Trailer towing question: WD or sway control hitch?

We have been pulling trailers now for about 6 years. Got our first little home built teardrop in 2012, used it for 3 years and then moved up to a slightly larger travel trailer (T@B) that weighed about 2000lbs fully loaded. We've always used a standard Class III hitch receiver, first on my 1999 4runner, then on an 07 4runner and finally on my current 2004 Suburban (1500 4x4, 5.3 V8 & 4 speed auto.)

Just yesterday we picked up our newest travel trailer, a 2018 R-Pod 179. This trailer has an unloaded weight of around 2800 according to the manufacturer, and by the time you add water and our usual equipment I'm guessing 3500 will be what we're pulling (GVWR is about 3700) , making it by far the heaviest trailer we've ever pulled.

Bringing it home yesterday it did OK but the rear of my Suburban sagged noticeably and we certainly felt every little dip in the road. I do have a set of air bags to go inside my coil springs but I am wondering if I need to invest in a weight distributing or sway control hitch. The people we bought it from had a sway control hitch and they pulled with a half ton Chevy 4x4 as well.

So just looking to see, I'm sure many of you probably pull similar trailers or bigger, what kind of hitches do you have? Seems to me my options are WD with sway control, or sway control only without WD, is that right? My Suburban is supposed to be rated to tow at least 6,000lbs, at least that's what the manual says and according to the RPO codes in the glove box my truck does have the towing package which includes the trans temp cooler and the 145a alternator.

Should point out that while the Suburban is old, I put in an all new suspension in 2016. New Z71 coil springs in the rear, Bilstein 5100 shocks all around and lift keys in the front. No spacers in the rear as I didn't think they were neccessary.

ummmmmmmm something is wrong if you are having issues with a 4000lb trailer on a Suburban.

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Originally Posted by JohnTRourke

ummmmmmmm something is wrong if you are having issues with a 4000lb trailer on a Suburban.

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No issues other than the rear end sagging more than I'd like. I'm just wondering if I need to invest in a WD hitch for a trailer of this weight. I didn't think I'd need a WD hitch until I got close to 5000lbs.
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Hell the truck itself weighs probably 6000lbs fully loaded.

If the rear springs are good, I'd go with the air springs. I'ves used them in several tow vehicles and they work well and the ride is nice.

I run an WD hitch and air bags to fine tune the trailer / truck. Adjust level with air bags when the WD bars were at optimal position and driving characteristics were perfect.
Just switched to a smaller and shorter trailer so I don't think the WD hitch was worth adding. Pulled it from Douglas GA last month and it was fine, no high winds or anything so I might need one later.

How long is your trailer? Think of it as a sail being pushed around.

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Originally Posted by Blowby

I run an WD hitch and air bags to fine tune the trailer / truck. Adjust level with air bags when the WD bars were at optimal position and driving characteristics were perfect.
Just switched to a smaller and shorter trailer so I don't think the WD hitch was worth adding. Pulled it from Douglas GA last month and it was fine, no high winds or anything so I might need one later.

How long is your trailer? Think of it as a sail being pushed around.

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It's about 20'.

This isn't ours but ours looks just like it:

Attachment 73334

Whatever you do, add another transmission cooler, or replace with a 28,000lb cooler. Just my .o2 cents

You can do a WD hitch that incorporates sway control, or begin with a WD hitch alone and add the sway control later if desired.

I'm towing a 37'+ TT with my Excursion. I use an Equal-i-zer Weight Distribution System w/ 4-Point Sway Control. I wouldn't rave about it's performance, but we've traveled safely across the country and around Colorado extensively using it. Even with a properly sized (+ properly set up) hitch and new 3/4 leaf springs the EX sagged more than I liked so I added air bags to level it out. So far, so good. I'm thinking that a Hensley hitch might be in my future, but the cost is crazy.

Our previous TT was smaller and we used a Reese round bar WD hitch. After several trips I added a friction sway control kit to it. The added sway control worked well in this application. For the smaller TT you have I think this is adequate.

You shouldn't need a WD hitch setup for that trailer, but it wouldn't hurt.

