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My former tenants jacked up the bathtub in my rental house. The 1954 tub hardware was removed and it's missing. I don't don't know how to disconnect the drain because it is different then anything I ever worked on. I need to disconnect the tub, attempt to remove it, and check the line for blockages. The whole thing is not good.
edit: I am going to pick up a universal extraction tool and see if that can move the drain ring or not; there is no crossbar in it so my other removal tool won't work.
Picture?
I don't have any close shots of the pipes, but here is one of my walk through picturesAttachment 61080Quote:
Originally Posted by Wulf202
No access panel to the plumbing on the back side of that wall? My house is from the same era and has a drum trap. Easy to clean out if you have access to it, but impossible if you try to snake through the tub. That is where I would start.
ETA, I couldn't get my drain ring to move either. You can start with one of those bendy plastic sticks with spikes on them to clear the hair though. Does that drain take an immediate 90 degree turn?
Drum trap is likely. A camera would help. Usb cameras are cheap.
The part that is missing is called the overflow plate. It usually connects to a rod that has a plunger in the line with that type of drain. The plate would have had some type of toggle on it
Yes, I can get to the plumbing in the back; I haven't noticed a trap, but will look.Quote:
Originally Posted by Irving
There was a lock ring to hold the overflow pipe. The plate screwed into the lock ring. Both the lock ring and plate are gone. I haven't seen anything like it at the hardware store. There wasn't a toggle and the drain was stopped with an old type pull plunger.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wulf202
Is the Drum trap designed to be opened?
I can take a picture of the backside plumbing tonight.
The over flow plate doesn't have a toggle in this case. You can see the rubber stopper sitting on the tub in the picture. The plate just has a threaded bolt that screws in to hold it in place. This looks just like my tub. The drum tap is very likely rusted to all hell and heat may need to be applied to even get it open. With mine, the threads were so rusted the cap was never going to be able to be put back on. Let me know if that is the case and I'll let you know how I fixed mine.
Yes, the drum tap is designed to be opened, just like a pvc pipe end cap that threads on, but likely hasn't been opened since the 1950's. The code changed and use of those traps stopped, supposedly, by the 1970's. I went to home Depot looking for a threaded end cap, but the size is not standard and you won't find one. Instead I bought one of those plastic ones with a rubber band that expands as you tighten the screw. The size that fits inside is too small to get a good seal, and the next size up is too large. I happened to have an extra vacuum cleaner drive belt laying around that perfectly fit around the new plug and gave it just enough material to get a tight fit. Haven't had any issues with leaking in the few years since I did this.
There used to be a place on Brighton blvd that specialized in outdated and antique plumbing
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wulf202
It might still be there, my neighbors were talking about it.
^ They used to be very helpful when I was working. http://www.doiturselfplumbing.com/
They were helpful in that they knew exactly what I needed. Unfortunately, what I need is no longer made so I have to change out the pipes, which will be fun since they are all rusted together.Quote:
Originally Posted by StagLefty
So, I may need a plumber; anybody on here interested in the pipe removal/replacement and clear the blockage job?
Here is a shot of the pipe access. Underneath the tub sub-floor is crawl space...3-4ft or so with lighting.
Attachment 61103
I think dunecrazy is the last plumbing contractor on the board. Evilrhino got a day job
If you can assemble a lower that replacement is a slice of pie. Even if you couldn't assemble a lower, that replacement job is a piece of cake. Time consuming, yes. difficult, not really.Quote:
Originally Posted by MED
Try Flink Supply in Denver. They carry a lot of plumbing stuff used in the older parts of Denver.
http://flinksupply.com/
I would 86 those old valves and put in ball valves while you're in there. I've had more trouble with those things than I care to remember with not actually shutting off the water anymore. Anytime I work on a pipe that has one, I replace it.
Just saw the last picture. It looks like slip fitting on the overflow stand pipe. Should be easy if so
Non of my lower builds had 61 year old rusty parts with sludge [Eek3]Quote:
Originally Posted by Great-Kazoo
I don't understand what needs replaced. Can you access the drum trap from the crawl space? If so, should be as simple as opening, then snaking from the open trap.
Looks like now's the time to learn. OR sell the place as is. You start contracting this type of repair out, you'll be knee deep in $$$$ outlay. Pay some merry maids cleaning crew to come in do a top - bottom. Pay them, slap a for sale sign out and wait.Quote:
Originally Posted by MED
I hear ya. However, I have floor refinishing, tile work, carpet to pull up, counter top replacement, some drywall repair, some electrical, paint, some siding replacement, and the yard to clean up. I would rather focus on the things I am good at and outsource what I am not. I had several things that were due for replacement already plus the damage. I am pretty much screwed when it comes to the "$$$$ outlay". Speaking of which, I have done several bathrooms all the plumbing, electrical, and tile...just don't want to deal with the drain on this one; it's a choice and money well spent.Quote:
Originally Posted by Great-Kazoo
I no longer have the hardware to connect the overflow to the tub. I talked to the people reference in the thread, and the hookup replacement is my only option.Quote:
Originally Posted by Irving
Ahh, I see.