In S&W 357's, other than cylinder size (5, 6, 7, or 8 rounds), what are the fundamental differences between the different models:686, 586, 66, 27, 60?
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In S&W 357's, other than cylinder size (5, 6, 7, or 8 rounds), what are the fundamental differences between the different models:686, 586, 66, 27, 60?
S&W Revolvers
This should get you started.
I'll put what I have in 357 info for you. The 60 is a 5 shot "J" frame, the 65, 66 and 19 are 6 shot "K" frames, the 586 and 686 are 6 shot "L" frames and 619 and 620 are 7 shot "L" frames and the 627 is an 8 shot "L" frame, the 27 and 28 are 6 shot "N" frames. Frame sizes are small to large J, K, L, N. In most cases a 6 at the beginning of any model number is usually stainless steel. Now if I'm wrong it would not surprise me, but I believe that is right.
Well they built 357's on all the frame sizes. J, K, L, & N.
6 at the beginning of a model# is a stainless gun.
What size pistol do you want? Do you plan on shooting it alot (you reload)? Do you plan on shooting a bunch of .357's through it or mostly 38's?
If you are shopping for one you can't really go wrong with a 686 (or the 686+ 7 shooter) imo.
586 is a blued square butt while 686 is a stainless round butt. I think 627 is an N frame - simply a stainless model 27 with an 8 shot cylinder. Just like a 625 is stainless model 25.
Oh Robert.......... I'm not up on the designations of all S$W 357 & 38 revolvers. I do know when i see something i like, the money starts getting saved for it. UNless i'm with a fe wguys from the board, LGS hopping. Then Impulse buying rears it's ugly head.
One of the best coffee table books you will ever buy is the Supica & Nahaus (sp) Standard Catalogue of Smith and Wesson. Great reference for all things S&W and you will not watch TV for a week with that sitting out. Even with this book, knowing all the models, revisions, and sub-categories is like memorizing the bible - in ancient Greek.
Several people posted above with pretty much all the basic stuff. All I will add is the dash numbers usually include "upgrades" to each model. Some were improvements to minor design flaws, and some were simply cost saving changes for the company. I've had a few with the internal lock and I just don't like them. Never had a problem with them. I just don't like the extra tiny parts in the design of the lock work.
Thanks for the quick summary, it helps me get my bearîngs.
...then where did my square butt 686 come from? It depends on when your revolver was made. There are an immense number of variations. The frame size is a starting point, but collecting S&W revolvers can make you crazy/poor with the number of variants.Quote:
Originally Posted by Husker95
I'm not sure about the 586 but I'm pretty sure the 686 has been produced with a square butt as well as the round butt.
Mine has the round butt. I think mine is a 686-5. No lock but does have the MIM parts.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...1f603eea84.jpg
Attachment 50253
Square butt 686-2
Well, all of this learning stuff is fun. From a quick google search it appears S&W switched the 686 from a square butt to a round butt somewhere during the -4 production run. Although some claim earlier models with the 2.5" barrel came with the round butt.
Probably explains the square butt on the -2 and the round butt on my -5.
Ok, I just checked Supica and Nahas and my original statement was wrong. The 686 was originally produced on the square butt frame - the same as its blue brother the 586. However, there were many variations produced with a round butt. All 7-shot 686s were produced with a round butt and the square butt was officially deleted in 1996. Production began on your 686-2 in 1987, so it was a square butt. Ray1970 your SB dash 5 was produced between 1997 and 2000 with MIM hammer and trigger and some internal lockwork changes. I have a 586-4 6 inch and its one of the most accurate handguns I own. 586/686 were a great model for S&W.
I love my 686. It's a tack driver. Really wanted a 681 but just couldn't find one at a fair price.
The L frames are a nice size. Beefy enough to hold up to regular .357 use, but not an N frame. ;)
Did someone say L frame? This one was bought new by my dad in July '81. I got it when he passed in '92 and used it to teach both my sons how to shoot a handgun. He had it worked over by a well known 'smith in Arizona (Frank Glenn), has an amazing action, bead blast finish and has held up well over thousands of rounds. I have the original box, all papers, tools and even the original receipt.
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i2...ps85d7a819.jpg
As pointed out S&W has made the .357 available in all the current frame sizes (J. K L and N). These days I prefer to shoot .38s for fun but run a few mags through this one now and then and frequently carry it up in the hills.
Here it is with the elk stags and Tyler T-grip it normally wears:
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i2...psa3dfddd0.jpg
Very nice, Doc45. I'm glad to hear that Frank Glenn does good work, as I was thinking of having him do some work on a 64 of mine next year if finances allow.
What every Smith and Wesson aficionado needs is the Standard Catalog of Smith and Wesson, make sure to get the 3rd edition. Inexpensive and worth every single penny.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Standard-Cat...item25916872e8
http://www.amazon.com/Standard-Catal.../dp/089689293X
There might be a 4th edition in the works.
http://smith-wessonforum.com/lounge/...-w-4th-ed.html
Well I can't speak for how he's doing today as the work on my 686 was done back in '81. I will also say I've had TJ's in Aurora smooth the action on my 629 and it's great as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by DAL357