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So I have a SiCo threaded 1/2x28 Glock 19 barrel and a TBRCI Mini Comp on my EDC rig. When everything is tight and lined up it works great, the problem is the comp is constantly working itself loose. Trying to find a machinist , smith, or a DIY'er that could give me a hand getting the comp timed and indexed to the barrel so that everything is lined up correctly and won't loosen after a few hundred rounds.
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Rocksett?
Set screws?
This would make getting the barrel out of the slide kind of difficult.Quote:
Originally Posted by kwando
Less so than damaging the threads after the set screw is tightened down.Quote:
Originally Posted by ray1970
Rocksett loosens up in hot water, nothing special when it comes to installing a brake. Or removing it. There's always loctite for those who don't like rocksett. A dab of blue (242?) should resolve the issue, providing all surfaces have been properly cleaned before hand
Well, I wouldn't recommend running the set screw into the threads. Drilling a dimple once the brake is indexed so the screw doesn't jack up the threads would be a good idea.
Blue loctite might be a better idea.
Loctite has not worked.
Vibra tite has not worked.
The supplied set screws have not worked.
Barrel threads are already kinda screwed up. Not enough to prevent mounting or removing the comp or a thread protector however.
I would ideally like to shim and time ICW Rocksett, or drill and pin with Loctite.
Removing the barrel is not a concern as I would only do that to replace the barrel. Bore snake and solvent soak the comp every few thousand rounds.
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I will post pictures ASAP.
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Well, I'm sticking with the set screw idea if done properly.
Mount and index the device. Drill through the hole for the screw making a deep dimple into the barrel. Insert and tighten the set screw. Take a punch and peen some metal over the screw so that it is physically impossible for the screw to back out. Done.
Option "B" would be to crossdrill the device and use a roll pin or maybe even a taper pin to secure it to the barrel.
If your "Cleaning Process" involves submerging the parts in harsh solvents then that pretty much rules out any chemical based thread locker. Your only option will be a mechanical solution such as a set screw or something like that. If I was in your boat I would drill and tap the comp with a 5-40 or 6-40 thread then put a deep dimple in the mating surface of the barrel threads. Doing this would allow you to use a fairly stout set screw so you can put some decent tightening torque on it and the deep dimple would retain the clock timing of the comp on the barrel. A cross drilled hole with roll pin would also achieve the same result, but would probably be a lot harder to do without a mill. That and roll pins like to work out over time which creates another fun issue to deal with. A cross drilled threaded hole with a long set screw would probably be the most solid solution, but you are not doing that kind of stuff without spending serious $$$ for a machine shop to do it.
Since your not planning on removing the barrel you could go with green locktite 680 or 609.
I use MP Pro-7 cleaner and lube. I would most likely use a taper pin if I were to pin it in place. Bumping up to a larger set screw seems like the most reasonable course of action and is something I can do myself.
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Given the passivated Glock barrel and anodized brake, it could well be that there aren't enough stray metallic ions to catalyze Loctite. Have you found that Loctite solidifies?