Dillon tips, tricks, and mods. Post them here.

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10-11-2017, 14:34
Tim K

Dillon tips, tricks, and mods. Post them here.

I like my Dillons. A lot. There are many cool things guys do to their Dillon presses to improve one aspect or another. I know a few, but would like to hear what you’re favorite mods are.

I’ll start it off with an easy one.

Whidden floating tool heads. Better, more accurate machining is a plus, but I particularly like the ability to float the sizing and seater dies.

http://www.whiddengunworks.com/produ...n-toolheads-2/
http://i64.tinypic.com/34e4w28.jpg

I liked it so much I bought some roll pins at the hardware store and converted all my stock Dillon heads to floaters.

http://i65.tinypic.com/2hx3yqg.jpg
10-11-2017, 14:49
mattiooo

I've just bought a used 550 so I'm definitely following. What is the advantage to having those dies float?
10-11-2017, 15:22
Tim K

Improved concentricity.
10-11-2017, 15:29
Tim K

Here is one more. I modified my tool heads so they are bolted to the machine, not just being held in by the pins. Theoretically, this should improve seating depth consistency. I can’t tell the difference, but the thinking is sound.

I used #4-40 helicoils in the heads so I didn’t have to drill the press frame. If I had it to do over, I might tap the heads directly for # 6 screws and open up the holes in the frame to clear them.

http://i64.tinypic.com/2v3imw6.jpg
10-11-2017, 15:34
Great-Kazoo

Yet you have the toolhead secured with the Uniquetek conversion?

I've read the pros & cons of either conversion and decided for my use the uniquetek toolhead conversion was ok.
An old tech tip was to put an o-ring under the (RCBS) decapping pin nut, to allow the pin to float for the 1 in who knows how many slightly offset primer holes.

Those look like something one could do with the hornady lock rings

What ever works.
10-11-2017, 15:56
Tim K

I want the toolhead solid vertically and I want the dies to float horizontally.
10-11-2017, 19:45
Robb

You probably all know this but I'll mention it anyway. Google "Brian Enos" they used to have a 550 tips and tricks section with everything you want to know about the 550. I'm sure it's still there.
10-11-2017, 19:53
Great-Kazoo

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tim K

If I had it to do over, I might tap the heads directly for # 6 screws and open up the holes in the frame to clear them.

http://i64.tinypic.com/2v3imw6.jpg

I considered doing that also, till i realized any modification to the frame "might" void the warranty. I do like the UT solid mount for the toolhead..
10-11-2017, 20:37
Hoser

The Whidden floating die toolhead are awesome. I have them on almost all my 550 caliber conversions.

I am partial to the UniqueTec micrometer powder bars. For small charges the Arredondo bar with the UT micrometer is an excellent addition. Most all the powder bars I use often have them. For a set it and forget it, the stock Dillon is fine.

I need to do a new write up on how to tweak Dillon measures so they throw stick powder better. I have a new measure I need to polish up here in a week or so. I will take some pics.
10-12-2017, 09:43
Tim K

I'm battling OAL variations on my 550. I've obviously tried hard mounting the toolhead, and I've ordered some new bearings for the shell plate.

Any other ideas?
10-12-2017, 11:42
sellersm

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hoser

The Whidden floating die toolhead are awesome. I have them on almost all my 550 caliber conversions.

I am partial to the UniqueTec micrometer powder bars. For small charges the Arredondo bar with the UT micrometer is an excellent addition. Most all the powder bars I use often have them. For a set it and forget it, the stock Dillon is fine.

I need to do a new write up on how to tweak Dillon measures so they throw stick powder better. I have a new measure I need to polish up here in a week or so. I will take some pics.

Would love to see that, Hoser! My issue is getting the powder container separated so I can gain access to the bottom/funnel portion! Mine seems to be held with 'unobtanium superglue of the galaxy', or something! I can't get them separated...
10-12-2017, 16:04
Great-Kazoo

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tim K

I'm battling OAL variations on my 550. I've obviously tried hard mounting the toolhead, and I've ordered some new bearings for the shell plate.

Any other ideas?

