Ball joints replacement 87 S10

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08-23-2016, 19:29
sellersm

Ball joints replacement 87 S10

87 Blazer S10 2WD upper & lower ball joints need replacing. My son in law wants to do this job this coming Sunday.

Any "gotchas" or helpful hints? Anybody done this?

Thanks!!

Sent from my fat fingers using Tapatalk
08-23-2016, 20:36
Irving

Youtube, seriously.
08-23-2016, 20:51
Buff

Quote:

Originally Posted by sellersm

87 Blazer S10 2WD upper & lower ball joints need replacing. My son in law wants to do this job this coming Sunday.

Any "gotchas" or helpful hints? Anybody done this?

Thanks!!

Sent from my fat fingers using Tapatalk

I've only changed them on a solid axle 4X4 but I'm sure the approach is much the same.

Start soaking ball joint and tie rod nuts Saturday with penetrating oil like "Blaster" if they're rusty.
Besides your run of mill tools you'll need a "pickle fork" to remove tie rod ends, a ball joint removal/installation tool, wrench/socket big enough to remove nut on ball joint.
Plan to replace cotter pins you remove.
Depending the last time wheel bearing wear replaced you may want to consider replacing them and the races, at a minimum repack them and replace the seals.
If brakes are getting close to being worn I'd replace them while everything is apart and you may consider turning the disc if they're showing wear or are glazed too.
Since it's 2wd it should go pretty easy/fast but still plan on spending the majority of the day if it's your first time.
08-23-2016, 21:12
sellersm

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buff

I've only changed them on a solid axle 4X4 but I'm sure the approach is much the same.

Start soaking ball joint and tie rod nuts Saturday with penetrating oil like "Blaster" if they're rusty.
Besides your run of mill tools you'll need a "pickle fork" to remove tie rod ends, a ball joint removal/installation tool, wrench/socket big enough to remove nut on ball joint.
Plan to replace cotter pins you remove.
Depending the last time wheel bearing wear replaced you may want to consider replacing them and the races, at a minimum repack them and replace the seals.
If brakes are getting close to being worn I'd replace them while everything is apart and you may consider turning the disc if they're showing wear or are glazed too.
Since it's 2wd it should go pretty easy/fast but still plan on spending the majority of the day if it's your first time.

Thx!

Sent from my fat fingers using Tapatalk
08-23-2016, 21:24
ray1970

I recommend some beer and a well balanced vocabulary of curse words.

Oh, and a big hammer is pretty useful too. Seriously. A 40 oz. cross-peen is my favorite for front end work.

And please be careful. Those front coil springs have a lot of stored energy.
08-23-2016, 22:14
Great-Kazoo

Don't forget SAFETY GLASSES. and getting it aligned afterward.

If you have a compressor and air tools use them.
08-24-2016, 05:07
Colorado Osprey

I hope since it is a 1987 that these have been done a few times before since they are notorious for wasting ball joints and idler arms.
If the uppers are original they are riveted onto the upper control arm. The fastest way to remove the rivets is a torch to heat up the rivet and an air hammer and a chisel bit to shear off the end of the rivet. A drift punch will then drive the rivet out.
The new ball joints will come with bolts to install.

Lowers are pretty straight forward.

Because the ball joints are usually replaced every 30k or so on the S-10/15 series there is also a chance you might need the oversized lower ball joints if the lower control arm is loose where the joint installs.

Book time if I recall on the 4x4 was close to 2 hrs per side for ball joints. After the 1st 100 trucks they can be done in about 20 min/side. Don't forget to check your idler arm as well, its probably toast.
08-24-2016, 10:28
sellersm

Quote:

Originally Posted by Colorado Osprey

I hope since it is a 1987 that these have been done a few times before since they are notorious for wasting ball joints and idler arms.
If the uppers are original they are riveted onto the upper control arm. The fastest way to remove the rivets is a torch to heat up the rivet and an air hammer and a chisel bit to shear off the end of the rivet. A drift punch will then drive the rivet out.
The new ball joints will come with bolts to install.

Lowers are pretty straight forward.

Because the ball joints are usually replaced every 30k or so on the S-10/15 series there is also a chance you might need the oversized lower ball joints if the lower control arm is loose where the joint installs.

Book time if I recall on the 4x4 was close to 2 hrs per side for ball joints. After the 1st 100 trucks they can be done in about 20 min/side. Don't forget to check your idler arm as well, its probably toast.

Thanks!
08-24-2016, 20:51
BushMasterBoy

Check the condition of the brake hose lines. If the calipers are hanging by the brake lines, you may end up with trouble. I had an old brake line not let the pressure off the caliper on a old chevy truck. It got really hot and glazed the rotor. If the hoses are original, might be a good time to change them while you got everything apart.
08-25-2016, 08:23
rondog

I did 'em on my 2000 Silverado, don't ever want to do it again.....
08-25-2016, 13:41
Hound

It's one of the first 'car jobs' I ever did, on a 64' Chevy II. Pretty straight forward but you will need the forks and a good hammer. This is well within a beginners task.