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So I'm in the process of troubleshooting my pool light and I'm stumped. I just installed a new switch and still have the same issue.
Switch on left is the pool light, right is spa. Spa is working fine. Meter is showing 85 volts on the pool switch, 121 on the spa switch.
http://i778.photobucket.com/albums/y...image.jpg4.jpg
It looks like a mess using interrupted hots. But I cant really see enough. Can you lay the switches flat and take a shot straight on?
Gimme 2 minQuote:
Originally Posted by Wulf202
Why aren't the neutrals hooked up?
No idea. I opened the box and this is how it was. Don't know enough about electrical but it seems odd to have unused wires in there. Not sure how the spa light is working though
The whites together looks to be correct. Perhaps this image will help. Someone will come along to correct though.
EDIT: I removed the image so as to not be confusing. The image I posted was two switches, controlling one light. Looks like you have two switches, controlling their own appliances.
Not a 3 way so I don't think there is a traveler. 2 switches each powering a different light.
Check hot to neutral at the switch.
One hot wire in to the first switch, the second switch tapped off of the first at the hot connection, nope not 3-ways.
If you are getting 120V at one switch and only 85V at the second, the hot jumper between the switches, or the second switch is your problem.
Also, you need a grounding jumper to each switch, that is what those crusty green screws on the bottom of each switch are for.
Not sure what that meansQuote:
Originally Posted by Sparky
Quote:
Originally Posted by SideShow Bob
Thats is what's odd. The first switch is getting 85 volts, the second is at 121. Unless I'm completely clueless, which is possible. I just try not to kill myself with electricity. I'll show the meter readings in a min to clarify
I edited my post to include this :Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotchef181818
Also, you need a grounding jumper to each switch, that is what those crusty green screws on the bottom of each switch are for.
i was wondering about that. I did read today that sometimes when a metal box is used outdoors they ground from contacting the box, any truth to that?Quote:
Originally Posted by SideShow Bob
if true why does the spa light work but not the pool light when the aren't screwed in?
Hopefully im not confusing you guys too
Do you really want to trust that leaky ( see the corrosion in the box ) old box to provide a good ground ?
And the previous mentioned water damage in the box is most likely in the switch and or the hot jumper between the switches.
Replace the bell box, seals and cover along with the switches.
you can get it all for less than a $20 bill.
Agreed, I have a new cover and seals awaiting for a working light, I'll grab a box too and swap that out.Quote:
Originally Posted by SideShow Bob
What at I don't understand and maybe I don't know what I'm looking at.....The hot wire comes into the box and hits the left switch first(showing 85 volts) then has a jumper to the right switch(121 volts). Also the spa light isn't grounded either and turning on just fine. Does any of this make sense?
Another question...why is the ground wire coming out of the conduit into a wire nut and the to the screw? Why isn't it ran directly to the screw?
Pull the white wires out of the box and remove the wire nut. Put your meter on the constant hot and white wire. Constant is the black tied to both switches. If you get good voltage turn the switch on and test the switch leg to neutral.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotchef181818
Ground out anything near water or a wet environment (outdoors, even in Texas) or you may get a nasty shock when something goes wrong.
Notice I didn't say if something goes wrong.
Are you measuring the voltages at the switched (controlled) terminal ? If so, there could be corrosion in the contacts inside the switch causing resistance and the voltage drop. If you are measuring at the hot terminal, surface corrosion could be doing the same thing.
Electricity is still a mystery, that is why the schools teach electrical THEORY.
I'll try some of this in the am, getting dark here. There is a gfci before this j box and the switch on the left I new as of today so I think that would rule out corrosion.
And is also outdoors and the same age & condition as this box and devises ? If so, replace it too.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotchef181818
Ill check it as well. I still don't get how any of this explains why the pool light isn't working but the spa light does. Replacing the stuff for regular maintained makes sense and I'll do it while I'm sorting this out since I'm there anyways. Shouldn't the pool light at least come on and be dim with 85 volts? Or is that not how this works ?Quote:
Originally Posted by SideShow Bob
What is the voltage measuring at the non functioning light ? Is it an incandescent lamp, CFL, LED or a ballast controled HID ?
It is a good thing for the neighbors that the your pool light is out, so they don't have to see you skinny dipping, on second thought, maybe that IS why your pool light is not working.........
Maybe the power is traveling in the opposite direction that you think it is.
Il test the light in the am as well. It's a sealed enclosure for the pool niche. This is an underwater light, simple incandescent.Quote:
Originally Posted by SideShow Bob
No skinny dipping, Mosquitos are insane right now. Just hooked up a pretty big zapper tonight, hopefully it helps. I was in the pool last night at 7 and they bit my face 3x, fricken hate texas!
I guess that's possible. How do I figure out which way it's traveling ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Irving
You just stepped into a whole new pile of [pileoshit], in pool niche lighting, do you now if it is 120v or 12v system with a transformer located else where ?
120, no transformer
Were you measuring the 85v at the screw on the left switch where both the incoming hot and jumper to the right switch are ?
Or were you measuring the 85v at the screw with the wire going to the light ?
Red lead top, common lead bottom(hot and jumper), still learning how to use a meter so that could be wrong as well but I did the same on the other switch and showed 121 volts so I assumed I was doing it correctly.Quote:
Originally Posted by SideShow Bob
Post up some pictures tomorrow of you taking these measurement, so we can rule out "operator" error, and figure your problem out. (Pun intended). [Tooth]
It's definitely possible it's operator error. Let me see what I can put together in the morning
This is a joke right?Quote:
Originally Posted by Irving
What I took from that is that the switch on the right is getting power first, thus the 121 volts, then the jumper is bad so only 85 volts are making it to the left switch. I don't see how that's possible though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparky
Irving stick to insurance.
And stay off 12 pitch roofsQuote:
Originally Posted by hghclsswhitetrsh
Fair enough.Quote:
Originally Posted by hghclsswhitetrsh
If it was me, I'd bypass the switches to test. I'd take the hot lead and attach 2 pigtails, 1 for each switch. Then directly wirenut each pigtail to a switch leg.
I never liked working with electricity, I had an uncle electrocuted when I was a kid. Of course his head was shaved and he was strapped to a chair so there wasn't much he could do about it.
"Roll on Two......"Quote:
Originally Posted by flogger