Deck: need ideas/help

I am thinking of putting a deck on the back of the house and am looking for some input. I will be doing it myself (no decking experience) but will have several family members who know what they are doing help me out!

right now I have a 10x10 slab off the back of the house. It is poured right next to the foundation. On top of that right at the sliding glass door is a small 3x3 roughly slab poured as a step. It is 7" tall. I have 6" from the top of that to the bottom of the door.

I only want the deck to go out the 10' away from the house. Along the house I have an addition 6' to the south and 8'4" to the edge of the house to the north.

i don't have to go to the south and would be happy with a deck that is 18'4"x10'. Then I wouldnt have to move as many sprinklers and makes my life a little easier.

So, I'm looking for ideas and insight as to what the best decking material is, what kind of cost I am looking at, if I need to pour more cement for the framework or another slab.

The synthetic stuff will last forever but it's spendy. My deck is 10'x16' and to do it with the synthetic was going to run me about $3,000. And that was years ago. Cedar or redwood are your next best options. Probably half that cost. I did mine with pine and treat it every year. Cost me about $400.

Yeah I was just looking at Home Depot, one piece 16' long 5 1/2" wide was $36....wtf! so I would be looking at $800 in just the top wood (no framework) for a 10x16. This is the veranda composite from Home Depot. Trex is more expensive than that.

so I assume $1000 in just top wood. What do I need for supports/frame? Is that regular wood or is that composite stuff as well?

This is not at all helpful. Enjoy. Kiwi deck sealant. http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=hkmeoYKYctw

There are some good pointers in this one though. http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=nz82fjXqFQ4

Go with Trex/Synthetic for the top.. Buy once, cry once.. Still use good wood for the framing and the runners. I put a trex deck on 10 years ago - still looks brand new.

Those are pretty funny!

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Originally Posted by asmo

Go with Trex/Synthetic for the top.. Buy once, cry once.. Still use good wood for the framing and the runners. I put a trex deck on 10 years ago - still looks brand new.

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That is definitely the way I am going. I am leaning toward the Veranda decking from Home Depot. A good bit cheaper than trex and a cool mounting system so no screws into the composite. I like the no maintenance aspect. I don't want to have to stain and seal and all that crap.

Just found this: anybody use this stuff or have an opinion on it?
http://www.lowes.com/pd_403875-46086...7C1&facetInfo=

On my new house I got Moisture Shield decking, it's awesome but not cheap.

Looks like the stuff from lowes would be under $800 for the top material for a 10x20. What kind of framing wood do you guys recommend?

There's a deck supply store over in commerce city. West of Quebec on 74th(???). They sell to the public and help design if you need it. Good prices, my buddy who built decks for awhile bought from there.

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Originally Posted by hghclsswhitetrsh

There's a deck supply store over in commerce city. West of Quebec on 74th(???). They sell to the public and help design if you need it. Good prices, my buddy who built decks for awhile bought from there.

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Just found them and took down their info. I'll call them tomorrow and see what they offer

Here is what I put on the back of my rental.Attachment 43329
10x30

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Originally Posted by sniper7

Looks like the stuff from lowes would be under $800 for the top material for a 10x20. What kind of framing wood do you guys recommend?

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Framing needs to be treated and don't forget your permit[rules][sheepshagger]

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Originally Posted by IceAxe

Here is what I put on the back of my rental.Attachment 43329
10x30

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Looks really nice. How far about did you do your supports/frame. I have head the composite flexes do I need to space them closer

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Originally Posted by jslo

Framing needs to be treated and don't forget your permit[rules][sheepshagger]

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Permit...ha! I'll give me a permit.

I know some people like composites. Look at the trex class action lawsuit. Plus it gets HOT in the sun. I put it in the same class a vinyl siding. If you go looking around, there are some semi exotics that only need oiling every few years. Wood just looks pretty too.

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Originally Posted by ben4372

I know some people like composites. Look at the trex class action lawsuit. Plus it gets HOT in the sun. I put it in the same class a vinyl siding. If you go looking around, there are some semi exotics that only need oiling every few years. Wood just looks pretty too.

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I agree, but honestly when it comes to upkeep I am pretty lazy and don't want to buy stain/sealant and deal with wood. I'm stuck on composite, now it's just a matter of which one and how to frame it.

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Originally Posted by jslo

Framing needs to be treated and don't forget your permit[rules][sheepshagger]

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Haha! Awesome news, Adams county doesn't require a permit for decks 30" of less above ground level. So I'm good to go

If you want to build it to code you'll want to ledger the house side with 2x8 treated minimum (2×10 better) lagged to rim and flashed. 3 posts set outside pad, on post bases, on 36" deep caisons. Double 2×8 (2×10) beam sitting on 4×4 posts. 2×8 (2×10) treated joist between ledger and beam. Now you can deck it. Typically joist spacing is 16" for 2× decking material. 3/4 and 4/4 composites sometimes go down to 12" spacing.because it can be kind of bouncy. Good luck

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Originally Posted by sniper7

Looks like the stuff from lowes would be under $800 for the top material for a 10x20. What kind of framing wood do you guys recommend?

