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Installing my first zwave light switch and can't get the light to turn on, not sure what I'm doing wrong. Pics are posted below of wiring, old switch and new. How should I wire this thing up. It's a definite possibility the switch is bad but I want to hear at you guys would do.
I should also note that the two lower wires on at the bottom were originally 1, I snipped it to make installation easier.
What is the bottom wire pig tailed with?
Is there a neutral line in the box? That switch requires one.
2 black wires. I know very little about house wiring. This is the switch for my two front lights, I assuming it's either power in or out to them, splitting in that pigtail.
Everything is black, I don't have a meter. I basically have two wires to work with, the lower 2(was 1 until a minute ago) and the other coming in up top.Quote:
Originally Posted by newracer
The lower 2 tie into the switch next to it on the bottom screw.
The lower two are likely the power in (line) and the other power out (load) to the light. It looks like there might be a bunch of neutrals (white wires) all twisted together in the back of the box. If so you need to connect to those. The switch won't work without it.
Sometimes on older switches, there is only a hot wire. The hot wire is cut, and each end is plugged into the switch. Then the switch connects the wire (on) or breaks the connection (off). I think you really need a meter at this point to figure out what is going on. You can get a cheap one for like $10 at an auto parts store, or even Walmart.
I can pick up a meter later today, it's something I've needed for a long time anyways. I'm thinking I may be missing the neutral as stated. I remember seeing a white jumper in the box when I unpacked it.
The he directions for this thing are complete crap.
I
Quote:
Originally Posted by newracer
Makes sense, so what is the top wire connecting to on the switch?
Yes you're missing the neutral wires. I assume a older house?
Quote:
Originally Posted by kwando
1994, there's neutrals in the box but they weren't connected to the old switch.
Find the right coupon, an you can get a meter free at Harbor freight. Works fine for average tasks, and inexpensive enough to keep one in vehicle, toolbox, garage, camper, etc..
Think of the black wire as a water pipe with water flowing through it. The water needs to flow into the switch, then back out to the lights. You should be able to pull out that neutral bundle and grab one to plug into your new switch. This will be kind of difficult to do over the internet, and there are much better people to help you than me, but with enough pictures and description from you, we should be able to get you going.
Attachment 56785
This switch requires power to function, that is why you need a neutral wire.
The two that were connected together and to the other switch are your line, connect those to the line on your new switch. The other black is the wire to the lights, connect that to the load on your new switch. You will need to add a pigtail to the neutral bunch to connect it to your switch. Lastly connect to ground.
Quote:
Originally Posted by newracer
All set up, switch is working. The above worked perfectly. I guess I just wasn't wrapping my head around it properly since there was no ground or neutral on the other switch.
Thanks guys, hope you're staying warm
I'd still pick up at least 1 of those HF volt meter/testers (especially for free). Even if you have to pay for it, they're usually on sale for $3 or $4. Even if you just use it to check flashlight/smoke detector batteries.
ETA: I have one nice test meter, but probably at least half dozen or more of the HF's floating around.
Nevermind, somebody else already got it. I have nothing useful to contribute.. :)
Glad you got it hooked up and working. I second crays recommendation. I have several of the HF multimeters, they work good enough for most tasks.
I'm gonna order one on Amazon prime tonight. I foresee many projects like this and I don't have enough knowledge to wing this kind of work.
Step away from the electrical devises, bribe someone that knows what they are doing to come take care of that for you.
I will work for M855, but not willing to travel unlaess you are offering couple of 1K cases.
Ive got about 10k rds sitting in the safe. By mid March I could probably trade for an entire home automation system.Quote:
Originally Posted by SideShow Bob
How many COAR-15 members does it take to turn on a light switch? [LOL]