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I am looking at buying a truck in the nearfuture and am thinking about a private sale (Craigslist, etc). How do you handle a private party autopurchase with only a minimal chance of being screwed? Interested in transfer of title, receipt offunds and all that. I haven’t bought aprivate sale vehicle in over 20 years so just want to get a refresher on the currentbest practices. Hopefully I will be onthe sell side with a 2001 F-150 4x4 soon as well.
Husker95
Cash is king for getting a good deal.
Know the book value PLUS what they are selling for in your area. If you need an emissions test, can it pass. For $$X pay a trusted mechanic to give it a once over. The money invested up front could mean money saved down the road. Regarding carfax, unless an issue was reported, it will not show up on a CF report.
IF the seller say he/she does all their own work, have them show you the receipts for parts purchased. Oil changed at a jiffyoilcanrapid shop. Those places have records of their service work.
IMO, If there are no receipts, there was no work performed.
BTW: it's not a private purchase, it's a vehicle you purchased form one other than a dealer. Or as we say, i got it from the guy down the block ;)
My brother just got a car through Craigslist. If you are going to be financing it, you will need to "Close" at your bank with the current owner. This will allow the bank to get the title instead of you since they will be carrying the loan. I think if you finance a vehicle that is being financed by the sell it turns in to a clusterfuck.
If you are not financing, bring a bill of sale and make sure he signs in the right spot for the title. I traded a vehicle to ChunkyMonkey and the title had been signed in the wrong spot and it was a pain in the ass. Not because it was hard to do, but because it took up so much of both of our time.
Good Luck.
if you are meeting a craigslist seller go woth someone. esp if you have cash in hand.
i have done many deals off craigslist, but you never know who you are dealing with,
i would not look at anything that does not have a current emmissions that can be used to transfer title, if they have a clean car that is not falling apart or that they are not afraid won't pass emissions they will have the proff in hand.
ID the seller and make sure their name matches whay is on the title. If they want to explain why the names are different, run!
Check to see if vehicle is reported stolen- https://www.colorado.gov/apps/dps/mvvs/public/entry.jsf
Have a trusted mechanic give it a once over.
If worried about it passing emissions give the seller $25 and tell him a passing emissions test will be required as part of the sale.
Pretty much nails it. If you have the chance, bring a mechanic or set up an appointment to have it looked over. Most shops can do a once over for half of their hourly rate. Be courteous of the sellers time though as this can be a bit of a hassle for both parties. I worked at a mechanics shop and you would be amazed some of the vehicles that the seller stated "nothing is wrong with it" and what can be found. Not saying all sellers are this way because some people assume because it runs and drives, nothing is wrong with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by kidicarus13
If the vehicle is registered and has current plates it passed emissions recently (where required) but be careful as buying from a private party does not mean the seller has to provide you a vehicle that passes emissions. Private car sales in Colorado are AS IS. Once you had them the money and they hand you a signed title it's yours. Get a bill of sale also. Match the vin number on the title with the one that is on the vehicle.
All good advice. Also, El Paso county requires a certain bill of sale, so I would check your county's website and make sure you get the right one if necessary.
Great advice guys - thanks. I am pre-approved through my CU soessentially will be a cash buyer. If theseller is still financing the vehicle, do I just insist on going with them tothe bank/lender that is holding the title so I pay the bank, take the titlein-hand and the seller takes difference between the note and what I ampaying? Do any of you leave thetransaction with the bill of sale and wait for lender to send the title or isthat bad juju? The last time I did thiswas in 1991 and I waited about 60 days to get the title - was a nightmare.
I have done it both ways. It is so much easier to go with the buyer to the bank to get the title. I purchased a motorcycle that still had a lien on it and it took about 45-60 days before I saw the title. I look back on it and I am glad it worked out but you cannot trust anyone to give you the title. I would never purchase a vehicle without knowing 100% where the title is.Quote:
Originally Posted by Husker95
I will NOT make a private car purchase unless the seller agrees to have the car checked, BEFORE the sale, by my mechanic, whom I'll give the heads-up that it's a potential purchase. This has saved me grief through the discovery of hidden problems. I've negotiated lower price, and I've also walked away, as a result of this. I didn't do it once, when I was young, and got screwed.
If you are going to finance the car why not go to a reputable dealer, the car will be checked, many of them have a 3-5 day satisfaction clause now, bring the car back if you dont like it, they will make sure it passes emissions,
i have bought many both ways, the truck i replaced my diesel with was at phil long, was great deal, way cheaper than private sales on this particular truck it is a very rare package, they repaired a couple items for free cause they were safety items, gave me two years free oil changes even on a used car, 3 days to return it if i did not like the deal.
