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I have 2007 Dodge 3500 6.7 diesel that is having problems. The check engine light is on and it chugs when pulling away from a stop. The dealer told me the code is for the turbo and I have a 50/50 shot if they clean it or they can replace it. The quoted replacement cost is 10x the cleaning cost. Is the turbo a common issue? Also I can't afford another large repair bill, this is the fourth one in less than two years. I may have to junk it so if anyone know of a place I'm all ears.
The truck is pushing 160k mileage.
Sorry. One of the two major known issues with that motor.
Cleaning it is supposedly an interesting process involving drilling a port and back flushing the whole thing. Supposedly those who delete the emissions get much more life out of their turbos.
Out of curiosity what is the other known issue?
What is the code ? If it is for the actuator cleaning isn't going to help . What happens is the soot from the EGR system builds up and the variable geometry parts in the turbo seize and that kills the actuator . Best case is remove the turbo and clean / rebuild it and replace the actuator . The actuator is stupid expensive and most times a new turbo is cheaper .
Is there any prevention short of emissions delete?
Have a friend with a bone stock 2008 and hate to see him start having troubles - although he does live in Elbert Co.
Nope , EGR kills engines all the manufacturers have issues with it
Around 160k is when our 2007 6.7L emissions system started crapping on itself.
Black smoke, sluggish response, codes thrown, etc
EFIlive, delete with new mrbp exhaust, and runs like new... no smoke & moar power
But I don't remember what codes it was throwing
Turbo cleaning may buy a little time, but eventually the only fix will be new cat & dpf... look up what those cost!
There is a plate that's moves forward and back over the turbine wheel to allow more back pressure and higher boost numbers at lower Rpms it gets carbon build up and sticks the sector shaft and can kill the VGT actuator too.
It's been my understanding that when the dpf and cat age, then this starts to happen- usually around 150k-170k miles.Quote:
Originally Posted by DFBrews
Reading this thread reminded me of this article:
https://fee.org/articles/the-real-sc...ot-volkswagen/
Less of one emission creates more of another emission and all of it makes the engine more inefficient which causes more fuel to be used which is exactly what the environmentalists say they don't want.
I'm still trying to figure out the whole "piss makes a diesel engine cleaner" thing. [Dunno]
Depending where your vehicle is registered and if you have to do emissions, seriously look at the EGR delete kit. They used to be cheap but not sure what they cost now. The install was fairly easy when I did it back in 2011 on a 2007 6.7 Cummins. I'd recommend taking the time to clean the turbo. Also, make sure you are turning on the engine break every time you drive the truck. It greatly helps to reduce the carbon build up that is famous on this engine.
I don't know what the actual code was. I'm just going by the what the dealer said. I was told by them and have read further that cleaning isnt a sure fix and even if it does work it won't last and I'll end up needing a new turbo anyways. I was quoted 5k for turbo replacement and there's no way that's happening so now I have new lawn ornament.
C stone
what the def does is reduce the nox emissions in the exhaust pipe instead of in the engine
to reduce nox you need to have cooler cylinder temps which is done by recirculating some exhaust back into the intake.
now with a system to clean up the nox on the back end higher cylinder temps means higher efficiency and much less egr recirc.
On the 15 liter Cummins 2008-2010 engines recirced up to 25% now with def that number is in the low teens
The early 6.7's will need the turbo cleaned every once in a while unless you delete them. Don't ask in the forum how to delete, some of the mods get a little pissy when that gets discussed vs other "illegal" things that are discussed frequently.
The VGT turbo's get gummy unless you are working the truck most of the time. When I was pulling trailers all the time, mine never had an issue. Started using it as a grocery getter, and it got clogged up and needed cleaned several times (thankfully under warranty).
Since the emissions stuff rusted off, I haven't had a problem, get 22-26MPG (sometimes 18, if I decide to use all the extra ponies all the time), oil stays cleaner longer, etc...
EGR delete's are easy on the early 6.7's. I just made my own plates and bolted them on. I also have an aftermarket intake horn, so that side went away anyway, but an EGR delete could be $10 in steel and an hour or two of effort.
Does that make the engine more efficient? More MPG or more HP per gallon of fuel burned?Quote:
Originally Posted by DFBrews
It seems that the more NOX reduction the more CO2 produced and vice versa. Pick your poison but I would think that burning less fuel is the best route.
No, it doesn't make them more efficient. Sort of apples to oranges, but my Dodge had the DPF/EGR only system, and our Chevy work trucks have the DPF/EGR/DEF system that all new diesels have. The new systems get worse mileage than my Dodge, in factory condition.Quote:
Originally Posted by cstone
The EPA doesn't care about efficiency. They care about exercising their might within their fiefdom.
I would suggest contacting CDC (Colorado Diesel Crew) on Facebook...
They can likely suggest a Diesel mechanic that can give you better options than the dealers can/will.
I can recommend BH Diesel in Colorado Springs, but don't know in Trinidad
I think that was the point in the FEE article. Most of the diesel emissions garbage is the EPA enforcing more California nonsense for the purposes of destroying or controlling the diesel industry. All costs in commercial diesel use is passed on to the consumer. Why would the government care about soaking us for money that most of us don't even think about as another hidden tax?Quote:
Originally Posted by Grant H.
looked like $880 plus $400 core deposit for the turbo on rockauto.com...surely you can find a shop to R&R the turbo for a reasonable price
I found this, some guys claiming unplugging the VGT temporarily got them through until they could afford a permanent fix...
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/07...gt-issues.html
I don't know what shop you are looking at doing the work. I've got a Duramax at M and M in Trinidad right now. In Pueblo they told me I needed a new fuel pump due to low fuel rail pressure. They wanted to do their own diagnosis, some person left an extra rubber gasket on the last time the fuel filter was replaced. I learned my lesson to make sure I got all the extra gaskets out. They are a little on the expensive side, but they have kept both my diesels running good.
Unplugging the actuator derates the engine and it won't make any boost .
A good Diesel mechanic will seem expensive on the surface, but save so much money in the long run that it's worth it!Quote:
Originally Posted by encorehunter
I do a lot of my own work, but BH has nailed it every time I come to them with an issue, and the fix is reasonable (last one was fuel rail pressure relief valve, and about 5-6 other codes- including the dreaded lightning bolt)... replaced the valve, and everything else went away- about $80 out the door.
Be careful with " rebuilt " Holset VGT turbo's . The cost for a replacement actuator wholesale is more that the price that was quoted from Rock Auto . The actuators are the high failure item on these turbo's and the equipment , software , and annual license is over 6k , so most " rebuilders " don't check the function of the actuator with anything other than a DVOM and the actuator may or may not be good .
I will echo 68 in recommending Travis at BH.
If he's close to you, it's worth it. I don't have mechanics do much on my truck, but he and one other have been excellent when I used them.
(The other is Rich Rhoades with R&B Automotive and Diesel in Ault CO).
If you can get away with it, delete it. I deleted my 07' Cummins and it was a whole different machine. I hade to do emissions every two years so I would pull it in the shop and put all the stock junk on, do my emissions then pull it all right back off for another two years. 176,000 miles and never had a problem with anything.