If it's a continual issue, look at the shellplate bolts. I was getting powder throw and OAL issues until i started taking the press apart. The shellplate bolts were loose enoughto be the issue. Removed and cleaned the threads, some blue lt, then reassembled, problem solved.
10-12-2017, 17:33
Hoser

Quote:

Originally Posted by sellersm

Would love to see that, Hoser! My issue is getting the powder container separated so I can gain access to the bottom/funnel portion! Mine seems to be held with 'unobtanium superglue of the galaxy', or something! I can't get them separated...

If its glued together, it is a really old measure.
10-12-2017, 17:46
sellersm

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hoser

If its glued together, it is a really old measure.

Well I am a really old guy... at least that's what my kids tell me!

Any way to disassemble it?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
10-12-2017, 19:41
Great-Kazoo

Quote:

Originally Posted by sellersm

Well I am a really old guy... at least that's what my kids tell me!

Any way to disassemble it?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cut the plexiglass tube out and go with one of these

http://wardlance.com/
10-14-2017, 09:55
Tim K

I bought this kit to try to address my over all length issues on my 550. I still have issues, but it is improved. I must be addressing the wrong problem. The kit did work as advertised though, allowing me to run the shell plate bolt tighter than before.

http://i68.tinypic.com/293kpqa.jpg
10-16-2017, 08:12
Tim K

So I put that same kit with the bearing and the phenolic ball in my 650. WOW. What a difference. It rotates much more smoothly and accurately. I ran 350 rounds of .223 on it after installation, and I don't think I spilled a single flake of powder.

The effect on the 550 was not as dramatic for reasons I can't explain.
10-26-2017, 16:38
mattiooo

I'm going to give the Uniquetek/Whidden floating die toolhead a try.

I have the Inline Fabrication light on order.

I wish I had learned about the Inline Fabrication Ultramount before I bought the Dillon Strong Mount. Might still do that eventually, but not right now.
10-28-2017, 22:05
Zcsdkr

I have nothing to add about Dillons, but i can assure you that Dan over at Inline Fabrication is a fantastic guy. I think i have everything he makes for my RCBS press.
12-02-2017, 21:23
Irving

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hoser

The Whidden floating die toolhead are awesome. I have them on almost all my 550 caliber conversions.

I am partial to the UniqueTec micrometer powder bars. For small charges the Arredondo bar with the UT micrometer is an excellent addition.

Concerning the Uniquetec powder bar, I thought I had seen you mention repeatability in another thread. I'm under the impression that with the makings on the side, I can find the spot I need for the drop I want for a specific load/powder, write it down, and then quickly return to that setting in the future. If that is correct, is it true that I can spend the money on one UniqueTec powder bar, and have a nice compromise of easy repeatability at a cost much lower than buying an additional powder measure for each tool head?
12-02-2017, 22:11
Great-Kazoo

Quote:

Originally Posted by Irving

Concerning the Uniquetec powder bar, I thought I had seen you mention repeatability in another thread. I'm under the impression that with the makings on the side, I can find the spot I need for the drop I want for a specific load/powder, write it down, and then quickly return to that setting in the future. If that is correct, is it true that I can spend the money on one UniqueTec powder bar, and have a nice compromise of easy repeatability at a cost much lower than buying an additional powder measure for each tool head?

You can but.............. additional powder measures allow you to have them ready to go for each powder used. If not, using one powder measure means you have to verify it's clear of any residual powder from last load. Before switching to a different powder.
12-02-2017, 22:49
Irving

Quote:

Originally Posted by Great-Kazoo

You can but.............. additional powder measures allow you to have them ready to go for each powder used. If not, using one powder measure means you have to verify it's clear of any residual powder from last load. Before switching to a different powder.

That's not an issue because right now each caliber I load has a different powder, so it's part of the change procedure. Kind of like checking the chamber before pulling the trigger to break down a Glock.
02-15-2018, 10:46
Tim K

Update on Whidden tool heads. They are crap. I have three for my 550. All three rock when pushed tight up against the press. My pet machinist took one and recut the top of the tenon dead flat. The high spots were 0.017" higher than the low spots. Crazy bad. The newly flattened toolhead displayed no rock in the press at all. I'm going to have him cut the other two, then we're considering offering the same product but with actual good machining processes used. Sheesh, I hate it when I pay extra for an "improvement" that actually makes something perform worse than the OEM gear.
02-15-2018, 12:09
mattiooo

Quote:

Originally Posted by Great-Kazoo

You can but.............. additional powder measures allow you to have them ready to go for each powder used. If not, using one powder measure means you have to verify it's clear of any residual powder from last load. Before switching to a different powder.