It is a wise decision and I am sure you have sellers decline doing so. I recently sold my cummins and a potential buyer wanted all kinds of tests done (leak down, scan, alignment check, etc) to make sure he was not buying a lemon. I was not willing to let "his mechanic" tear down my truck to check things that it did not need. I had so much interest in the truck that I declined his offer and told him if it did not sell by the weekend I would call him and we could arrange that. It sold the next day.Quote:
Originally Posted by vim
It was not worth it to me to miss half a day of work to sell my truck. On top of all this, the guy wanted me to pay for a second emissions test so that he could see it would pass. He even went as far as telling me it was illegal to sell a vehicle in Colorado that does not pass emissions and that I am 100% reliable if it doesn't. He wanted a BOS that stated if he found anything wrong with it he could bring it back and get all his money back, no questions asked. It was a 14 year old truck with 194k on it. At this point I declined his cash offer and told him if I did not sell it within a couple of weeks I would call him.
Getting a little off topic but this is some of the stuff you deal with private parties. Sometimes you just get plain weirdo's. I was not hiding anything with my truck but I wasn't willing to miss a half day or full days worth of work to get an emissions test and take it to his mechanic so he could molest the sh*t out of it and they say it wasn't what he was looking for. Just be considerate of others people's time and be polite. Good deals can be had if you look. What kind of vehicle are you looking for?
As the buyer, you'll pay for the inspection--do it. but, not being a loon is going to put you ahead of half the buyers out there. when you've got something listed in CL you'd be surprised at the level of kooky offers you'll get, sob stories, the works. someone that appears to be a run-of-the-mill buyer is almost a rarity.
What are you looking to spend? I'm wanting to rid myself of my 04 f150. Only 81k on it. Barely gets driven... I just have no need for a truck anymore want something a little smaller.
Sent by a free-range electronic weasel, with no sense of personal space.
You are not allowed to sell a car in CO that doesn't pass emissions.
Get it inspected at a shop. Seriously post purchase inspections will make a grown man cry.
Do you have a source for this? The reason I ask is because my last buyer was trying to get me to pay for a second emissions test even though it was done less than 6 months ago. The person that actually bought it did not live in a emissions regulated area. Now when he goes to sell it does and the new buyer lives in an emissions regulated how is he supposed to know if it passes or not?Quote:
Originally Posted by tmleadr03
Found this while searching around:
https://www.ar-15.co/threads/41550-I...Colorado/page2
Title! Make sure this is 100% correct, and make sure everything is spelled exactly as it appears on the title. If there are any differences in first, middle, last; then expect hell in getting it resolved.Quote:
Originally Posted by Husker95
The most important thing is the transfer of title when a lien is involved. This needs to be coordinated by the banks, which they will do. I wouldn't make a transaction with the promise their bank will get the title to you. If you financed through your bank, have them request the title from their bank. I coordinated three sells through my bank...not a big deal.
If there is no lien involved, expect a cash deal. I don't particularly enjoy carrying thousands in cash so if the deal is big, I ask to meet at my bank where the seller can be funded.
I can generally tell what is good and not good with a vehicle upon my own inspection. If not, get a general inspection and your expectation should be relative to what you are buying. In other words, expect wear in accordance with years and mileage. If it is a late model under five years, then it should be in perfect order. If you are buying a 10-15 year old truck, be reasonable. I never asked for an emissions test, but I always provide one when I am the seller; it is a great selling point.
Finally, I have never been screwed in a private sale. If it doesn't feel right, walk; seriously, observe, and profile the owner and determine if you want them driving your car. Find out if they are a long time owner or if they are flipping it. Question short duration owners and determine why they are flipping the car. I have been screwed buying from a dealer and that is my expectation every time I walk on their lot.
I will not purchase a car from a private seller that does not have real license plates on it. I've been trolling craigslist a lot lately and I've noticed a ton of cars that have temp tags or no plates which makes me wonder why? With the floods we had last year, I'm very suspicious of any used car right now. Also, besides checking the names on the title, pay attention to the dates and this is where carfax comes in handy with the title search. If there is a long time span from when the vehicle was titled and then registered, that should be a red flag for something has happened to the car and the owner has spent the time jerryrigging it enough to get a sucker to buy it. Happened to my Uncle with a bearing in the engine of his Camry.
Also, don't be surprised when you go to title and register it and have to pay sales tax on a private party purchase. Total rip off B.S. move by the gov so it's almost worth buying used from a stealership. Good luck.
I'm too lazy to deal with private party sales. I may end up paying a bit more but I'll buy a used one from a local dealer. They typically check the vehicles out before they hit the lot and fix the small stuff. They have a reputation to uphold so they typically aren't going to pass a total hunk of shit off on someone. Plus, if you do have issues, it is typically way easier to get them resolved with a large, reputable dealership who doesn't want the bad publicity than it is with Joe Blow or Jose Cuervo or whoever.
I'm sure most of you will disagree with my logic. My last car lot purchase lasted me twelve years with pretty much zero issues. (I think I did have to put a starter on it about three years after I bought it.) I'm hoping to have similar luck with my latest used vehicle purchase as well. Looking good so far.
