Hardwood floor repair- C Springs

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12-14-2014, 08:08
muddywings

Hardwood floor repair- C Springs

Coworker has some water damage due to a dishwasher leak. It's being dried out now with home depot rented blower fans but she has some hardwood damage (pretty new floors too).
She moved into the house a few months ago and the floors were put in recently so she actually has the stain of the floors
I've installed hardwood floor before but never done repair work.
Any good recommendations for a hardwood floor guy in the C Springs area that I can pass along?
Also, anybody have a rough WAG on cost? It's in front of the dishwasher/sink area. Probably and area of 2 feet by 6 feet where she has buckling.

Thanks!
12-14-2014, 09:28
eneranch

Second Generation Flooring - Tim (719) 277-7032

Barry Floors - Barry (719) 321-0738
12-14-2014, 11:08
muddywings

Quote:

Originally Posted by eneranch

Second Generation Flooring - Tim (719) 277-7032

Barry Floors - Barry (719) 321-0738

Cool-thanks. I'll probably have her get an estimate.
I went over there to take a look. It's about 25sft. About, 2.5 ft by 10 ft. After looking it up on the internet, really it just comes out to pulling out the bad boards then you are back to standard install with the hard part getting the stain to match. Probably a full Saturday plus stain/dry time. Probably would need the nailer from Home Depot for less than the 4 hour rental and I have a compressor and regular nailer.
Anybody have advice if I were to DIY?
12-14-2014, 11:46
Irving

Why didn't she turn in an insurance claim?

Depending on how badly the boards are cupped, wouldn't you usually just sand and refinish the entire floor? I'm under the impression that is the way to do it correctly.
12-14-2014, 16:11
muddywings

Quote:

Originally Posted by Irving

Why didn't she turn in an insurance claim?

Depending on how badly the boards are cupped, wouldn't you usually just sand and refinish the entire floor? I'm under the impression that is the way to do it correctly.

she says she has a really high deductible. even if it's only $1000, then a. she doesn't have a it, and b. I doubt even if you brought in a pro it would only be a $500-$999 repair. Below the deductible-why bother....
12-14-2014, 16:16
Irving

That's correct if it's below the deductible. Generally, if you can do things without insurance, I recommend that, but it didn't sound like she was going to tackle it herself.
12-14-2014, 18:07
muddywings

Hardwood floor repair- C Springs

Quote:

Originally Posted by Irving

That's correct if it's below the deductible. Generally, if you can do things without insurance, I recommend that, but it didn't sound like she was going to tackle it herself.

I've done hardwood floors myself and have a nailer and a compressor. I would just be a matter of a 4 hour rental with an floor nailer and my guess about $50-100 in hardwood and a Saturday so I told her I could help her out.
I recommended waiting till spring.
Looking at the rest of the floor, it wasn't sanded after it was installed as you can feel slight ridges between all the boards (not where the water damage is) which tells me the installers didn't bring in one of the large push sanders and do a refined sanding. Also looking at the some of the ends (where it butts up against cabinets or walls) it doesn't look the most refined-tells me it was a DIY job in the first place. (anybody correct my logic if I'm off base though). Last it doesn't have a real high gloss so it doesn't have a bunch of clear coat on it (not very glossy). Just the stain and maybe a finish coat.
With that, I think i can plunge cut with my circular saw and knock out the boards easy enough with a small pry bar and a chisel. Then it's just replace with the same type of wood and refinish. My only unknown worry is the subfloor. I did just go over there and pull the fans from the crawl space and the bottom side of the subfloor was pretty dry, just some leak through where the plumbing was going through.
I did say she might want to bring in a pro to do the finish because I suspect there is some real skill with blending the finish withe the prior finish.
Anybody feel free to correct my logic.

Picture:
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...a8fc5f47a1.jpg

ETA: where those wrenches are are the upper corner of the warping. so back towards the cabinet is the square area of the problem.
ETA2: I don't have kids so I have free weekends to do stuff like this LOL
12-14-2014, 18:30
Great-Kazoo

Why are the cabinets not being replaced or are they? You can see water damage on the bottom of the right one. If there's WD on the floor you can bet it's under the cabinets, based on personal experience. Those cabinets shout be pulled, the bottom of the floor ( ceiling if there's a basement) should also be inspected. What you don't see today usually comes back down the road, especially when it comes to water damage.
12-14-2014, 18:58
Irving

I have limited experience with this type of thing, but if I were to tackle this project, I might consider running a dehumidifier in addition to just blowers. At the very least I'd pull the toekick off the cabinets to get air in there to dry it out. If the structure of the cabinet is damaged, like past the toekicks, then I'd pull them if I couldn't cover it with the new toekick. Also, I'd rent a moisture meter and start pulling boards until the meter read acceptable levels in the floor material, and the subfloor. I'd do the plunge cut to preserve the subfloor, and as long as it was structurally sound I'd dry it up and paint it with Kilz or some other moisture barrier. Then I'd re-install new flooring material where I cut, then sand and refinish the ENTIRE floor (even other rooms), so it all looks the same.