That said, if you do go WD, I've been very happy with this 6K Fastway I used for my boat (3800#) behind my fiver. Mostly just for the sway control, so I had it loaded about as light as I could just to get friction on the bars for sway control and it helped with sway and the vertical snake. https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Dist...2-00-0600.html

It's a near knock-off of the Equal-i-zer, but the bars are way easier to remove.

I got lucky and found one on CL for $75 when I was looking.

DON'T buy anything with chains, ugh, and they're not surge brake compatible.

What's the tongue weight?
What did you have loaded in the Burb?
Do you have oversize, spongey tires?
Did you run the tire pressure up some for towing?

Sounds more like a tongue weight issue to me. The coil springs in the back of my 6.0L Yukon are really soft with an anemic spring rate, and I doubt the Z71s are much better. Mine can pull well, but tongue weight kills it so I use my truck for heavy (tongue weight) trailers. I would install your airbag helpers first and go from there. If you don't have a trans temp gauge, you should get one if you plan to run it In the mountains. The weight of the trailer your running isn't that big of a deal for your suburban if you fix your spring rate issue. I definitely prefer double axle trailers vs the single ones from a stability perspective so you might like the sway control on it since it looks like a single in the pic you sent; personally, it wouldn't bother me at all with that suburban/trailer as-is if you install the airbags. However, just remember that single axle boxy trailers can get a little squirrelly on a winding road if you're not careful. Does the trailer have brakes? How are the ones in your Suburban?

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Originally Posted by MED

Sounds more like a tongue weight issue to me.

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^This, for sure. You should check the tongue weight. That trailer looks like it could have a tongue weight that's higher than you'd think because the axle is fairly far back.

I use a Fastway e2 WD with sway control with my 30ft, 5500lb travel trailer and have been happy with it.

Keep in mind, the chain style WD hitches are a pain, require add on's for sway control and must often be disconnected when backing. The bar style WD hitches offer WD and sway control in one and don't need to be disconnected when backing. Also, with some of the bar style WD hitches (like 4-point styles) some bars maybe harder to remove than others. With the e2 hitch (a 2 -point style), the bars can easily be removed from the hitch itself...no pins or loose parts...making it easier to handle the hitch. If you want sway control, the 2-point style should be plenty for your trailer IMO.

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Originally Posted by brutal

That said, if you do go WD, I've been very happy with this 6K Fastway ....It's a near knock-off of the Equal-i-zer, but the bars are way easier to remove.

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I hope they are close. They are both made by the same company. The Fastway E2 is the economy line of the Equalizer hitch.

Fastway Trailer Products – Progress Mfg. Inc.
353 South 1100 West
Provo, UT 84601

Equal-i-zer Hitch/Progress Mfg World Headquarters
353 South 1100 West
Provo, UT 84601
Phone: (800) 478-5578

Both are great. Any WD will help you with the dropping of the back of the truck. A lot of times people forget and load up the back of the truck as well greatly decreasing the rear ride height in addition to the trailer. Sounds like your are a great candidate for WD and suspension upgrade.

Have you looked at Active suspension from Roadmaster. It only works when you have a load and doesn't effect the unloaded truck ride with no air bags to leak or puncture.
I recommend looking into the Roadmaster Active Suspension instead of airbags. If you want more clarification on their system give them a call, they are great to work with.
https://activesuspension.com/

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Originally Posted by hollohas

... the chain style WD hitches are a pain, require add on's for sway control and must often be disconnected when backing.

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Trying to figure out where this rumor started(Common in the industry and internet)... If you can tow forward in a turn you can back with any WD set up including chains.

Sorry, I've been in the trailer, towing industry for over 20 years and I get sick of that rumor. Never seen one that needed to be disconnected.

Fastway E2 is the way to go. The one with the square bars. Used the chain style for the past 10 yrs and just recently switched to the fastway when we got a bigger travel trailer. The fastway was highly recommended by a trailer expert in castle rock. And was not a dealer. Much much better towing and easier.

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Originally Posted by Colorado Osprey

Trying to figure out where this rumor started(Common in the industry and internet)... If you can tow forward in a turn you can back with any WD set up including chains.

Sorry, I've been in the trailer, towing industry for over 20 years and I get sick of that rumor. Never seen one that needed to be disconnected.

