A few structural/humidity questions

Hokay, 3 questions. But the issues at hand arn't specific to aquarium knowledge. I'm putting in a 300 deep dimension reef tank. (6ftx3x27inch high) Going to create a seperate thread on the floor I'd like to reinforce just in case, this post is more for issues in the room it's going in.

#1 First is, the tank, which will run lines into basement for the sump, I intend to put it in a corner office of the house along an outside wall. There is 2 windows with like 5 inch divider between them. Below them is an air vent I'd like to run the overflow and return to the basement. Outside the windows is the covered front porch. I would intend to probably leave the blinds closed most or all the time (no algae issues).

I originally intended to be able to open blinds in evening and let neighborhood enjoy tank from back, but I decided the clear background would take away from my own viewing too much so will be painting it. My mover buddies though have cautioned me against this placement. I have another option, but for several reasons I'd much prefer to stick with this. The concerns were primarily around condensation with the windows and salt creep.

I was wondering if I should be worried about that and options? I need to find something that wouldn't make the wall too unsightly, so just hanging plastic tarp isn't great. My ideas include possibly using a cover on the tank to further cut evaporation (between that and sump in basement figure it cant be too bad) Or possibly just moving the stand forward a bit to give me some clearance on the back wall I can squeeze behind a little to do some clean up as needed. This would require the overflows going from just a 45 angled into the vent straight under stand to being still same angle really but just angled out the back of the stand to the vent. Was planning on Herbie drain as the ML 300dd only has 2 holes in each overflow.



#2 I'm probably getting a steel stand made, I think it would be prettiest and easiest to get glossy black vs trying to mess with a big wood stand and look nice for my skills. Fairly tall stand since it's a DD tank for better viewing. Looking at emulating this tank from on RC. Difference being it's a FRAMED marineland. http://ksimonian.com/J/Fish-Tank-03.jpg So my question is with a steel stand similiar to the one linked. Is there any reason I should be having a board either under the stand or on top of the base like in image? Sump will be in basement as stated. Floor is wood laminate so I'll be putting towels down to work often regardless. Would like to avoid destroying it with imprints of the tank.

For the top of the stand, since Ive got the plastic rim, means I should NOT use foam or anything right? But any advantages to having a board across it vs just making sure the rim fits onto the foot print of the stand correctly.

#3 How much variation or what not do I have when it comes to steel. I see all the info on wood, but I don't know what changes for steel. Here's a stand unpainted by the guy I was going to have do mine. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5b51467338.jpg

But I notice its legs differ from the gorgeous one above. I am guessing I can skip those little wing supports in the back of the rimless 300 pic. But for my size tank (6x3x27high) Is it wise to stick with 2 vertical supports front/back besides the corners? And if so is it fine with the 3 foot width to not have an aditional vertical on the sides. (Not having it would be ideal for sliding in equipment if I had to abandon the basement sum for some reason.) Builder guy says he usually uses 1.75 square (so basically 2x2) for the steel.


Stand then be left open or just rare earch magnet some panels.

The wall
Attachment 63705
The smaller stand guy had built
Attachment 63704

My kinda goal look
Attachment 63706

The tank needs to be away from the exterior wall. Temperature differentials will cause mold with the humidity. Make damned sure your window drains are clear as those are going to be sweating constantly.

If you use the vent penetraition to run water you need to make up that airflow elsewhere. Could you cut the vent penetraition to the next larger size and use the extra area to run water? When you sell or move the tank just install the boot and vent the next size up.

The laminate flooring will get trashed by having a tank there. Just accept it.

The wood decking is to distribute the weight on the stand and not leave all that water on a very large sheet of glass. From my guess.

This is over 2500# are you sure your joists can hold it?

There's another vent in the room, and the doors are a double big french so probably open most of the time. I thought of even just drilling thru the vent itself just big enough for pipes so theres still a little extra flow from it, might even help heat/cool tank a tiny bit.

Not sure what a window drain looks like but I'll take a look.

I had kinda wondered if the laminate might be saved a bit easier by putting down a larger flat board under stand or even just rubber backed carpet squares. (But carpet and water bad and can't clean up as easy). Ideally it doesnt matter since tank will be there for 30 years.

So when you have a rimless or acrylic tank, then a supported in center plywood top is common along with foam to even out any slight deformation and create that even support. For a rimmed tank, essentially that bottom pan is already suspended on the 4 edges on top of the rim, and for those I know you specifically shouldn't try using foam or anything to level.


Like I said, seperate thread for joists etc. Had a few people think I'm probably fine, but folk in my hobby like to over due it just in case. From what I recall this actually ends up more like 3-5k lbs depending on a few things. Another reason I wanted the 125 gallon sump in basement. My biggest problem is I think mine are a bit wide apart. Figured it was helped since joists right over the concrete base. Other wall over the steel I beam. I'll post pics etc in another thread down the road. This is a slow over course of year build.

I'm not following a bunch of your terms. I fix and build buildings and I'm not into fish tanks.

Ac ducts are placed and designed for flow. Just because there's another vent in the room doesn't mean you can remove one without consequences.

A sheet of 5/8 plywood would certainly help the flooring but humidity will trash it pretty quickly. I worked a project where every first floor had cupping because the concrete hadn't been cured long enough and the shaw rep found that the moisture had migrated thru the backing

Ya humidity sucks. I'm not sure how worried to be, I really don't think it would be that bad. Didn't see condensation on windows with my 210 with 75g sump and a couple other smallish tanks running. But that was in a wide open unfinished basement. Here I'll have a fair bit of water volume in there basement so hoped dividing it up would help.