What's the best way to make sure it's clear? I'm assuming there are particles still stuck on the parts I can't see since they stick to the parts I can see.
02-15-2018, 12:14
Great-Kazoo

Quote:

Originally Posted by mattiooo

What's the best way to make sure it's clear? I'm assuming there are particles still stuck on the parts I can't see since they stick to the parts I can see.

I disassemble it, wipe with a dryer sheet. That's after using some low pressure compressed air to clear it out. Some think it's time consuming, but complain about spending money for another powder drop.
02-15-2018, 12:15
mattiooo

Quote:

Originally Posted by mattiooo

I wish I had learned about the Inline Fabrication Ultramount before I bought the Dillon Strong Mount. Might still do that eventually, but not right now.

As predicted, I have ordered the Quick Change Ultramount and a bunch of base plates. My wife was getting annoyed with me doing things at the kitchen table with C-clamps and gear mounted to boards. I just got it, and will set it up this weekend. Got plates for the Dillon, my small vise, the Super Swager, and Lyman case cutter. I was thinking about leaving the Dillon mounted on the Strong Mount and putting the Ultramount next to it, but my reloading bench is just too small.

I got the flush mount version of the Ultramount, though I'm not going to router out this bench. It's just a folding woodworking bench. If I ever convert my garage into the basement I don't have, I will put everything on a larger bench there.
02-16-2018, 20:24
XC700116

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tim K

Update on Whidden tool heads. They are crap. I have three for my 550. All three rock when pushed tight up against the press. My pet machinist took one and recut the top of the tenon dead flat. The high spots were 0.017" higher than the low spots. Crazy bad. The newly flattened toolhead displayed no rock in the press at all. I'm going to have him cut the other two, then we're considering offering the same product but with actual good machining processes used. Sheesh, I hate it when I pay extra for an "improvement" that actually makes something perform worse than the OEM gear.

I don't know WTF is going on @ Whidden lately but the most recent set of dies that I bought and other's I know have had terrible issues. My BRX seater die was really bad, heard others have problems with them as well. I've gotten rid of all of mine and am back to 100% Redding sizing dies and Forster Micrometer seaters. My old Whidden 6X47 dies were great the BRX dies I bought 2 years later were complete crap. If I do decide to move to a 550 for precision reloading, I plan on buying a Uniquetek billet head and then modifying it with Forster lock rings to make the dies float like the Whidden head is designed.
02-17-2018, 16:36
Tim K

I modified all my 550 heads to floating dies, even the stock Dillon head. It's trivially easy to do.

I had issues with my Whidden seater die, too. I'm glad to hear it wasn't just me. I'm done with those monkeys.
02-17-2018, 17:30
Great-Kazoo

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tim K

I modified all my 550 heads to floating dies, even the stock Dillon head. It's trivially easy to do.

I had issues with my Whidden seater die, too. I'm glad to hear it wasn't just me. I'm done with those monkeys.

Is this the one i saw many a year ago (somewhere on line) where you place an o-ring under the lock nut. Between it and the tool head? Or some other low budget but works deal.
02-17-2018, 18:14
XC700116

Quote:

Originally Posted by Great-Kazoo

Is this the one i saw many a year ago (somewhere on line) where you place an o-ring under the lock nut. Between it and the tool head? Or some other low budget but works deal.

Kazoo, All you need to do is get Forster, Hornady (maybe) or Whidden die lock rings, screw a die in and back the ring off a bit and drill a hole through the ring into the head (correct size for a properly sized roll pin), then back it out and drill the hole in the ring out so there's a fair bit of clearance for the roll pin to have some wiggle room in the lock ring and drive a roll pin into the hole in the head sticking up enough for the lock ring to sit on it. Then drop the ring on the pin, screw die into ring and head to appropriate depth and lock down the pinch bolt on the lock ring. The pin in the head holds the ring from turning out when it's locked on the die, but doesn't preload the die against the head threads. This lets the die wobble in the threads a bit but still not move in or out.
02-17-2018, 19:38
KS63

Gotta say I’m a bit disappointed to hear this about Whidden as I was planning on buying a set of dies from him. Has he been contacted and what was his response to these problems?
09-15-2018, 11:52
O2HeN2

Dillon XL 650 improvements

I didn't see a thread dedicated to XL 650 improvements, feel free to consolidate this with an existing thread if I missed it.

