Running an older style external voltage regulator for my alternator. Since it switches on and off, the lights, dash and headlights have a kind of pulse to them. anyone know how to smooth this on/off out? My google-fu is failing me today
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Running an older style external voltage regulator for my alternator. Since it switches on and off, the lights, dash and headlights have a kind of pulse to them. anyone know how to smooth this on/off out? My google-fu is failing me today
It's not like you need to filter out a pulse so you can't build a capacitive filter circuit. The voltage is actually going up and down, typically from 12v while not charging to 14v while charging.
How often is it switching?
Every second or so. Definately not cycling 12v/14v.Quote:
Originally Posted by LariatBob
Is it a converted 6v system? Some 6v components can cause issues
I'd leave it alone. People will probably think you are some sort of emergency vehicle and get out of your way. [Coffee]
Unless the flickering dash lights will cause some sort of epileptic seizure or something.Quote:
Originally Posted by ray1970
Nope, everything is 12vQuote:
Originally Posted by Wulf202
Concerned the cycling may eventually piss off ecm and other parts. Its also a bit annoying, and I could see it being very aggravating on a long trip at night. The headlights flickering is not enough to notice when in front of the truck, just when in, and dash lights an headlights are doing it. Especially hearing the engine sounding like very slight surging at idle. Take off connections for the regulator, and surging is gone.Quote:
Originally Posted by ray1970
A capacitor won't fix this?
Thats what i was thinking. One of the ones they use for sub amps. 1 farad or so.Quote:
Originally Posted by Irving
One of my old trucks does this. Converted from an external regulator to an internal (Delco 10si) type alternator. Mine had the tick before and after. The headlights were not effected but the dashlights would dim a little and the volt meter would "tick".
Is the power to the headlights running from the battery, through the dash, to the switch and then to the headlights? Installing a "bright light kit" for the headlights might fix their pulsing. This bypasses a lot of wiring and the lights can be powered directly from the battery.
Never figured out the cause and called it the truck's heartbeat.
I had this problem with my Mustang. Turns out the newer headlights I installed were drawing too many amps. And it was causing the breaker in the headlights to switch on and off. I installed a relay switch and powered it straight from the battery and the former switch turns on said relay instead. Problem solved. I hope this helps.
Conversion, if possible is the best. Had a similar setup on my old jeepster, replaced with 10si, no problems anymore.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ah Pook
When this used to happen on older trucks (70-83) vintage it was typically indicative of an alternator on the way out.
Electronic or mechanical regulator?
Mechanical.Quote:
Originally Posted by BPTactical
Starting to look for an electronic one, see if that would make things smooth. Never had an alternator fail in this way, but Ive never run an externally regulated one either.
The mechanical ones were notorious for voltage fluctuations.Quote:
Originally Posted by brianakell
Isn't that why a "dummy light" is a good idea? I added one to my Suzuki samurai when I converted to a gm alt.Quote:
Originally Posted by BPTactical
How about you tell us what kinda of vehicle this is ? Give us a little better idea if this a common issue for the given vehicle or the alternator or reg.
What fun is that? Let's just keep guessing... [LOL]Quote:
Originally Posted by 2XS
Ok, but its not going to help...Quote:
Originally Posted by Ah Pook
f350 superduty with a 24v cummins swapped in. Cummins in a dodge is externally regulated by the PCM, which is not used in swaps, since it can't be, hence the external regulator. [Coffee]
Well there it is-every body knows that Dodge and Ford don't get along..It's like cats and dogs,always fighting!![LOL]Quote:
Originally Posted by brianakell
Get a different Alternator. Why can't the PCM be swapped? I would check the wiring for fried connections and then try a new regulator. It can be something simple as that.
Checked all the wiring, verified with ohm meter. But yes, looking at swapping to a different regulator, of different style.Quote:
Originally Posted by DOC
PCM is not swappable without swapping in everything it wants to be happy. It was the ABS module, speed sensors, gauge cluster. Possibly even airbags. Looked at swapping it in, and its mad enough it wont allow the engine to start. Unplug PCM, fires right up, so that's how it was wired.