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most counties require pressure treated lumber for the subframe,

your deck sounds like it will be short so it should be fairly stable, running the decking at an angle allowing you to tie the ledger to the rim joist will make for a much stronger deck, this is an often overlooked item on taller decks, al those deck that sway back and forth could be avoided.

railing are required to be no more than 4 inches apart, spacing them with a 2x4 will eliminate any question as to their proper spacing, notch your posts and through bolt the ledger and or beams. for a 10 foot wide deck i would use 2x12 joists, unless you are planning a beam at about 8 foot. on a really short deck a properly mounted rim joist could be sufficient.

pm me if you have a more questions, i have built many decks for past clients. the photos are of the deck and stairs my son and i built on our house last year, 10 off the ground at the end, front walkway is 58 feet long, the addition on the end is 20x21
Attachment 43339Attachment 43341Attachment 43343Attachment 43347Attachment 43349


the depth of your concrete pier is actually dependent on altitude, 36 inches is a good rule of thumb, but there are areas depending on your location where county code is only 12 inches.

ledger must be lagged, must use flashing, use cross blocks at about 6 feet out, if you are using a beam 24 inches should be your longest overhang.

Wow, awesome information and some terms I don't know! I'll get some research done today. Any idea what and estimate cost would be on the framing materials?

also, as far as railing, this will be pretty low to the ground so my plan was to go no rails, any thoughts on this or things I would need to do different to accomplish that?

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Originally Posted by sniper7

Wow, awesome information and some terms I don't know! I'll get some research done today. Any idea what and estimate cost would be on the framing materials?

also, as far as railing, this will be pretty low to the ground so my plan was to go no rails, any thoughts on this or things I would need to do different to accomplish that?

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its been a little while since i did this for a living so for insurance purposes check with your building dept. before skipping your handrails.

General rule of thumb used to be that anything less than 30 inches above grade did not need railings, 120 sf or less did not require a permit.

your building department should be able to tell you your frost line requirements for your piers,

JMO but your deck will look much more finished with rails, regardless of the height. also will keep the drunk buddy from hurting himself on fourth of July and such.

Also home depot's website used to have a deck designing section and project estimator online.

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Originally Posted by hghclsswhitetrsh

There's a deck supply store over in commerce city. West of Quebec on 74th(???). They sell to the public and help design if you need it. Good prices, my buddy who built decks for awhile bought from there.

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This place is great! They have a lot to chose from and sometimes have deals on overstock stuff. Very helpful people and competitive prices.

just remember 3, 4, 5 and you'll be good to go!
Good luck...

that works great as long as all the boards involved are straight

We went with a material call Trex Transcend, which is basically traditional trex wrapped in a fade-free urethane jacket. It was spendy, but after more than 6 years it still looks like the day we installed it.

Lowes will be stocking the red tinted pressure treat soon, depot already is.

Rockhound, great looking deck, and you are correct about the railing and insurance issue. Want stories about siblings and friends suing each other over such things? I have them.

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Originally Posted by Irving

Rockhound, great looking deck, and you are correct about the railing and insurance issue. Want stories about siblings and friends suing each other over such things? I have them.

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thanks, I have built some pretty cool ones over the years. it was a nice father son project.

Went to the ducking superstore today and got some good insight and information. They can't even come close to the choice deck composite price at lowes right now though. So I think I'll get that stuff ordered since it is on sale then figure out the rest. Called the callbeforeyoudig people and they are coming out on Monday to check everything.

I've attached a few pictures of where it is going. Any more insight would be great

JMO, but looking at those photos, I'd want it to run the full length of the house, and come up to almost the bottom of the patio door. That would give you tons of deck space, and you could walk straight out from the house without a step down.

You could also add one of those roll-out awnings over part of the deck to provide shade. Our house has one of those on our south-facing patio, and it's awesome on hot sunny days. It was on the house when we bought it, and we consider it a valuable extra feature.

I like the idea, but dont want to pay that much or take up that much of our already small yard. and I can't cover up my emergency egress and do not want to build another cover for it over the deck, just adds too much to this project.

anybody have a lowes coupon code?

The only issue I see is the stoop. If it is staying (not being torn out) the proper way to frame around it is:
Double up the joists on either side
Hang a double header off them just outside the stoop
Rip 2× joist to clear stoop (sounds like these are only going to be about 4.5" to 5" joists. I'd probably add extra over the stoop, like 12" centers)
Ledger over stoop will need to be ripped down also

That was pretty much my plan, other than I didn't think of the double header outside the stoop but that sounds like a good plan.

now to decide if I can fit 2x8 or use 2x6 for joists. The stoop is 7" tall. And I only have 6" from top of stoop to bottom of door frame.

Question on railing with these composite decks. The choice deck that lowes offers I can't find the composite railing pieces. Only trex stuff around. Is it acceptable to use wood? They had wood railing ore built for a fair price and my wife wants a two tone anyways so I could paint the rails white.

Also, if I go with no railing for now, is it a pain to add later if I change my mind?

Most decks the railing is added after. 4×4"s are notch and then lagged or through bolted to rim. I like the look of a white rail with a colored deck. At least my wife says I do.

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Originally Posted by sniper7

Looks really nice. How far about did you do your supports/frame. I have head the composite flexes do I need to space them closer

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I ran mine 12" on center as I struggled on whether I would run it diagonal but I think 16" will work fine and will be in code. I believe it calls for conventional spacing.