Looking for my chainsaw chain to get sharpened as close to brighton as possible. Anybody do this or know someone? It's a stihl ms170 16" if it matters.
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Looking for my chainsaw chain to get sharpened as close to brighton as possible. Anybody do this or know someone? It's a stihl ms170 16" if it matters.
If you have a dremel, then go to Lowes and get a little guide with the 3 little 1/8 stones and you can sharpen it to just like new.
I'll stop by and take a look. My step dad had a harbor freight electric sharpener he said I could try as well. I bought the files without a guide and while better, it's not cutting great.
ACE at 120/Colorado has a service. They outsource it. Takes a few days.
I imagine the ACE in Brighton near Wally World does the same.
Having a shop sharpen with a chain grinder is easy but costly if you do much wood cutting. Figure the money and time spent to and from the shop (and dinking with them) when you could be cutting wood. But if you're a do it yourselfer and have much wood cutting in your future I suggest this: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Genuine-O...736A/116737374
I've used an Oregon bar mounted file guide like this for 35 years, countless hundreds of chain sharpenings to cut thousands of trees. It's a little work to use but superior to simply using a hand file and file guide to get consistent angles and depths. Accurate chain sharpening will give better performance and longer chain and chain saw life.
I also use a chain grinder to reform old worn, uneven and rocked chains. One like this: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...3874_200673874 Works great but not for everyday maintenance. The shops use chain grinders like this, and they sell more new chains because of it.
Glad to read this. I have the files around here somewhere, no guides, was gonna try. Your post changed my mind and probably saved me some grief. Hell, only about $20 for a new blade, it's hard to make me want to file every individual link, especially if it doesn't cut well.Quote:
Originally Posted by sniper7
Fwiw, I tried the harbor freight grinder and returned it. It had waaay too much play to get consistent cuts. Junk. For the money you will lose much more in chain loss than what you save over buying a better grinder. The northern tool grinder, or better, an oregon grinder will be much easier to use and make more consistent grinds on the cutters. Still, chain grinders are for fixing worn or rocked chains, not for regular maintenance.Quote:
Originally Posted by sniper7
Trying to save you time and $$$.....
My Granberg sharpener works great.
Also runs off 12 volt so you can sharpen in the field when that hidden stone trashes your chain.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-uS4_eA9zwc
Yeah I almost bought a new chain when I was at the John Deere dealership getting my oils and filters for the tractor but figured I would try the files.
I'll probably try my stepdads electric sharpener first, if that doesn't work I'll drop it off somewhere.
Nothing planned for a while so no biggie on down time but I'll probably pick up a guide at a minimum to do inbewteen quick sharpening.
My Granberg sharpener works great.
Also runs off 12 volt so you can sharpen in the field when that hidden stone trashes your chain.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-uS4_eA9zwc
Ok thanks I'll see if he has had any kind of luck, if not I'll pass on that one. ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by Hummer
I usually have 4 chains(for each saw) in rotation all through cutting season. I drop off/pick up each time I go to town.
After a couple short visits with grinderman it is automatic. He let's me know when down to 2 sharpenings left on a chain. Pulls new chain off shelf and puts with my sharpened chains when one needs junked.
I get more life out of the chains having them done by a pro and I am very rough on them. I recycle a lot of pallets/wood skids and hit many hidden nails.
I like to do most things myself and can when needed, sharpen wood tooling, but feel money ahead having my chains, saw blades, router bits, planer knives sharpened by pro on commercial equipment.
I would hook you up but my chain grinderman is in Ft Morgan.
Am pretty sure there will be a couple guys in Brighton that do a good job. Most stores (hdwe, auto parts, farm) will send them out, look for somebody doing it in house.
If you're unarmed, you are a victim
Quote:
Originally Posted by davsel
That's a very good video and I agree with everything he says, especially re using a jig vs. free hand with a file. But note that he's using a 12V sharpener in a shop where 120V is available. Why? Those sharpeners don't include transformers so he has to use a 12V battery. It's a silly, inefficient way to go, which is why I've never bought into the 12V sharpener systems. The whole concept is a holdover from the 1950's.
I don't want to raise the hood on my truck and sharpen on the fender when I can file in the field or take the saw to the bench in my shop. Hell, there's no way I'd set a chainsaw on my truck fender to sharpen a chain as the marketers of this system suggest. It's 1950's ridiculous.
I've used the Oregon 12V sharpeners, but without a jig the grind on the chain cutters is not accurate. Accurate filing on the chain cutters is important to efficient sawing. Whatever sharpening system you use, use a jig or you're just pissing in the dark wasting time and money.
Funny, when I worked for the Forest Service we were taught with 2 files and no jig.
Those saws threw 2" curls all day long and we sharpened them every morning.
A little practice and it takes 10 minutes.
This ^^^^
Could you PM me his #. I am up there on a semi-regular basis actuallyQuote:
Originally Posted by buffalobo
Same here. I've been doing it with just a file since I was a kid and it works great. I never used a jig....maybe that's even easier.Quote:
Originally Posted by BPTactical
I was gonna say about the hand sharpening with the right files. My old neighbor was a wood cutting whoremonger and kinda psycho about his saw stuff. He stressed NO MORE THAN THREE STROKES with the file on any tooth, and he insisted always doing it that way. He went up to beetle kill properties and cleaned stuff out all the time and used his stuff hard.
I'm verifiably no Pro at this stuff, but that's what he professed.
I have the file type with the basic guide. Works OK in a pinch but takes practice and a lot of attention to detail.
I also have the Stihl system that runs off of a vehicle battery. Powered it from my Mule battery when I used it. Convenient and works OK...not great but pretty quick and dirty.
I also have one of the Harbor Freight sharpeners. I'm gonna say mine works very well and it's really easy to use. Once you get it set up and dialed in it's very fast. It's what I used to sharpen blades in between cutting sessions in the shop when I had plenty of time.
It's hard to beat a good file system when you're out in the field and need a sharpen. It doesn't take long to learn how to use them if you cut a lot of wood. The more you use it the better you'll get.
Another who has used a file with a guide, and the Oregon 12V sharpener. With how little I use my saws, these work just fine after some practice and attention to detail. The stones make quick work of a dull, abused blade, and is handy when you're in the field (i.e. I didn't take the time to sharpen at home).
Stihl makes a file/guide set for that specific saw. It works wonderful. You can try mine out if you would like. With just a little practice you can go from a chain that's totally trashed to perfectly sharp in about 10 minutes. That's faster than I could drive to some to sharpen it.
Thanks; I keep looking for the old setup my dad had for our chainsaws...there was a built in guide on the sharping rod and it took him less than 5 mins to re-touch up a chain after it hit "dirt". Now to find the right size for my low end Stihl...Quote:
Originally Posted by Zcsdkr
This is the new fangled Stihl sharpener. Works and aligns the blade and the rake. Chain sharpening costs $10-$15 a pop. Three sharpenings pays for the file set. Make sure you get the proper size for your chain.
http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL59.../413529853.jpg
I use an old Husky sharpener. Two 5.5 round files. a flat file and a guide to align files. Throw it in the saw bag and use as needed.