Realistically, since I don't have experience in this, I'd just pay someone else to do it. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
12-14-2014, 19:22
Great-Kazoo

Quote:

Originally Posted by Irving

I have limited experience with this type of thing, but if I were to tackle this project, I might consider running a dehumidifier in addition to just blowers. At the very least I'd pull the toekick off the cabinets to get air in there to dry it out. If the structure of the cabinet is damaged, like past the toekicks, then I'd pull them if I couldn't cover it with the new toekick. Also, I'd rent a moisture meter and start pulling boards until the meter read acceptable levels in the floor material, and the subfloor. I'd do the plunge cut to preserve the subfloor, and as long as it was structurally sound I'd dry it up and paint it with Kilz or some other moisture barrier. Then I'd re-install new flooring material where I cut, then sand and refinish the ENTIRE floor (even other rooms), so it all looks the same.

Realistically, since I don't have experience in this, I'd just pay someone else to do it. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

We do , one will be surprised how far water damage can travel. Until that mold issue pops up. Wev ran fans and a dehumidifier for almost 2 weeks before a moisture meter was within acceptable levels. Then ran it another week just for the CYA.
12-14-2014, 19:38
Colorado_Outback

Quote:

Originally Posted by Irving

Realistically, since I don't have experience in this,

You would make an excellent Certified Welding Inspector, if your ever looking for a career change [LOL]
12-14-2014, 19:47
muddywings

I'll pass that info on but doing the whole floor is out. Previous owner had wood floored the whole thing- 3 bedrooms hallways kitchen/dining area family room living room. It's huge!
You can also see prior water damage from kitchen sink area-cabinet boxes are pretty trashed.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
12-14-2014, 20:03
Great-Kazoo

Quote:

Originally Posted by muddywings

I'll pass that info on but doing the whole floor is out. Previous owner had wood floored the whole thing- 3 bedrooms hallways kitchen/dining area family room living room. It's huge!
You can also see prior water damage from kitchen sink area-cabinet boxes are pretty trashed.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

All the more reason to look deeper. She should look to see if that previous water damage was reported / disclosure in the sale. IF not well, there's some issues with that too. OR to get a jump on your new thread. How my friends leaking dishwasher turned in to a $300K lawsuit. Wouldn't be the first one.
12-14-2014, 21:08
Irving

Quote:

Originally Posted by muddywings

I'll pass that info on but doing the whole floor is out. Previous owner had wood floored the whole thing- 3 bedrooms hallways kitchen/dining area family room living room. It's huge!

This is why I asked about insurance up front. 1,000 sq/ft of sanding and refinishing might be over a $1,000 deductible. ;)
12-14-2014, 22:07
Irving

Quote:

Originally Posted by Colorado_Outback

You would make an excellent Certified Welding Inspector, if your ever looking for a career change [LOL]

If it comes with training and then I just act like I know what I'm talking about AND it pays more than what I make now. Let's talk! :D
12-15-2014, 01:06
Colorado_Outback

Yes, you can be trained as a CWI with out ever putting on a welding hood. "I dont know how to weld but I'm pretty sure your doing it wrong.."

Man I wish I could find his meme of a female CWI that was posted on one of the welding groups, cracks me up every time.
12-15-2014, 08:15
muddywings

I'll pass on the advice above. I suspect, knowing her financial situation, she is going to try the cheapest route and insurance probably isn't it. I did recommend just calling in a pro and getting their estimate (and opinion).
12-15-2014, 09:47
Great-Kazoo

Quote:

Originally Posted by muddywings

I'll pass on the advice above. I suspect, knowing her financial situation, she is going to try the cheapest route and insurance probably isn't it. I did recommend just calling in a pro and getting their estimate (and opinion).

Estimates are free. Having to do it 2x, isn't