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Fair enough. Some manufacturers recommend it.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ccc4114667.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...203ec5884f.jpg

I went with a Hensley hitch on my 28 foot travel trailer. I feel it probably saved my truck/family a few times. It is the sway and wd hitch mentioned a few post back. Pricey but is rock solid. Levels the trailer perfectly on my old f 150 without the hd tow package. Pretty amazing how it got rid of the squat.

Just watch your knees or shins when popping the bars off.

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Originally Posted by brutal

You shouldn't need a WD hitch setup for that trailer, but it wouldn't hurt.

That said, if you do go WD, I've been very happy with this 6K Fastway I used for my boat (3800#) behind my fiver. Mostly just for the sway control, so I had it loaded about as light as I could just to get friction on the bars for sway control and it helped with sway and the vertical snake. https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Dist...2-00-0600.html

It's a near knock-off of the Equal-i-zer, but the bars are way easier to remove.

I got lucky and found one on CL for $75 when I was looking.

DON'T buy anything with chains, ugh, and they're not surge brake compatible.

What's the tongue weight?
What did you have loaded in the Burb?
Do you have oversize, spongey tires?
Did you run the tire pressure up some for towing?

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Brutal and others have provided great info here. I used the stabilizers with chains on a near 5K lb Terry which was much bigger than yours, and I loved them. I also don't see why you'd need them with the trailer you pictured....unless it's loaded too heavy on the tongue, or, the Burb was too ass heavy when it was all hooked up and ready to head out...or both were happening.

If you do get the bars, do not take TOO much weight off the tongue with the bars....if you're pivoted up in the hitch area, you will have a really squirrelly problem in a hurry. A messy one too.

WD all the way. Another cause of sagging could be that your hitch is too low compare to the trailer tongue. I had this happen on my last camper, because they decided to add a lift kit and off road style tires on alk their campers wuthout changing the specs...

A wd is a great investement. Make towing a lot easier and safer.

I don’t have much to add, but I sure like those 179s. We looked hard at the Jayco Hummingbird version of the 178 (wife preference), but the 179 sure had a cool floor plan.

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Originally Posted by ruthabagah

Another cause of sagging could be that your hitch is too low compare to the trailer tongue. I had this happen on my last camper, because they decided to add a lift kit and off road style tires on alk their campers wuthout changing the specs...

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Especially with the hood river packages. I ended up with another “lifted” camper (which is lighter), but I had to flip the receiver for this same reason and I added rubber (non-air) load springs. Would like a WD myself, although I’m really just trying not to buy a bigger truck!

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Originally Posted by Jeffrey Lebowski

I don’t have much to add, but I sure like those 179s. We looked hard at the Jayco Hummingbird version of the 178 (wife preference), but the 179 sure had a cool floor plan.



Especially with the hood river packages. I ended up with another “lifted” camper (which is lighter), but I had to flip the receiver for this same reason and I added rubber (non-air) load springs. Would like a WD myself, although I’m really just trying not to buy a bigger truck!

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We are coming from a T@B Clamshell that had an outdoor kitchen. Since we loved our big outdoor kitchen we went with the R-Pod that had a big kitchen in the back. A big plus for us is a separate eating and sleeping area (on the T@B it was either/or but not both, so most of the time we just ended up leaving the bed in place and eating outside) and the indoor wet bath.

We liked the 178 as well but very little counter space compared to the 179.

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Originally Posted by brutal

You shouldn't need a WD hitch setup for that trailer, but it wouldn't hurt.

That said, if you do go WD, I've been very happy with this 6K Fastway I used for my boat (3800#) behind my fiver. Mostly just for the sway control, so I had it loaded about as light as I could just to get friction on the bars for sway control and it helped with sway and the vertical snake. https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Dist...2-00-0600.html

It's a near knock-off of the Equal-i-zer, but the bars are way easier to remove.

I got lucky and found one on CL for $75 when I was looking.

DON'T buy anything with chains, ugh, and they're not surge brake compatible.

What's the tongue weight?
What did you have loaded in the Burb?
Do you have oversize, spongey tires?
Did you run the tire pressure up some for towing?

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The Fastway 6k model is exactly the one I was looking at.

As far as tongue weight, we haven't weighed it (just got the trailer, literally, yesterday afternoon) but given that the trailer weight is close to 3000 I'd guess 300 - 450 (10 - 15%)

The 'Burb does have slightly oversize tires (285/75/16, nominal height about 33".) Stock size was 265/70/17. About 2" of lift with Z71 springs in the rear.