Some folk do run de-hunidifiers. But those are usually in walled off sump rooms with lots of water surface area evaporating.

I guess the thing I need to do is figure out if I want to build a cover over the windows just to be safe. Keep them isolated and from there outside folks would just see the wood slats of the blinds that hang in the window.

Vs an ugly plastic Sheet taped down.

Maybe just wall them off?

Ya that's what I mentioned in the op, just something like that is foreign to me. A wall that is raised out from surrounding wall vs something insert and sealed. Ideally something I could undo if ever sold. Lol maybe go ahead and plastic Sherry the windows and hang a giant drape/curtain/portrait over it.

Basically I'm not handy with any kind of in home finished stuff.

The water (300 gal.) alone will be 2,502#, with the weight of the tank and stand, hardware & sand, gravel and or rocks, your estimate of around 3,000# is about right.

All that weight is going to be concentrated on the square tubing or angle iron on the bottom. Even with carpet squares, you are going to trash the flooring.
Put down some impermeable padding, then a piece of 3/4" marine plywood painted to match the stand and your flooring might survive.
Cut some foil backed stiff foam board to fit in the window frames, cover the inside with 1/4" plywood, then cover that with a "Fat Head" wall decal that is an under ocean scene to go with the salt water aquarium.

As far as using air ducts for running water piping, I am sure there is some building code against that. I know there are codes against running electrical in air ducts.

Wouldn't travel with the pipe, just be PVC running thru it straight down. No matter since I also was planning just to remove it too and cap it.

Wouldn't I need to do something with the foamboard and put wood to seal it from moisture laden air getting past it, or is that the double duty of the fat head wall sticker. I'd be tempted to just dry wall? Squares into the windows and seal and paint. Trace a faint out line to knock them back out later.

Thanks for that idea, gives me an idea of what to do.

Going to need to play with how far from wall I can put this. Center of the room had some drawbacks but if I can do 2.5 feet or so means I could access back, clean up and maintain wall or windows better etc.

The foil on the foam board is a vapor/moisture barrier, slightly bevel the edges of the foam board so the foil side is larger and to the room side.
Unless you are running the tanker so hot that you are boiling the fish, or have a humidifier in your duct work, the dry air in CO. Should suck up most of the moisture put out by evaporation from the tank. And of course spacing the tank away from the wall.

Tile the floor area under the tank coming out a little around for aesthetics. You could also put in a vent fan to the outside behind the tank to help ventilate. Or a dehumidifier hooked to a drain.

I've always been told by structural engineers that you use the sq/ft load of a refrigerator for a comparison to your tank/hottub. If your fridge isn't sagging your floor neither will the tank if it's the same or less per sq/ft load.


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Originally Posted by SideShow Bob

The foil on the foam board is a vapor/moisture barrier, slightly bevel the edges of the foam board so the foil side is larger and to the room side.
Unless you are running the tanker so hot that you are boiling the fish, or have a humidifier in your duct work, the dry air in CO. Should suck up most of the moisture put out by evaporation from the tank. And of course spacing the tank away from the wall.

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Thanks for the last bit. When talking with fish folk online I forgot that when they freak out more, in forgetting many are in CA/Florida/ other non desert states. Makes sense to me.

I think I'll take some mushed board to replace if it's ever removed. I thought I'd the tile, think it would be hard to match the room and not cost a bundle to have done since it's outside my skill I imagine.

I think with the foamboard plan is mostly covered. As far as that and finding some space from walls. Need to get apvc mockup and finish getting lizards sold and I think this huge office desk removed.

Guess stand design is answered since I'll have builder mimic the pictures tank I think. He said 1.75 square he normally uses, unsure if I'll need him to go bigger. I r no rocket wizard.

PS it's nice to get more fed back here than on the actual national reef tank forum.

The problem with moving farther from the wall depends on the supports under it. If it's a structural wall it's best to stay close to it.

Colorado is dry, but dry enough to suck up all the moisture of a big tank, or a clothes dryer venting into a 1300sq/ft apartment. Plan accordingly to be safe.

Paint the wall behind the tank with gloss paint so it's easier to wipe down. Also, really consider the tile floor, maybe even a floor drain in it just in case. Nothing worse than overflowing in your living room.

What lizards are you selling?


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What about the very thick rubber flooring that is used in gyms? Those surely hold thousands of pounds of weight under the machines and don't get torn up like the cheap stuff.

If they are too thick though I imagine you would introduce a tiny amount of wobble and any flexing with this kind of tank is bad.

@firehouse not sure if you recall, actually bought coral from ya when you were closing the biz down. Seeling an ackie monitor and argentine black and white tegu. Probably my cresteds too.

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Originally Posted by fitz19d

If they are too thick though I imagine you would introduce a tiny amount of wobble and any flexing with this kind of tank is bad.

@firehouse not sure if you recall, actually bought coral from ya when you were closing the biz down. Seeling an ackie monitor and argentine black and white tegu. Probably my cresteds too.

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I remember. I used to have a big 40"x50"x14" open top tank. I don't think you ever saw it. Lots of humidity, even with 12' ceilings. I miss the tank, don't miss the maintenance.

My kids are into cresteds, have anything premium?


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Let me pm you later when I can find sale add and pics of 2i didn't have listed.