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Recently moved to a house that is wired for generator backup. On the outside is this setup
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l1...pswrdvo6vy.jpg
On the bottom is this plug, I believe it is a L14-30 style plug.
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l1...psvsmdrlr2.jpg
My generator is a Duramax EP4850-EX, and the plug matches
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l1...psvtmxdmmd.jpg
Is it as simple as getting a extension that matches? Do i need a special gauge per length?
You need to verify guage based on amps and length. Google has plenty of charts.
Amps also need to be verified for the panel draw and the plug rating.
Short answer is you need #10 gauge 4 wire SO cord. Limit the length of cord. I'd keep it within 20 ft personally.
I looked up your generator and is rated for 3,850 constant watts. It's not going to handle much. You need something like a 7.5 kw generator IMO.
His generator will keep the fridge going, maybe alight or 2. Forget about HVAC. We have a 7500W unit. if the house requires heat (GFA) it's a noticeable draw on start up. Which is what people overlook when buying. Sure it will handle run times, but not always one that can handle start up surge. . I run a 10/4 15' cord for the house - genny.Quote:
Originally Posted by PSS
Thx, there is a spot next to the panel for the generator so I should be able to get away with a short cable.
Yea I am aware it's low, its mainly for well pump.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Great-Kazoo
Turn off all circuits on the generator, start generator, then slowly turn each circuit on. Unless you have an auto-start generator back up. In that case get a bigger generator.
1. It would behoove you to figure out what each circuit feeds before you need to hook up the generator. You might turn a particular circuit off-on-off, as needed and when needed.
2. While Home Depot or Lowes might have all the parts, I would buy all the parts from an electrical supply house. If you were in Colo. Spgs., I would recommend American Electric.
Good luck.
turn on the ones you need. Run the furnace at night, fridge during day etc. Alternate. I can run one or two of these devices together usually with my 1850 watt.Quote:
Originally Posted by SideShow Bob
Be sure one breaker has some lights, another furnace, another fridge/kitchen. I don't need to run it all at once.
We ran the fridge every 4-5 hours. Things needed in it were not important enough to warrant opening. One of the reasons we have these discussions. What does one do and how prepared are they.Quote:
Originally Posted by gnihcraes
I had the same manual transfer switch on my last house. Loved it. I didn't need any 220 during an outage so having 10 transferring circuits was pretty nice. Used it for a almost a week after what was left of Ike turned into an ice storm in Kentucky.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...82a632ad5e.jpg
Also look at Depression-era tricks for preserving food without electricity. We used to have sporadic power outages in Honolulu when I was growing up and the radio would broadcast tips like putting your meat in a container and pouring lard over the top to seal it away from the air.Quote:
Originally Posted by Great-Kazoo
I was at a local Home Depot last night; their cord is SKU #711-575.
25' long, 10/4, 30A. $70 ea.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-25...46AB/100665722
I would recommend a Kill a Watt too. https://www.amazon.com/Huining-Inter...ez+power+meter. Nice way to figure how many watts you need. I use it all the time. You'd be amazed how much power stuff uses.