injection pump is not fed sufficiently by the stock lift pump setup. The stock lift pump needs replaced with a FASS or equivalent. (doing the injection pump yourself is a minimum $1200 repair. Extending the life of the injection pump with an aftermarket lift pump is in the $500-800 range.
5. the bottoms of the front doors will rust.
6. worst stock headlights ever, almost intolerable to drive at night
7. stock intake plenum gasket is subject to pop along with the head gasket from the extra heat having a boost leak causes
8. stock intercooler boots are questionable at best
9. speedo and tach like to go out when the speed sensor in the rear axle goes
10. that nv5600 transmission is as much to rebuild as a lot of automatics are. bearings and synchros are not readily available.
11. the nv5600 transmission has a lubrication problem with the 6th gear due to the design of the case
12. it could have the dreaded 53 block, which will crack at some point.
http://denver.craigslist.org/ctd/4134789071.html this truck is way more in line with the price of a cummins pickup, and then it's only worth 15k.
Hmm now I'm having second thoughts. I'd much prefer to buy something with super low miles like this one but I guess it is a Cummins so 150k is still breaking in?
Save yourself the headache and buy a Duramax
on those newer pickups (post 02) the injectors can become a concern over 100k miles... The prior to 02 have mechanical injectors where the injection pump itself controls the injectors. Starting in 2003 the injectors are pressurized through a common rail and computer chips on the injectors themselves control the injection. Injectors with chips in them are a lot more expensive to replace than the older style mechanical ones. The issue with the 24valve motors in the 2nd gen trucks is the injection pump. It's computer controlled and the computer has a stupid high rate of failure, which will at some point leave you stranded. Another weak point of the 98.5-2002 trucks is the APPS or accelerator pedal position sensor. It's the computerized version of a throttle cable. It will also at some point leave you stranded.Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Giv
My advice would be to get a 98 12 valve if you're looking for an older cummins. The 98s have the opening rear doors and the 12 valve motor, which has mechanical injectors and a mechanical injection pump called a p7100 pump.
No matter what second gen pickup you decide on if you go with the older body style first and foremost look on the side of the block on the passenger side towards the rear of the block and look for the casting number. If it says 53, walk away. Or prepare to buy a new block at some point.
Or buy a duramax, and stock up on tie rod ends
I would all for a 12v but haven't found any with low miles that were still 4wd. I guess I was just drawn to this one due to meeting my criteria for what I wanted. Guess I need to sleep on it and see where I'm at. I appreciate the recommendations.
Wow, mine is 5 years newer, also a 5.9 with standard and I don't think I could sell mine for close to that.
13. They ride like shit, get a tank has to be smoother.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alf Tanner
Quote:
Originally Posted by JMBD2112
THIS^^^^^^^^^
06 07 best years for the Duramax more power than Dodge, less trouble, and ride of a caddy.
Seems a bit high to me. Of course, most of the ones I've seen that were about the same year model had quite a bit more miles on them.
Look around at heavy trailers going down the road, almost all of them have a dodge in front of them. All of the diesel pickup trucks have problems, you just have to choose which ones you want to deal with. I have a friend with an 07 duramax that has had I think 4 complete front end replacements, 2 of which were under warranty. You don't hear as much about the problems with the duramax because there just aren't as many on the road as the dodge or ford.
If you plan on towing heavy loads, go cummins. I pulled the same trailer back to back with my dodge and a friend's gm, unloaded the GM was way quicker and rode better but once that trailer was on it was no contest the other direction.
I had a 24v 5speed from 210k-320k
Never had trackbar issue, but stock tires only, and had a luke's link in one end when I bought it.
did tierod and draglink, 2 vp44's (did fass on the 2nd one)
no dash cracks at all. bought a 2000, with 190k, no cracks, and seen another 01 with 1 very small crack
had a touch of rust at inside bottom edge of door, barely starting, no bubbling
headlights are horrible. Aftermarket housings, and wiring harness did them to decent
intake gasket does like to go on the back edge.
Never had issue with intercooler boots on the 98.5 or the 2000 donor, but they did sell quick
overfill the 5600 by a qt and the bearing in question is sitting in oil. Rebuild is $, 2000-2500, and rebuild kits do fluctuate in availability. Even when parts have not been available, Ive been able to find rebuilt transmisssions in stock. Dont tow/drive under 1500/1600 in 6th however, can break 6th. Same with 4500's, helps get 5th to fall off (did that twice on my 98.5)
Some 53's have cracked for sure. Many are doing fine. I know there are 53's that regularly tow with over 300, and at least one over 1mil, and some that are pulling trucks.
My thought, at 21k for that, Id laugh in their face. I dont care if its got 6 miles, its not worth that. More like 15-18k. Spend that much get a 3rd gen 03-05 or 07. 05 was split from 5600 to g56. More complicated trucks, but closer to a real backseat. The front shocks are too soft on the 3rd gens, otherwise they seem to be pretty decent. AAM axles vs the older having d60/d80. Other than being a lot more electronic, and the 03+ are better in almost every regard.
