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I got a 6 YO water heater that pools water on top of the unit. Not enough to be a huge issue but it's constantly wet. Lots of dried up calcium on top too. Any chance this is condensation? I checked the pipes on top and they are all tight. I can't pinpoint where it's coming from. Thoughts? Anyone here a plumber that wants a little side work?
On top of the unit sounds like the pressure valve. Pics would help. Is the valve piped off to the side and bottom of the heater? When was the last time you pulled the pressure valve? They can crust over. Last time you changed the anode? I've seen leaking from the top of the anode plug before.
I have about 50 like that back in the shop. [panic]
The connections on the top of the tank, adjacent to the flue or the anode, are the most likely leak sources. The leak rate will increase over time.
Time for a new water heater most likely.
You can buy 2 brass 3/4" x 2" nipples. Shut the water off, open the hot water side of sink to relieve pressure, back the flex connector off and try to break the nipple loose. Teflon tape and true blue the nipple going into the tank(only) and repeat the other side. Before warned, you might break that nipple off flush with the tank, if that's the case time for a new tank. Tank from homedepot is 350-400 bucks plus a permit from your local jurisdiction. Good luck.
While we are on this subject, Is there any regular maintenance that a homeowner can do themselves to extend the life of a water heater?
Most manuals say to operate the T&P valve and check the anode annually. That is good advice, if you do it annually. If your WH is 4 or more years old, don't start.
The T&P valve can build up deposits and a flush is not a bad thing.
Generally, turn the WH off, close the supply valve, hook a hose up to the drain valve, let about 4 or 5 gallons drain out. If it is rusty and or chunky, you have some issues. Turn the supply valve back on an flush out another 4 or 5 gallons. Repeat until clear. IF you can get to the anode, with a socket, checking it annually is not a bad idea. Of course, when the sacrificial material is about 70% consumed, you should replace it. Careful with the Teflon folks. Isolate the tank from the anode and it is worthless. I have seen a lot of plumbers do this to try and stop a small leak...they make the tank fail sooner.
Water heaters these days are almost consumables, unless you get a better quality than consumer grade. In most cases, the difference between a 6 year and a 10 year warranty water heater is the label...same assembly, just paying more for a longer warranty on the same equipment. The stainless braided flex hoses with the "Santoprene" tubes are a higher potential for leaks. Copper is better, stainless tube is better. Especially on the hot side.
If I was buying Electric, I would look at the Rudd with the polymer tanks. If gas/propane, the $1000+ high efficiency units might be a good consideration if you are close to the sidewall of the house and can run the direct vent out the side. They have a much thicker tank, 2 anodes and will cut your water heating bill in half.
There is some good info here: http://www.disastersafety.org/studie...failure-risks/ Analysis of 700 WH leaks. I've probably done close to 1500 at this point...
If you have a water heater with a brass drain valve then occasional draining will help keep the sediment out. Shut the water off open he hot water side of a sink and drain. Never open the t and p valve because they don't always seal closed. If you have a state, kenmore, Sears, whirlpool tank keep area around the tank clean and free of dirt and debris. I recommend using compressed air to blow our from underneath those tanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by rbeau30
Okay so my house was built in '06 I just bought it, so don't bother with the anode?Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkCO
I'll definately start draining some water every few months or so, that sounds like a good way to determine if some issues are starting. I am thinking about getting a bigger one anyways when/if this one fails, since ther are 6 of us in the house and 3 bathrooms.
Sorry to take piggy-back on the thread but perhaps would help another reader out. when they search for water heater stuff.
6+ year old...I would not mess with the anode nor the T&P at this point. Check it once a month, when you see rust starting to appear around the bottom pan of the skin, time to change it out.
If you have a WH with a plastic drain, I would pull it, let the water drain out, replace with a brass one. While it is out, rent a scope from HomeDespot and look at the anode through the open port.
Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkCO
Average life of a water heater in the Denver metro area is 12-15 years. FYI.
I might agree that the average of water heaters made before about 2000 was 12-15 years. Those made after have been utilizing more recycled steel and so are therefore more susceptible to corrosion. Anode rod consumption rates have increased in the last decade as well due to many factors. Mid-grade water heaters are probably in the 9 to 10 year range in CO now.Quote:
Originally Posted by hghclsswhitetrsh