My "Precision" Rifle

Just wanted to share pictures, progress, thoughts, ideas, etc. as I go along.

First, here is how it currently looks.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...60d1014c9a.jpg

Some quick details.

Remington 700 AAC-SD in 308. Factory except for some minor fluff and buff type stuff from Red Hawk Rifles in Grand Junction and an oversize bolt knob.

I dropped it in an XLR Industries "Element" chassis. They are based out of Grand Junction as well. It was black and I rattle canned it just because I wanted to. I also replaced the grip that came on it because I just didn't like the way it fit my hand.

I put a Silencerco Specwar Trifecta muzzle brake on it. Probably going to be a while before I can put a suppressor on it. I mostly just wanted a brake for now. I like the Surefire and AAC brakes but this one had three ports instead of two and was half the cost.

Just picked up a Badger Ordinance 20MOA base for it today. My next post or two will show you why I think I need to bed it.

So, picked up a Badger Ordinance base for it today.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...f356388241.jpg

With the front mount screw sugged down the front of the mount lies flat on the receiver. I tried slipping a .0015" feeler gauge under it with no success.

Then, I moved to the rear of the mount. I couldn't get anything under it on the right side but there is definitely a gap on the left side. A .005" feeler gauge goes completely under it and about half way to the other side.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...5f1e07499d.jpg

Here's a couple of shots with a piece of paper under it. Might give you a better idea of what I'm talking about.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...7ada4d0f49.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...66a2079f57.jpg

I'll go into better detail about why I feel this is an issue and what I plan to do about it when I can get to my computer this evening.

Did you decide on glass yet?

Looks really good. I like the paint!

Dont worry about it. If you still have a gap after putting some ass on all the screws, then you have a problem.

The paint does look cool for sure.

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Originally Posted by Spdu4ia

Did you decide on glass yet?

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No. Probably something from Vortex. If I decide to skip the FFP I will most likely get the Viper HS-T 4-16.

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Originally Posted by Hoser

Dont worry about it. If you still have a gap after putting some ass on all the screws, then you have a problem.

The paint does look cool for sure.

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I've always valued your opinion when it comes to bad ass firearm type stuff. Afraid I'm going to have to skip your well intentioned advice on this matter though. I'm trying to make this thing as perfect as possible. And my mild case of OCD just wouldn't let me live with a base that I know has a slight twist in it once I torque it down.

Really well done on the paint. Looks good.

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Originally Posted by Fentonite

Looks really good. I like the paint!

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Originally Posted by ColoWyo

Really well done on the paint. Looks good.

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Thanks. I'm looking forward to taking it out on the plains to see how well it blends in out there.

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Originally Posted by ray1970

Afraid I'm going to have to skip your well intentioned advice on this matter though. I'm trying to make this thing as perfect as possible. And my mild case of OCD just wouldn't let me live with a base that I know has a slight twist in it once I torque it down.

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No problem at all. Let us know how the base bedding part works out.

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Originally Posted by Hoser

No problem at all. Let us know how the base bedding part works out.

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I'll post up some pictures when I do it. I have a plan. Just need to figure out what kind of compound to use. I have some metal repair stuff at work that is pretty awesome (and expensive). Might see if it will work. Not sure which ones we have but here's a link.

http://www.belzona.com/en/products/p...al-repair.aspx

Looks great Ray. Hope to see you at a match soon!

Great looking rifle Ray!

The barrel is where the money is made.. Any plans for that?

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Originally Posted by MBsnow

The barrel is where the money is made.. Any plans for that?

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Yep. Shoot it as-is so that I can work on the fundamentals and learn all of the basics. By the time I have all of that sorted out hopefully the round count will be high enough I can feel good about a barrel upgrade. Probably switch calibers then too.

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Originally Posted by ray1970

I'll post up some pictures when I do it. I have a plan. Just need to figure out what kind of compound to use. I have some metal repair stuff at work that is pretty awesome (and expensive). Might see if it will work. Not sure which ones we have but here's a link.

http://www.belzona.com/en/products/p...al-repair.aspx

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I've used JB weld to bed 3 of my rifle scope mounts, and plan to do it on number 4 as soon as it's finished being built. It works well, is cheap, and I've pulled the base on one a couple times to check it and it's held up fine in the over 2800 rounds through that rifle. (yes, my OCD compels me to log every round down the barrel)

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Originally Posted by ray1970

Yep. Shoot it as-is so that I can work on the fundamentals and learn all of the basics. By the time I have all of that sorted out hopefully the round count will be high enough I can feel good about a barrel upgrade. Probably switch calibers then too.

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Your OCD flares up over aluminum scope mounts but it is fine with a shitty barrel?