For comparison, I sold my 98.5 for 9500 a year ago, took 2 weeks to sell, fist person who looked at it, bought it. Condition was like a 100k truck, small rip in the seat, that was it.
I have bought a truck from country auto and they are good to deal with. I called them from another dealer that had a similar truck gave them the option to beat the other price, and they did by $2000. I also had to take they truck in for repair ( can't remember what exactly) they paid for the repair and have me a loaner truck at no cost so I could still work.
They have been great to talk to so far. I'm considering trading my Jeep in on the truck. They are giving me more than what I bought my Jeep for brand new two years ago (due to the aftermarket parts). But I'm at $500 short on a straight trade. So maybe overpaying on the truck a bit is being compensated by a more than fair trade value on my Jeep. Thoughts?
That's 04-06 5.9 HO price territory.
FWIW, my 04.5 has been trouble free for 45K miles heavy towing. Yes, only 45K. :-)
No, I won't sell it for that or any amount.
I've been looking online dealer inventory and from what I've seen from dealers that only do diesel trucks is 02's with 100k and up going for 18-20k. These are clearly not work trucks and they look as clean as the one I'm looking at. Are all of these dealers that crazy? Based on those numbers I'd say at 21k I'm not too bad on this truck. I really want get into as clean of a truck as possible. Mine will do light duty for a while until one day when it will pull my next Jeep around.
If you do buy from country truck you won't go wrong I bought my duramax from mike up there honest guy had some issues and he fixed no questions asked with a loaner. You may want to check out the 06 and new duramax much nicer ride and crap ton of power. I rode in my brother in laws 09 cummins to craig from ft Collins and my ass was hurting. Think twice before you buy a dodge check the gmc/chevy's.
We should also keep in mind too that this a dealer after all. Their prices will always be higher than what I would buy a truck from a private party. I like the body style of the second gen much more than the third.
Here is an example I just found.
Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins $15000
http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/4146081526.html
205k, auto, and needs paint work. Now I'm even more unsure of what to do dammit!
I agree that it is high, I bought a 2004 Dodge CTD 140k miles for $18k from a dealer but I paid cash no trade less then a year ago, the guy fell all over himself trying to get me to trade my 2000 F350 7.3L PSD for the dodge but that wasn't happening, my PSD is my toy, my 2006 Dodge CTD is my daily driver, the 2004 Dodge CTD is my Daughters at CSU.
I think you have the right intentions in mind but be patient, be aware of those that are bringing in trucks from OK and TX, CO pays great money for used Diesels, think about it, guys are bringing in 5.9L Dodge CTD's from other states, only one reason that will happen. Be careful and try not to negotiate with your heart, if you have to go through a dealer you can do far worse then Country though I have never heard a bad thing about them and trust me those who have had Diesels for a long time know who to stay away from.
No wax = no maintenance.Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Giv
I appreciate the help guys. I think I'm okay with paying the high end on pricing for this truck considering what I'm getting on trade and for a truck that looks nearly new. I'm willing to take the risk on these second gens considering how many of them I see out running around. Hopefully it's not a bad apple!
Not true at all. My '03 runs like a raped ape with 220k miles. Its very well mechanically maintained....just didn't care to wax her:DQuote:
Originally Posted by brutal
It is an auto but about the same price. This is the place I bought my truck for the business from. Easy transaction.
http://www.centurytrucks.com/Used/35...px?Dealer-1487
And 2WDQuote:
Originally Posted by tmleadr03
Minor details...Quote:
Originally Posted by opie011
Here, higher mileage but 4x4.
http://www.centurytrucks.com/Used/_0...px?Dealer-1487
Quote:
Originally Posted by tmleadr03
And a dpf... Which pay my bills currently
Modern diesels are quickly losing their appeal to me I have to be honest. But people thing cummins holds its value like they think Toyota does. Brand new is MSRP then it drops about 5 grand and stays there no matter what the miles or condition...Quote:
Originally Posted by DFBrews
The common rail is magical but all the epa regs with scr and dpf kill it. Depending on what side of the repair you are on they are lucrativeQuote:
Originally Posted by tmleadr03
In the dodge you are paying for the motor... Could have bought a 07.5 in pristine condition with a spun main for 5k until I priced out a long block. Yuck.
cummins are way overpriced in co i would look to other states
been looking for an older 12v with a nv4500 for a swap and havnt to been able to find anything under 4k in wy simaler trucks are going for 2k
Well dudes I was able to negotiate the cummins down to almost 20k. I think that's something I can live with. I'm going to look at it tomorrow and then make a final decision about picking it up. Then comes the mods! Thanks for all the help.