Our first camping trip is to Bear Creek in a couple of months so I may see how it does on just the air bags for now.

Thanks for the input, everybody!

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Originally Posted by Martinjmpr

We are coming from a T@B Clamshell that had an outdoor kitchen. Since we loved our big outdoor kitchen we went with the R-Pod that had a big kitchen in the back. A big plus for us is a separate eating and sleeping area (on the T@B it was either/or but not both, so most of the time we just ended up leaving the bed in place and eating outside) and the indoor wet bath.

We liked the 178 as well but very little counter space compared to the 179.

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Indeed. That’s what I liked about it - the kitchen. And that little mini-dinette area. I’m not really the cook, although for camping I do my share. In the end, with a young kid (and 2 dogs), dual beds opposite sort of became the necessity. Fitting it in my garage became a huge want thus pushing out the R-Pod / Hummingbird. But I am trying to talk a buddy into one!


Congrats. Cool camper for sure!

If you can get a accurate tongue weight that would be good. I added the Air Lift in coil bags and love them. Coils just dont load the same as leafs. My Ram is the softest riding truck I've been in, but it sags with very little weight. I pull a heavier pop up at it made a ton of difference.

Just in case anyone reading this thread is going to be in the market for a used travel trailer, I will be selling our 19 foot Frontier Explorer in about a month. Just picked up a toy hauler and am going to sell the Frontier for way below it's book value.!!!! But only to Forum Members here and on ADVrider. Just some prelim info. It has 1 bunk, 1 master bed, 1 couch that flips into a bed and a dinette bench that turns into a bed. Bathroom with shower and tub. Microwave, stove, oven, new awning, lots of storage. Just a teaser.

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Originally Posted by hollohas

Fair enough. Some manufacturers recommend it.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ccc4114667.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...203ec5884f.jpg

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I agree, some sway controls will need to removed before backing up but not the WD hitch as stated above.

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Originally Posted by Jeffrey Lebowski

Indeed. That’s what I liked about it - the kitchen. And that little mini-dinette area. I’m not really the cook, although for camping I do my share. In the end, with a young kid (and 2 dogs), dual beds opposite sort of became the necessity. Fitting it in my garage became a huge want thus pushing out the R-Pod / Hummingbird. But I am trying to talk a buddy into one!


Congrats. Cool camper for sure!

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We looked at the "copies" too (Jayco Hummingbird, Keystone Bullet, Winnebago Winnie/Minnie drop, etc.) There are TONS of other trailers out there that copy the R-Pod style.

Funny story: Back in about 2012, a company called MPG made a copy of the then-relatively-new R-Pod (R-pods originated in 2009.) Forest River, the company that made R-Pods, sued MPG for trademark and trade-dress infringement and MPG backed down and stopped making the MPG camper (I think they may still be in business but they make bigger campers now.) I guess MPG was a relatively small company and they didn't have the power to withstand Forest River's army of lawyers.

Fast forward to 2015. Winnebago introduces the Winnie Drop (now called the Minnie Drop for some reason.) Forest River threatens to sue Winnebago, but unlike MPG, which folded like a cheap suit, Winnebago said "Bring it on, BITCH!" Forest River realized they didn't stand a chance in hell of winning so they backed off and as soon as they did, the floodgates opened: Immediately, Jayco, Keystone, StarCraft and others started making straight-up copies of the R-pod.

Having said that, we decided to stick with R-pod for the reason that they have a huge cult following which means there is a lot of "institutional knowledge" out there for the R-Pods where there really isn't for the copies (they're too new.) My thought was that if I have an issue - say the refrigerator doesn't work or I'm getting an odd leak from the plumbing - I can tap into the "hive mind" of the R-pod owner's groups (several of them on Facebook) and most likely I'll be able to get the info I need. With the copies I wasn't sure of that. The other thing was, there wasn't really any price advantage in going with the copies over the "original." They all sit in the $16,000 - $20,000 range (new.) The newer R-pods also have some nice features that the "copies" don't have like the flush sink and flush cook top.

For anyone considering using bags vs a WD for bumper pull, this is a good video to watch.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XBZu39pQ8Gg

I use bags on my truck, but pull a fiver.