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Originally Posted by Hoser

Your OCD flares up over aluminum scope mounts but it is fine with a shitty barrel?

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Lol. Pretty much.

Shitty is is a relative term anyways. I had another one of these rifles once and in the crappy Hogue stock with the factory trigger and a $300 SWFA scope it would shoot .5 to .75 MOA at 100 yards with very little load development.

Since I'm really only planning on shooting from 100 to about 500 yards if it will group around .5 MOA with its favorite load it should serve me well for now.

Remember folks, this is really my first leap into any sort of precision rifle stuff. I'm going to have a lot to learn for a while. I think this will make a decent starter rifle for me until I outgrow it.

Why only 500yrds?

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Originally Posted by Spdu4ia

Why only 500yrds?

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Mostly only 500. And technically the range I most intend to use it on is actually 500 meters. Not yards.

I mostly just want to ring steel on the metallic silhouette range out at CRC. Might take it out on an occasional coyote hunt with some guys from work. Maybe.

If the gun will shoot .5MOA, I don't see a reason to switch the barrels...

What if the barrel is a 1.5 MOA barrel? I would always wonder whether or not it's me or the gun.

I'd hate to spend a lot of time to find out what the gun likes, just to find out that the best it will do is 1.5MOA.



I'm with Hoser: Change it for a barrel of known quality and proven ability.

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Originally Posted by TheBelly

If the gun will shoot .5MOA, I don't see a reason to switch the barrels...

What if the barrel is a 1.5 MOA barrel? I would always wonder whether or not it's me or the gun.

I'd hate to spend a lot of time to find out what the gun likes, just to find out that the best it will do is 1.5MOA.



I'm with Hoser: Change it for a barrel of known quality and proven ability.

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I'd like to at least try it out before I condemn it.

If it is a 1.5 MOA barrel it will be coming off promptly.

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Originally Posted by ray1970

I'd like to at least try it out before I condemn it.

If it is a 1.5 MOA barrel it will be coming off promptly.

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By not replacing it, how will you know if it's the barrel, the ammo, or the shooter?

I mean that question with no idea of your shooting proficiency, Ray. Please don't think I'm doubting your abilities.

I've been shooting pretty regularly for over 32 years. I can probably tell if it's shooter error. I've been loading my own ammo for over 20 years. I'll try quite a few loads and if none of them show any promise and I'm pretty certain I'm not the problem then I'll lean towards the barrel being an issue.

I had a Savage many years ago that I could consistently shoot groups below 1/2" inch at 100 yards. Most were usually around 3/8". I just never stretched it out past 100 yards.

You re-answered as i was posting....

eh, if you aren't planning on shooting specific matches, and therefore have deadlines to deal with, I see no reason not to run the barrel that's on it to at least check it out and get a feel for things. It's not like you can't re-barrel later.

Although if you do end up re-barreling it, I'd strongly recommend a more effective LR cartridge, because honestly, 308 sucks in comparison to the 6mm and 6.5mm cartridges in the LR game. And sooner or later, you'll buckle to the peer pressure and get your tail out to some of the matches we're all shooting [Coffee]

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Originally Posted by XC700116

eh, if you aren't planning on shooting specific matches, and therefore have deadlines to deal with, I see no reason not to run the barrel that's on it to at least check it out and get a feel for things. It's not like you can't re-barrel later.

Although if you do end up re-barreling it, I'd strongly recommend a more effective LR cartridge, because honestly, 308 sucks in comparison to the 6mm and 6.5mm cartridges in the LR game. And sooner or later, you'll buckle to the peer pressure and get your tail out to some of the matches we're all shooting [Coffee]

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Thanks. That's pretty much what I had in mind. Try the factory barrel, hopefully it's good enough for me to learn on, and if it looks like I am really going to get into it then probably swap the barrel for something in 6 or 6.5 mm.

As far as any of the matches, I don't expect to be out at any of them this year. Maybe next year.

[Beer]

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Originally Posted by ray1970

Thanks. That's pretty much what I had in mind. Try the factory barrel, hopefully it's good enough for me to learn on, and if it looks like I am really going to get into it then probably swap the barrel for something in 6 or 6.5 mm.

As far as any of the matches, I don't expect to be out at any of them this year. Maybe next year.

[Beer]

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Just go.. you know you want to!!

You should really plan shooting some of the local matches. We are there to help, not ridicule, new shooters. There will be a learning curve for sure. You just got to come on out and do it. I think you will be surprised at how well you do.

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Originally Posted by Dinosdeuce

You should really plan shooting some of the local matches. We are there to help, not ridicule, new shooters. There will be a learning curve for sure. You just got to come on out and do it. I think you will be surprised at how well you do.