Also make sure it is correct AFTER the DMV hands you a new one. When I was handed my new title on the TA the vin was wrong. Having had it happen 30 years ago makes me check everything before I leave the window. When I pointed it out the gal went "WHAT?" she looked and told me I was very lucky because most never look at them and getting it changed after you walk out the door IE 5 years later when you try and sell it......Quote:
Title! Make sure this is 100% correct, and make sure everything is spelled exactly as it appears on the title. If there are any differences in first, middle, last; then expect hell in getting it resolved.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthPaw
from air care colorado:
Usedvehicles that are for sale are required to have a new emissions test, even if the current inspection report still has time on it. However, there is an EXCEPTION to this rule:
- If a newer used vehicle is sold and there are 365 days or more left on the original 4-year exemption, the vehicle does not require a new test at the time of sale.
It is the seller's responsibility to obtain the test. This is a consumer protection for the buyer. The seller must provide the emissions test paperwork to the buyer for vehicle registration purposes. The buyer must use this paperwork to register the vehicle within one year. A vehicle dealer may offer customers a voucher enabling the buyer to obtain a test for free. The customer has the right to refuse this arrangement.
If you purchased a vehicle from a dealer, used a dealer voucher to obtain a test, and the vehicle failed the test, access our Dealer Information.
Details on your truck please,Quote:
Originally Posted by Monky
engine, short or long box, crew cab, color, ect
thanks
Never go to look at a vehicle after dark, you miss something and, bring a good flashlight even in daylight. Don't be afraid to crawl around underneath to look for issues with brakes, fuel lines, and any other areas that me be leaking. Take someone with you when you go, another set of eyes is always good. Leave the cash in the car until you are ready to make a purchase. There is a lot of good advice here, use it.
Off topic, but I also look at the local eBay listings to purchase the vehicle. Much safer as a buyer.
You can go to their place, and inspect it with your mechanics, prior to buying/bidding if local.
eBay's VPP
http://pages.ebay.com/ebaymotors/buy...ion/index.html
Thanks guys. I am familiar with the basics - my mechanic has agreed to do a check on the veh and have a friend to go with me for the purchase. Its the paperwork and transfer of title that give me the chills.
Thanks to all who asked about my truck and what i am looking for. Here are both ends of my pending transactions:
Sell: 2001 4.6l Triton V8 XLT package with 160k miles. Been a great truck for me but the extended cab it getting too small for the boy and mamma has said she aint riding back there. I have been very good about maintenance and can show proof. Exterior and interior are in very good shape but showing the wear of a 13 year old truck. Also, i have all the best classic SoCo classic rock stations on the presets.
Want to Buy: 2011-2014 Dodge Ram or F150 Crew Cab, 4x4 with the V8 engine. I have driven the 6 Cyl Ecoboost and am impressed but the turbos still scare me in terms of long-term maintenance. I dont want to go crazy but need to get a high-enouth trim package to keep mamma happy (and yeah, i like heated seats too). I think this translates to a Dodge Sport or F-150 Lariat/FX4. This truck will be used a little as a med-haul driver going to see G-pa/G-ma, tow an light, 18 ft boat to 11-mile and other locations and do the small-amount of hunting that the boy and i do.
Husker
Buying that new of a vehicle you should be pretty set. I am still up in the air about the Eco-boost motors my self. Anything with a turbo can be very expensive to fix when they break. Good luck with your search and post some pictures on what you get!Quote:
Originally Posted by Husker95
Husker95> Since you are looking for a newer truck, it will probably make sense to buy from a dealer. Work with some bigger dealerships that have a decent monthly turnover of their inventory and if they don't have what you are looking for on the lot, tell the sales manager what you want and they will find it for you.
With a truck that new the chances of finding a seller that owns the truck outright will be slim. Most of the sellers of that new of a vehicle will still owe money on it, so their bank will have the title, and they will probably be significantly upside down on what they owe verses the resale value of the truck. There are not many sellers out there that are willing to sell a vehicle and take on a signature loan for the balance of the loan that they are upside down on.
Your best luck would be in selling your current truck yourself as private properly. That will maximize what you will get for your truck. Then work with a reputable dealership to purchase your next truck. You may end up paying a little more for the next truck from a dealership, but there are is a lot more protection built into the sale when buying from a dealer verses a private property seller.
yeah, thats a good point. Over the last 3 months i have also seen a big increase in demand in the used vehicle market. Not sure exactly why but i have a couple theories. End result of that demand is the price of lightly used trucks has went up to close to what you can bargain a new one down to. Kind of incentivizes a new purchase.......Quote:
Originally Posted by CHA-LEE
tmleadr03,Quote:
Originally Posted by tmleadr03
What do you charge for inspection's? ...PM if interested...