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Originally Posted by Martinjmpr

Having said that, we decided to stick with R-pod for the reason that they have a huge cult following which means there is a lot of "institutional knowledge" out there for the R-Pods where there really isn't for the copies (they're too new.) My thought was that if I have an issue - say the refrigerator doesn't work or I'm getting an odd leak from the plumbing - I can tap into the "hive mind" of the R-pod owner's groups (several of them on Facebook) and most likely I'll be able to get the info I need. With the copies I wasn't sure of that. The other thing was, there wasn't really any price advantage in going with the copies over the "original." They all sit in the $16,000 - $20,000 range (new.) The newer R-pods also have some nice features that the "copies" don't have like the flush sink and flush cook top.

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Solid reasoning. I should say, my wife preferred the Rpod, I preferred the Jayco. Neither preferred the drop. Mostly I liked what Jayco did to semi-seal the underside. Now after towing mine in a snowstorm, I like the idea even more.

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Originally Posted by Martinjmpr

As far as tongue weight, we haven't weighed it (just got the trailer, literally, yesterday afternoon) but given that the trailer weight is close to 3000 I'd guess 300 - 450 (10 - 15%)

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Late to the game but I've learned that you cannot trust the manufacturer's specs with regard to weight. Also most travel trailers are well above 10% tongue weight, more like 15-20%. You really need to take it to a CAT scale, not only to get the real weight of the (loaded) trailer, but also to ensure you've got the weight distribution dialed in correctly.

This trailer is pretty light so you're probably fine but I still recommend checking out your truck's payload rating (on a sticker in the driver's door jamb). Depending on how many people and how much stuff you cram in there for a trip (plus the tongue weight and hitch weight) you could exceed it.

Congrats on the camper! I hope you enjoy the heck out of it.

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Originally Posted by Rumline

Late to the game but I've learned that you cannot trust the manufacturer's specs with regard to weight. Also most travel trailers are well above 10% tongue weight, more like 15-20%. You really need to take it to a CAT scale, not only to get the real weight of the (loaded) trailer, but also to ensure you've got the weight distribution dialed in correctly.

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This. Don't go by common thumb rules. RV makers put more time into fancy layouts than they do properly locating the axles, or they use the same frame/axle systems for different RVs and the weights are all screwy.

The WD hitch is a huge change in towing behavior. The bumper droop at bumps is greatly diminished and feels much more solid on the road. Don't get too anal on the friction bar sway control. The WD system is sway resistant without it due to the spring bar friction. Most people I know with the WD don't use the sway control. I have one that came with my hitch (craigslist purchase) and it has never been on the truck. Try towing without it first. I think you will be surprised how much the WD alone improves the feel.

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Originally Posted by clodhopper

This. Don't go by common thumb rules. RV makers put more time into fancy layouts than they do properly locating the axles, or they use the same frame/axle systems for different RVs and the weights are all screwy.

The WD hitch is a huge change in towing behavior. The bumper droop at bumps is greatly diminished and feels much more solid on the road. Don't get too anal on the friction bar sway control. The WD system is sway resistant without it due to the spring bar friction. Most people I know with the WD don't use the sway control. I have one that came with my hitch (craigslist purchase) and it has never been on the truck. Try towing without it first. I think you will be surprised how much the WD alone improves the feel.

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I presume you're talking about the shock-absorber looking thing? Yeah, I wasn't planning on using one. The WD setup that has been recommended (the 6,000lb E2) supposedly has sway control characteristics due to the square bars that provide some friction and keep the trailer from wiggling around too much.

As I said above, with a Suburban I'm not as worried as I would be if I had a smaller tow vehicle, but I think just for the peace-of-mind I'm going to go ahead and get the WD system. Depending on how that works I may or may not use the air bags.

Well, the WD is a lot cheaper than bags. Plus you can move the WD to another vehicle (a buddy or another family member) if you need to tow with that. My RV is just over the tongue rating for my F250 which is why I got the WD originally, but after using it, I pretty much use it for all bumper pulls. If the trailer is really light or empty, I may not put the spring bars on, but I will with a load. It moves some of the tongue load to your front axle by imparting a rotational force at the bumper. It does handle different on bumpy roads, but it feels more stable. Certainly feels less likely the trailer will try and pass you up.