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^^^ This, You'll learn more in a couple of days of shooting with Guys like Dino, Hoser, Timk, etc than you will in a LOT of time behind the rifle by yourself at a range. I know this first hand, the first ever match I shot was Hoser's Prairie dog match in October of 2013. Since then, I've gone full retard and shot nearly every Raton match, nearly every one of Hoser's matches (PD and the new field match) Snipers Hide Cup, Steel Safari, The Thunderbeast team challenge, and am planning on all of them and more this year.

Those guys helped me a TON, and I'd have burned down my first barrel without knowing half what I do now if it wasn't for them. There's been a lot of others along the way that have taught me a lot as well that aren't members here, but needless to say, the LR competitive community are truly a pleasure to be around and very helpful to others.

Hell, I drive right by you on my way to Pueblo and Raton, If you decide you'd like to give it a whirl, PM me and you can ride down there with me if you'd like. (excluding this month in Raton as I'll be on vacation and won't make that match.

Look on the bright side you'll probably outshoot me on your first time out! But you'll have a hell of a lot of fun.

Thanks, gentlemen. [Beer]

Got around to bedding the scope base today.

Had most of the stuff on hand. Just had to pick up the JB Weld and the wax stick thingy that I decided to use as a release agent.

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps4dfbcb6c.jpg

After degreasing the top of the receiver and the bottom of the scope mount with some of the wife's acetone, I used the wax stick to coat the top of the receiver so the mount wouldn't get stuck.

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m...psaf62ccec.jpg

I coated the screws as well so that they would release.

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps8718f976.jpg

Since I'm only filling a gap of .005" or less, a thin coat was all that was used.

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m...psc9c01df7.jpg

It still oozed out quite a bit.

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m...pscb35aaf8.jpg

Cleaned it up with a little acetone using some q-tips and blue shop towels.

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m...psd4dbf7ac.jpg

I torqued the front screw down but the other three were just run in until they barely touched so as not do induce any stress on the mount. I will probably let it sit like this throughout the week and next Friday I will take it apart, do some final cleaning, and install it and torque it down with some loc-tite on the fasteners.

By torquing the front screw down and not the others you will actually cause it to twist and make a larger gap. Just torque them all down to where you want it to let it harden. I would think if you let it cure the way you have it now and then tighten it down you'll crack the bedding base.

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Originally Posted by Spdu4ia

By torquing the front screw down and not the others you will actually cause it to twist and make a larger gap. Just torque them all down to where you want it to let it harden. I would think if you let it cure the way you have it now and then tighten it down you'll crack the bedding base.

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I'm going to politely disagree with you. But I do appreciate the advice.

Doesn't do any good to bed the base if you torque all the screws down and squeeze all the bedding compound out .

The idea behind bedding the base is you tighten whatever end of the base fits best to the receiver, front or rear doesn't matter . Then just barely snug that end down but not torque it because you want the bedding compound to fill the imperfections . The other end just run the screws in to contact and thats it . Let it all set up and mount as normal .

If you torque both ends you just put the bend in the middle of the base like if you didn't bed it at all .

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Originally Posted by C Ward

Doesn't do any good to bed the base if you torque all the screws down and squeeze all the bedding compound out .

The idea behind bedding the base is you tighten whatever end of the base fits best to the receiver, front or rear doesn't matter . Then just barely snug that end down but not torque it because you want the bedding compound to fill the imperfections . The other end just run the screws in to contact and thats it . Let it all set up and mount as normal .

If you torque both ends you just put the bend in the middle of the base like if you didn't bed it at all .

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Thanks. I'm not very good at explaining things but that's pretty much exactly what I did.

When I test fit the mount the front laid flat on the receiver. Couldn't see any daylight or get a .0015" feels gauge anywhere under it. But the rear of the mount was sticking up in the rear. Mostly on the left side of the mount. By just torquing it down I would induce a twist and possibly a slight bow in the base.

I figured since it was only going to cost me about $6 and less than an hours worth of my time it was no big deal for me to make it about as right as I could.

after the bedding, I'm interested in seeing how 'true' the base will be with the action.

Seems to me that if there was a gap while torqued, even if you torqued them to spec after bedding it's still going to fill in the gap. I thought anyway.

He'll I don't know! [Beer]

Won't change a thing unless the base screw holes are reworked on a mill to the centerline of the bore . Thats why they oversize the screws not because there stronger .

Bedding the base is to take up the tolerance stacking between the base and the receiver and make sure it runs flat and both rings are on the same plane and not bending the scope tube .

C Ward is going to be my new best friend. He seems to be the only one who understands what I'm doing and why I'm doing it. [Beer]