I've bought a number of 650 upgrades over the last couple years from snowshooze on Ebay. These are the two latest.

The primer stop is a big help: http://nankoweap.com/boards/primer_feed_cam.mp4

The ring indexer actuator makes thing run a little smoother: http://nankoweap.com/boards/ring_indexer_actuator.mp4

O2
11-14-2018, 08:53
Irving

Bear with me for this pitch. The link is to an article for a USB stick that adds an AI component to a laptop.

https://www.cnet.com/news/faster-new...our-pc-for-99/

One of the examples of use is the following.

Quote:

That speedup is useful for people like Peter Ma, who combined a first-generation Neural Compute Stick with a microscope and laptop to create a device that spots bacterial contaminants in a flow of water. The first prototype scans 3 or 4 frames per second, but the new stick bumps it up to 20, so there's less chance something will flow past unspotted, Ma said.

If this can visually identify things that look out of place, then some smarty pants, high volume reloader could probably figure out a way to use this as a second set of eyes when reloading large batches.
08-21-2019, 11:13
Tim K

The 750 discussion triggered my thinking on this. I have a 550, 650, and 1050. My only gripe with the 1050 is that I find the ergonomics of the bullet feeding hand to be awkward. The finished cartridge container forces me to hold my left hand and arm in an uncomfortable position. I find I prefer the position on the 650 much better.

Anyone done anything about adding a support for the left hand or relocating the finished cartridge bin on a 1050?
08-21-2019, 11:19
Hoser

I added a bulletfeeder to my 1050s.

Before then I placed the bullet on top of the case as it moved towards the seat station.

I also added the spill stop button. Makes the case index much smoother.

https://reloadinginnovations.com/pro...illon-650-1050
08-21-2019, 11:33
Tim K

That spill stop deal looks good. I'll be ordering some for the 1050 and 650.

Any issues setting up the bullet feeder? I'd like one, I just have always assumed they weren't reliable.
08-21-2019, 12:02
Hoser

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tim K

That spill stop deal looks good. I'll be ordering some for the 1050 and 650.

Any issues setting up the bullet feeder? I'd like one, I just have always assumed they weren't reliable.

The Mr Bulletfeeder is awesome and well worth the cost. Swing by and take a peek.
04-23-2021, 14:57
Hoser

So my 1050s and 1100s are bolted directly to my bench, which is basically kitchen countertop that I reinforced.

I noticed that after time the bolts that hold them down had loosened up a touch. After snugging them up I realized that I was just compressing the wood. So I decided to come up with a way to help spread out the pressure.

This is a .5 inch thick plate with a bunch of holes. The 6 countersunk holes got 1/4x20 bolts welded into place and then ground smooth. They mount the plate to the bench. The non-countersunk holes have bolts coming up from the bottom that mount the press to the plate. The square hole is for the power cords that run the casefeeder, bulletfeeder and trimmer. All those cords got a little tight in there so I changed out the square tube for a rectangle one. Plenty of room now.

The clear tube is for spent primers. It goes through the top of the bench and into a trash can inside the cabinets.

https://i.imgur.com/AvlznxV.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/LpJsVtb.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/PAuWjhc.jpg
04-24-2022, 10:17
Tim K

My 1050 indexed so forcefully it would spray TAC everywhere when loading.223. I tried some commercially available solutions, but they were marginal improvements.

Today I decided to try to slick it up.

Here?s a pic of the bottom of the shell plate before any polishing.

https://i.imgur.com/Nfkr7UW.jpg

I used a cratex bit in the Dremel and first polished up the bottom radius.

https://i.imgur.com/ie7LZfg.jpg

Then I polished up the area where the detent ball rubs on it.

https://i.imgur.com/p4l4Xgq.jpg

Just moving the ball around the path holding it in my hands it felt much smoother.

Finally, I cut a coil off the spring under the ball and then greased it up.

The results were amazing! It?s super smooth now, and the case barely moves when the shell plate snicks into place. I loaded up 200 rounds to test it, and had no powder come out of the cases that I could see. Totally worth the hour I spent.

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